I've got a few questions that I hadn't seen answered elsewhere. I've got a 1997 Ford F-250 crewcab that I'm piecing an audio setup for. My HU is a Kenwood KDC-MP235 and my alpine door speakers(currently powered the HU) will be powered by a pdx 4.100. I plan to purchase a single JL 13TW5 (possibly two) for behind the rear seat. Would a pdx 1.600 be a suitable amp for the 3 ohm load of the sub? Which wiring configuration for a single or dual sub setup? I like the TW5 as it will fit nicely behind the seats but I couldn't find if it is dual voice coil or single. Another question is how to run the RCAs. The HU has front and rear RCA outputs or the rear can be set up as a sub output on a KDC-MP235. Final questions are what size speaker wire should I use for the doors and sub? Will the factory wiring be sufficient for the door speakers or should it be upgraded to a larger size? Same with the sub, what size for a pdx 1.600? Feel free to send any appropriate links to other topics on the board. I looked all over but didn't read much about speaker wire size. Maybe I should have searched speaker conductor size. Anyway, thanks in advance.
Chris
Yeah the pdx1.600 will be fine at 3ohms. To run the RCA's you will want to run the rear channel as your sub output and use splitters for the front channel and run your 4 channel off the front output. The factory wiring will work for the speaker wiring and i highly doubt you want to fish the wiring thru the doors if you do decide to replace it I'd go with 16gauge, for the sub you could run 10-12gauge and be fine.
Thanks for the input. Picked up my sub today. 13TW5 new in the box for $250. Now I need to find a decent deal on a pdx 1.600. I got my pdx 4.100 cheap as it was inop and was able to repair it myself. Thank God it was a power issue and not anything more complicated. I've got some time so I'll get the big 3 upgraded before I get any further into my little project.
Chris
If my sub is single VC at 3 ohms is it better to run the amp at 2 ohms or 4 ohms?
you runnin a single w5? if so, the amp will be running power into 3 ohms. that cannot be changed except for adding an additional woofer(s)
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weapons of mass distortion
lancebhotroddin wrote:
you runnin a single w5? if so, the amp will be running power into 3 ohms. that cannot be changed except for adding an additional woofer(s)
Yeah, single w5. If the amp is 2 ohm at 600w and 4 ohm at 600w it shouldn't be an issue running a 3 ohm sub correct? Just as long as the sub can handle the power or the gain is set low enough that the sub won't be overdriven?
You should be fine with that set-up as long as you keep your gains low. The two power ratings on the pdx 1.600 are not limiting the amplifier to only drive woofers with 2,4 OHM load and those are just reference numbers, everything varies in electronics. However on JL's site it says you may be voiding your warranty by using that AMP here is the link I found
JL power chart About that amp I've heard a lot of GREAT things about the new Class D ICE amps including the Alpine PDX's I was wondering if anyone had actually listened to or heard of how Pioneers new PRS amps sound they look better than Alpines on paper (lower THD and WAY better S/N)
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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery
So I finished installing my system. Kenwood kvt-514 hu to an alpine pdx 4.100 powering the door speakers and a jl 1/500 powering the jl 13tw5. Ran #4 to the amps. I set the jl amp up just like thier tutorial showed online. The sub just doesn't sound right at low volume. Kind of hollow sounding. Q is set to 1.1, center freq to 55 and the boost to around 3. Am I missing anything. I don't have the remote bass boost control installed yet.
Thx,
Chris