I just bought 2 Alpine SWR-1222D from Futureshop and have a MRP-M1000 amp and Stinger SPC5010 capacitor on order (should be arriving soon) I'm trying to figure out what kind of box I want to go with them, do I go sealed? do I go ported? what about the sub mounting (inverted vs. normal).. what are the benefits of each? I'm still quite new this whole thing all I know is I like it loud so I'm hoping to get some input from all of you. Does anyone have this same setup? I'm getting anxious for the amp to come so in the meantime I'm going to build myself a box and get that all out of the way so when the amp and cap come I can "plug and play"
Thanks for any input!
NG
What type of sound are you looking for from your Type-Rs? In most cases I would recommend a ported enclosure for the Type-Rs as they perform better in them. I would suggest around 2 cubic foot per chamber tuned to around 32-34Hz. However, that is just a general recommendation. It may change depending on what type of sound you are looking at getting from your subs. By what type of sound I mean do you want loud bass, sound quality, or a mix of these. With these details we can help you out with the specs further.
Inverting a sub alone will not change the way it sounds but it will just change the internal volume of the enclosure. So you could change the sound because of the difference in internal volume but actually inverting the sub itself won't make a difference. By inverting the sub you will add internal volume to the enclosure because now the sub isn't taking up some of the space. There really isn't a reason to do so unless you think it is cool to have the magnets facing out or there are some situations where you may have space issues and need to invert the subs.
You should have been here earlier so we could have warned you not to waste your money on a cap....
I think overall I'd like to have a balanced mix of loud/clear. From everyone I've asked they all seem to tell me the same, ported is the way to go with Type-R's. The cap is no big deal I'm sure I could sell it to someone around here.. I just threw it on my order because I've heard mixed reviews on them and was just going to add it into my system as a "might help, but if not, now I know" type of thing.. I'm still fairly new to car audio and my headlights dim quite a bit (almost like strobe lights) even at a moderate volume. The weird thing though is that it doesn't happen all that much with the cold weather we've been having recently in Ontario. Does this mean I should look into upgrading my alternator? This is my first "big" system (compared to just having a p.o.s 10" w/ cheap amp and stock speakers like I used to run) so I want to do it right this time.
Anyways thanks again for any input!
NG
Light dimming is your warning its time to upgrade the electrical system. An alt is where your power comes from. So yes its time to upgrade along with the big 3. Adding caps or batteries with an already taxed electrical system is just hurting more than anything. The reason for this is now the already taxed alt has even more work put on it by charging even more things.
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Do the "big 3" first like recommended above. If you are still having significant dimming then you may need to upgrade your alternator.
whiterob wrote:
Do the "big 3" first like recommended above. If you are still having significant dimming then you may need to upgrade your alternator.
Doing the big 3 now would not be a bad thing. I simply added the alt as well because you will most likely need it with your description of it dimming even at moderate levels. But as for the advice of doing the big 3 now, you should. It won't make you any extra work and will help. Even if and you probably will, need a high output alt. You will need the big 3 done for the new alt anyways.
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