amp wiring

im gonna b grabbin 3 jl10w7 or 3 jl8w7...its gonna depend on space...if i hook them up 2 a hifonics bxi2610d amp, would i have to wire 2 of the subs together and then to the amp and then have the other separately wired to the amp?...there gonna be wired parallel to 1 ohm (3 ohm each)

since the amp has two outputs for parallel connections, that can work.

my question is why you chose that amp to power those awesome subs?

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Electrons behave like waves on monday, wednesday, and friday, like particles on tuesday, thursday, and saturday, and like nothing at all on sunday.

i figured out i jus hav 2 wire all of the subs 2getha with one speaker wire...also i havnt decided on wat amp im gonna get eitha...i dk if the 1000/1v2 could push all 3 of them the way i want...would the 1000/1v2 push them??

I would look into the audioque 2200d. Better than the hifonics amp and nicely priced as well. https://www.audioque.com/aq/AQamps2200D.htm $329 shipped.

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what im tryna do is find an amp that READS 1000watts on the face...obviously a competition amp thats underrated by at least 15%...if the amp READS more than 1000 watts on the cover, im forced into the next bracket in competitions...having limited trunk space in a mustang gt leads to the problem...so if anyone knows of an amp that can push all 3 of either the 8w7's or the 10w7's, and its louder than 2 10" cvx (137.5 db), please let me no

And what organization goes off the power stated on the face of an amp?

Usaci uses the 4ohm rating stated by the manufacturer of an amp to determine power class, Iasca does the same. If however you are running some local organization that is running in this mannar then i still got some ideas.

No company that i know of makes them any more but, maybe you can get lucky and find one used. They are now commonly called "cheater" amps In my old days of competing Usaci(1999-2000)they still had this type of rating system but, class structures were different and a bit easier to get around ..... USamps at the time made what was called a VLX25. It was 12.5rms x 2...... yes I said that right stereo at 4ohm but when bridged at .25 ohm would do about 1200rms. I ran the 100 watt consumer class with 4 of these at a .25 load. My buddy Micheal Glen did the same amps in a hatchback civic with 12 12s and took world finals by over 3db to the nearest competitor 161.6db if i remember right and was a WR for the class. Mind you this is a 100watt class. Was not long after that they changed classes and rules a bit. But if they want power to be printed on the outside there ya go! And it does exactly what it say it does! Its just "printed" stereo at a 4ohm load when it can do a lot more when bridged and ran down at a lower impedance.

USamps made these in 4 models that I remeber. VLX50 same as the VLX25 in power at .25ohm the VLX25 replaced the VLX50 so we could run 4 amps instead of 2 and still stay in the 100 watt class. They also made a VLX200 and a VLX400. VLX 400 is a straight out beast. 4000+rms at a .25 ohm load. Mind you these amps are capable of running this type of load for burps. You would not want to run it this way for daily use. Also electrical system must be strong enough to support the loads.

The VLX 200 and 400 are much easier to find. You can find a good used vlx 400 for around $800 to $1000. It is "rated" 200rms x 2 Trust me it is 3 feet of pure power once bridged and you lower the impedence @ 1ohm bridge 2400rms. This load would be safe for daily use. Just have electrical to back it. But if you are looking for something printed lower than it really is capable. This is the way to go. BTW you cant use these anymore in USACI or Iasca. They say it is cheating :) But for a local org you bet you A** i would run them. Even if just to make a point that classes by printed or stamped numbers on an amp means nothing.

Oh and another cool fact. The were test rated at 12.6 volts. Not the 14.4 volt of the usual standard today.

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unless you have encouraging words about the alphasonik PMA1000DA (i dk if i really like this that much or if it pushes what it claims)(THD: <0.08%), im just gonna scratch that idea...to make my life much easier, im just gonna get an amp that would power all three of the 10w7's to their fullest...i dc bout the class anymore...have any recommendations on an amp that can push all three of them at a 1ohm load?...im gonna b putting in an additional 2400 watts of power cells to my already 1800 as well as my 230amp h.o alternator and 1/0 gauge wire

and its just local competitions...they get TECHNICAL and claim that if it says it on the amp, you can drop a class...ie. i had to deal with being in a class against trucks with 4 18's powered by 9 power cells and a ported box big enuff to sleep in...while the guy i was parked next to ran 2 13.5w7 with a 1000/1v2 amp and he was allowed to be in a lower class because his amp reads 1000 watts on it, wen we all know it puts out more than 1000 watts...

j.reed wrote:

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I would look into the audioque 2200d. Better than the hifonics amp and nicely priced as well. https://www.audioque.com/aq/AQamps2200D.htm $329 shipped.

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If your not worried about class then I would really consider this amp. If you are worried about class and it is a local org Find a VLX-400 :)

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fyerbyrd22 wrote:

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and its just local competitions...they get TECHNICAL and claim that if it says it on the amp, you can drop a class...ie. i had to deal with being in a class against trucks with 4 18's powered by 9 power cells and a ported box big enuff to sleep in...while the guy i was parked next to ran 2 13.5w7 with a 1000/1v2 amp and he was allowed to be in a lower class because his amp reads 1000 watts on it, wen we all know it puts out more than 1000 watts...

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Thats exacly why I would do a VLX-400. Then just say "well it say 400 right on it and is rated at 400rms at 4ohm stereo" and leave it at that. Never mind the fact it is tested at 12.6 volts, is 44 inches long and is capable of way more power at lower bridged independence.

The way I see you would get the season finished and they will have to change the rules to make the classes more even. A lot of people will get mad when they see you have a 4 foot long amp that only 400 watts. It would force them to make better rules. No one would want to run up against you. Once the rules get changed. You would not be out anything. You could then sell the amp for what you paid for it. Im sure of that.

found one on the bay item number: 130345237022
only has one day left on it.

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i agree, a "cheater" amp is probably your best bet. i don't think that one 1000/1 would be enough for you (though it would still do a decent job).

your difficulty is that you have a 1 ohm load, and many cheater amps do well at 0.5 ohm

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Electrons behave like waves on monday, wednesday, and friday, like particles on tuesday, thursday, and saturday, and like nothing at all on sunday.

keep_hope_alive wrote:

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i agree, a "cheater" amp is probably your best bet. i don't think that one 1000/1 would be enough for you (though it would still do a decent job).

your difficulty is that you have a 1 ohm load, and many cheater amps do well at 0.5 ohm

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Thats why I suggest the VLX-400 measured at 12.6volts 2400rms @1ohm bridged. If you got a really good charging system and can keep the volts up the you would get even more power out of it. Which is why i loved these amps so much.

Usaci even to this day goes by the manufactures rating at 4ohms. Granted they have disallowed this type of amplifier. They made these just for competetors and tried to give the competitor using there amp the highest chance of success. They gave you SOOO much more than what the paper said. Cant really say that these days. Thats why i miss the good old day.

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