4 12 pioneer champion series subs
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=117464
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 6:48 AM
Topic: 4 12 pioneer champion series subs
Posted By: the_jeweler
Subject: 4 12 pioneer champion series subs
Date Posted: November 04, 2009 at 12:31 PM
I have 4 pioneer premier champion series subs
I have 2 questions that have just been eating away at me lol. I was wondering 1. should i go with a sealed or custom vented box and 2. I have 2 Kenwood 1800 watt amps, should i run an additional battery or a high powered capacitor? HELP IS NEEDED!
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Life is what u make of it so make the best of it
Replies:
Posted By: boogeyman
Date Posted: November 04, 2009 at 12:57 PM
What type vehicle is this going in?
Posted By: brgrubbs24
Date Posted: November 04, 2009 at 1:15 PM
if you want to be loud and have enough room go vented,but if you are doing 4 of them you are going to need alot of room to build that box to spec....from what i understand a cap is only good for sound quaity setups,its made to loose voltage and bring it back quick.....but i could be wrong....but with that much power just put a yellow top under the hood and some kind of dry cell in the trunk....and you can also do a cap just make shure you put it in after the battery or you will beat the purpose of it......good luck...should be loud
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MECP BASIC
Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: November 04, 2009 at 2:21 PM
1. depends on the overall sound you are looking for and space available.
2. If that is RMS rating you are looking at more than just a battery or cap. You are looking at a high output alt and big 3 at a min.
Need to know the vehicle to help any further. ------------- 
Posted By: the_jeweler
Date Posted: November 12, 2009 at 11:16 AM
they're going in a 2002 grand marquis. I have a vented box, but the vent is actually facing towards the tail of the car so its like the box isnt breathing enough. i only have 1 of the amps hooked up now and a 2 farad hybrid rf cap. it sounds pretty good but being an audio nut i want it louder and wit more "pressure". also, what do you all think of power acoustik amps? i was looking at the 4000 watt bamf. pros and cons of the amp?
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Life is what u make of it so make the best of it
Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: November 12, 2009 at 2:02 PM
Make sure the port has as much room to a wall as the opening is. So if say your port is 3 inches wide. You need to have at least 3 inches from it to a solid surface, like a trunk wall.
As for the power acoustik amp.
PROS: PRICE
CONS: It is cheap. In every since of the word.
There are much better amps out there.
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Posted By: the_jeweler
Date Posted: November 17, 2009 at 10:11 AM
 so one more thing. Now i have some one wanting to buy my pioneers, what would be an adequate replacement? i was looking @ 4 rf p3's, 4 kicker comp vrs, 4 ma audio ma122d4 subs. any suggestions?[B/]
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Life is what u make of it so make the best of it
Posted By: blackcivichatch
Date Posted: November 17, 2009 at 11:08 AM
personally i disagree with all of those. But if ALL you want is to be loud (no good SQ) Go with the kickers.
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UNLABELED Custom Car Club President
Posted By: the_jeweler
Date Posted: November 19, 2009 at 9:32 AM
well what would you suggest? because i want good spl without losing too much sq.
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Life is what u make of it so make the best of it
Posted By: blackcivichatch
Date Posted: November 19, 2009 at 11:30 AM
It really depends on what how much you have to spent.
Some good brands in my opinion are Fi, Alpine, DD, Sundown audio, Cerwin Vega, RE. Thats jus my personal opinion. Each of those brands have products with a range of prices to fit your budget.
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UNLABELED Custom Car Club President
Posted By: the_jeweler
Date Posted: December 17, 2009 at 8:33 AM
OK, so i didnt sell my subs again. But now I've run into a slightly larger problem. while hooking up 2 kenwood 1800 watt amps, they would cut out. i know i had the wiring correct, plus my capacitor has enough power to run both of the amps, but yet and still they kept cutting off. plus i had 2 subs wired down to 1 ohm per amp, but i dont think it had anything to do with it because when i unassed 1 amp, the other worked perfectly fine. So, any suggestions as to what i can do to make this 2 amp system work, or is there 1 strong amp that can give me good spl without sacrificing too much sq? and is the Alpine mrp-1000 one that will do the trick?
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Life is what u make of it so make the best of it
Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: December 17, 2009 at 1:47 PM
j.reed wrote:
2. If that is RMS rating you are looking at more than just a battery or cap. You are looking at a high output alt and big 3 at minumum
That cap wont do anything for you, unless you like the cool lights on it. The Alt is where all your power comes from. Get a voltmeter and start checking voltage drop. You are most likely not giving the amps enough voltage to keep running if the subs are wired for the correct ohm load.
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Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: December 17, 2009 at 4:24 PM
1: What is "unassed"? Seriously...
2: 1800W + 1800W = 3600W (shyah, right... Kenwood, dude...)
3600W / 14.4V = 250A
Do you have a 300+ amp alternator? I didn't think so. The reason your amps are turning off is because you are pulling far more power than your car's POWER SOURCE (aka "alternator" - you've heard of them, I'm sure...) can provide. This causes severe voltage drops, and until the alternator can recharge the battery enough to bring the voltage back up to where the amps can turn on, there ya have your answer.
Your amps, running WFO, are gonna want to pull up to 250A BY THEMSELVES, now add in (as suggested) the lights, your car's ECU, AC, turn signal and brake lights, rear defroster, wipers... You get the idea... I hope.
Think the cap is helping? It isn't. (Although is is NOT hindering as bad as everybody else says it is, it is most decidedly NOT helping your issue in the slightest...) The cap and battery DO NOTHING BUT FILTER - the battery is (first and foremost) a voltage filter, and the cap is a current filter. The battery is there to start the car, and nothing more. The alternator provides all of the electrical power for all of the electrical devices in your car. Address it. Now.
To find out how much more alternator you need, you need to know your OEM alternator's capacity. Multiply that by roughly 80% to know how much the manufacturer thinks your car will pull on a regular basis. Now add that number to the NEW amplifier load (250A); now you know about how much alternator you need.
Example:
OEM alternator 100A
100A * 80% = 80A
80A OEM load design + 250A new accessory load = 330A
Additionally, for a 330A alternator, you are going to need to upgrade ALL of your underhood wiring to at least a 1/0. Regarding underhood wiring, bigger is better, in my opinion, with no exception to that rule.
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: armymp90099
Date Posted: December 20, 2009 at 8:46 PM
I agree with haemphyst. Those amps are way overrated. As far as your question with the Alpine MRP1000 I own it and its a great amp. The only thing I dont like about it is the price, but you get what you pay for. The amp eats power and you actually should run 1/0 GA wire to a distribution block then run a foot or 2 with 4GA wire to the amp. Just a suggestion thats what I did and it worked perfectly.
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