Looking for a little help...
I am very new to the car audio world. I've installed a system in my boat, & my son's Mustang (with alot of help on each), both sound real well. I installed a set of "used" Punch 10's (they were given to us). This was to see if 10's were the way to go. He has, of course, blown both of them...So, I'm in search of new subs for him. I don't plan on spending a ton of money, this is just for his listening pleasure, & there is a strict "noise ordinance" here in our town.
A quick run-down of what he has installed & running...
Sony cdx gt8201P head unit
JBL GT5 A604 & GT5 A3001 amps
4 Polk Audio door speakers ( I don't remember the mod #)
The sub enclosures are .75 cf each, & are sealed
The subs I am considering (I've left the manfacture out of the equation because I know folks are often swayed by simple name brands. I am looking for an unbiased opinion on which will be the better choice based on specs. The price of each of these for two will be virtually the same. Any input on this will be greatly appreciated.
CHOICE #1
10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils Peak 1400 watts RMS 350 watts Impedance Dual 4 ohms Polypropylene cone woofer Rubber surround Tinsel wire protector Cast aluminum frame Die-cast aluminum basket 2" Dual 4 ohms voice coil Frequency response: 25-400 Hz Sensitivity 91 dB Mounting depth: 5-7/8" Sealed box volume: 0.75 cu. ft Ported box volume: 1.25 cu. ft Type | Component |
Size | 10" |
Impedance | 4Ohms |
Voice Coil(s) | Dual |
Sensitivity | 91dB |
Peak Power Handling | 1,400 Watts |
RMS Power Range | 350 Watts |
Surround Material | Rubber |
Cone Material | Polypropylene |
Frequency Response | 25 - 400Hz |
CHOICE #2
600 watts Peak / 300 watts RMS Sensitivity: 84.5dB Frequency response: 35-150 Hz Impedance: 4 ohm Voice Coil: 1.75" High temperature dual 4 ohms voice coil Mounting Depth: 6.8" Cut Out Diameter: 9.15" Polypropylene cone woofer Stitched NBR surround Die-cast, stamped aluminum basket 8-gauge nickel compression terminals Rubber magnet boot ALDS (Asymmetrical Linear Drive System) Flat progressive spider Extended pole piece for smooth, linear, piston like drive Exclusive spider plateau venting cooling system Type | Component |
Size | 10" |
Impedance | 4Ohms |
Voice Coil(s) | Dual |
Voice Coil Diameter | 1.75" |
Sensitivity | 84.5dB |
Peak Power Handling | 600 Watts |
RMS Power Range | 300 Watts |
Cone Material | Polypropylene |
Frequency Response | 35-150Hz |
Xmax | 14mm |
I forgot to add...
The specs of the sub amp
175w rms x 1ch @ 4ohm / 225w rms x 1ch @ 2ohm / 300w rms x 1ch @ 1ohm
I plan on wiring the subs for a 1 ohm rating.
let me see if im correct.
Choice 1 = JBL GTO1014D
Choice 2 = MTX TR5510-44
Knowing manufacturer is a good thing to know. Yes you will get some biased answers, but you can usually weed through those fairly easily. Specs are something easy to manipulate and are done on a constant bases for trying to pass crap off as decent product by showing comparable numbers to a quality built product.
Both of those subs are very comparable. I actually have 2 of the MTX TR5510-44 10s ported in my wifes car on 500rms. She is pretty happy with them. She just wanted some very cheap fill and they do that, but the JBL IMO is a better made sub and should preform as well if not better for your application.
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You definetly know your subs!!
I appreciate the input...I had figured that both subs were close, but I am only looking at specs, & I really don't know what I'm looking at...lol. I was leaning towards the JBL, if for nothing else, they match his amps. All the reviews I found on both subs were good, at least for the application...Just personal listening, & certainly not any type of competetion.
Thanks again...
Also, knowing the first subs were blown. Take a look at this link.
How to set your gains.
Ensuring the gains are set correctly will help ensure you don't blow the next set of subs. Make sure your son reads it to understand why. I'm betting your son was trying to get some extra loudness out of it by cranking the bass or running too high of a volume causing clipping or it was just gained too high in the first place causing clipping. Just guessing though the subs could have just been very warn out and old. If you do want to get a bit more loudness out of the same setup and the sealed enclosures are not enough output. You could go to a ported enclosure. This will yield a bit more output over the sealed with the power you are giving and may make your son a bit more happy.
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WOW...Car audio has come along way from a Kraco in dash cassette, with an EQ & 6x9's in the back...lol
I think I may be dating myself here...lol
Very good information, I printed it out, & I will be double checking my boat system settings...
Thanks again for your help!
definately go with choice #1...................the sensitivity of choice #1 smokes the sensitivity of choice #2