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alternator concerns

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=116802
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 7:29 AM


Topic: alternator concerns

Posted By: dertitan2
Subject: alternator concerns
Date Posted: October 08, 2009 at 11:15 AM

2009 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L Base, Kenwood KDC-X693 HU, Alpine PDX 4.100 for Front & Rears, Alpine PDX 1.600 for Sub, JL Audio 12" W6v2 Sub in Sealed Pro Wedge Box, Alpine SPX-13Pro 5 1/4" component speakers Front, Alpine SPR-13C 2-Way Coax Speakers Rear.

The alternator on my car is rated at 80 Amps.  Should I just go ahead and plan on replacing with a HO Alternator, or as long as I play my system normally will I be just fine??

If I need to replace, what size Alternator should I have installed?

P.S. I have not installed this system yet, I am just trying to identify any potential issues.




Replies:

Posted By: oerllikon
Date Posted: October 08, 2009 at 4:56 PM
Hey, i had an 80 in my escort. I was running a txi 6006, and my headlights were still dimming like crazy. I would wait until this one dies, and then go for a HO. It wouldnt hurt trying the big 3 if you havent already




Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: October 08, 2009 at 5:02 PM
do the big three now because your gonna have to did it anyway once you replace the alternator. might as well.




Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: October 12, 2009 at 3:52 PM

Have the big 3 done. Are yiou having current issues now? 





Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: October 13, 2009 at 12:53 AM
oerllikon wrote:

I would wait until this one dies, and then go for a HO.


This is EXCEPTIONALLY bad advice! Have you ever noticed that when your voltage gets low, your amps run hotter? Ohm's Law, baby! The amps are trying to do the same amount of work on lower voltage. This means they have to pull more current, causing additional heat build-up. This SAME phenomenon happens to all of the other electronics in the car, i.e. that $1200 (plus installation and programming if necessary) ECU under your passenger's seat... THESE devices have just enough heat sinking on them to dissipate NORMAL amounts of power... Try to remove more heat, and it can't happen, and the device FRIES!

If your lights are dimming, you need to address your alternator NOW!

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: hot rodder
Date Posted: October 13, 2009 at 4:12 PM

Nice system. I have nearly the identical set up in my 1968 Chevy running a 63 amp alternator on a 396 big block. The amp draw calculator says you will draw @ 75 amps with that wattage. I run 2 600 amp batteries (front and rear) with 1/0 awg Memphis cables between and have no problems. I have run the system cranked for nearly 5 hours with the car off and the car starts right up. You have fuel injection and electric fuel pump though which draw a little more operating amps than an old car. You need more 'stored' amperage supply. Go with another battery if you can before stressing over another alternator.
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My Project:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~115234~PN~1





Posted By: boxhead78
Date Posted: October 18, 2009 at 11:29 PM
if you are pushing that much power. i know you should have a capacitor on that system

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boxead78





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