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Here are some specs on the amp. and I was informed that they are the same company as Power Acoustik.

Main Features
1-Channel Class D Amplifier with Bass Control Knob
1200 Watts @ 4 Ohm RMS
1700 Watts @ 2 Ohm RMS
2200 Watts @ 1 Ohm
3000 Watts Max Power
Dimensions (LxWxH): 11.375" x 9" x 2"
Common Features: Aggressive Cast Aluminum Heatsink, All Connections on the Front Side, Black Acrylic Top with Gorilla Logo and Brilliant Silver Texture Coat Finish, Regulated PWM Power Supply, High Speed Digital Circuitry, 3-Way Protection Circuitry, 1 Ohm Load Stable, Bridged Synchronization (Strap Amps Together for Double Power), Pre-Amp Outputs, 200mV-6V Low Level Inputs, Variable 12dB 40Hz-200Hz LPF, Variable 12dB 20-50Hz Subsonic Filter, Variable 0-18dB 45Hz Bass Boost, Frequency Response: 15Hz to 150Hz, S/N Ratio: 100dB, THD: 0.5%, 180 Degree Phase Switch, Direct Input 4 Gauge Power and 8 Gauge Speaker Terminals

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BP

Their CLAIMED specs should tell you something right off the bat. 3000 max and 2200RMS at 1 ohm. Yeah, umm ok. Cheap overrated CRAP. It only uses 2 40A fuses. You would be lucky to see 800 watts rms out of that amp.

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posted_image

Cheap, Looks nice, loud, sounded like dog poo.
Save a few more bucks and buy some more quality

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UNLABELED Custom Car Club President

blackcivichatch wrote:

Cheap, Looks nice, loud, sounded like dog poo.
Save a few more bucks and buy some more quality

hahaha, how does dog poo sound, just messing with you. But had you used one before? I see you put "sounded" so it sounds like you've have experience with this amp.

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BP

what about this amp? CLICK HERE TO SEE THE AMPit is power acoustik. scroll all the way to the bottom of the page, i was looking at getting that amp, the specs are on the bottom of the page. thanks.

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BP

and what about that amp with these subs. they are all the way on the bottom of the page too, for the 12" ones, id be getting 2 of them.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE SUBS

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BP

Seems to me you like the highly over rated, inflated specs company's. Pure and utter CRAP! If lightning struck those amps, maybe they could produce the power they say. The BAMF5500/1d there most power full amp is only fused at 200A. There is no way it is going to make the "rated" 3200rms power @ 1ohm.

Name your budget and maybe we can get our heads together and find you some better gear.

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$500 for 2 12" subs and an amp. i also get good discounts on a lot of stuff, so that helps and i was looking at Incriminator Audio; Lethal Injection 12" subs. and possibly a kicker amp or something, but i dont know.

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BP

What is your overall goal, SPL, SQ? judging by your selections Im guessing SPL.

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posted_image

xchrisx wrote:

blackcivichatch wrote:

Cheap, Looks nice, loud, sounded like dog poo.
Save a few more bucks and buy some more quality

hahaha, how does dog poo sound, just messing with you. But had you used one before? I see you put "sounded" so it sounds like you've have experience with this amp.

Lol yes. I did have one. It seemed like it Could be an OK amp for a couple 8's, but it just didnt play the lows.... at all.
It was just too punchy, and kinda cheap sounding. (hard to explain, but similar to the sound of dog poo) lol

Im definitely a cheap ass, even I would try to save a couple more bucks to get somethin a lil better quality.

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UNLABELED Custom Car Club President

to give you an idea of how much bs theyre ratings are, ive installed a Rockford Fosgate 2500-1bd which is a true 2500 watt amp, it requires 0 ga wire and a 300 amp fuse, so if that amp your inquiring about has 80 amps worth do the math and i suppose about 800 watts would be about right.

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2000 Chevy S10. 2 JL 12w7's, 2 JL 1000/1's, 3 Optima Batteries

j.reed wrote:

What is your overall goal, SPL, SQ? judging by your selections Im guessing SPL.

Yes, SPL, I could care less for SQ or anything, just SPL.

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BP

What about Sound Stream? are they any good? i was looking at this amp its the 4th amp in from the left. the DTR1.2200.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE AMP

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BP

and what about these subs. i will be getting 2 12".

click her to see the subs.

or these ones, again 2 12".

click on this one to see the other subs.

off topic, look at this amp!! DAMN that is sick!

re-DICK-ulous

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BP

Much better gear. Check out Audioque too.

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posted_image

Haha i though so. So which set of subs will be better? and amp as well? Thanks.

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BP

I would go with the SPLx out of the two you picked. How are these fitting the budget?

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posted_image

I was looking at the SPLX but i saw the magnet weight and its only like 5lbs. so I don't know, i know that the weight of a subs isn't a huge thing, but for something thats only 5lbs??? I'm a little leery.

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BP

the sub is not 5 pounds. Just the magnet its self. The sub weighs 34 pounds.

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posted_image

really? ok, cool deal. but where do you see that at? and ...there is a circuit city ad on the bottom of the page as i am typing this haha....anyway umm where was I... oh right now I am looking for something to hit at least 145db. i use to hit 141db with my 2 audiobahn aw1200q subs, granted they were only good for spl and had horrible sq, i didn't mind, they lasted me 7 years and they are still going. but i want something that is just straight SPL, do you have any other inputs? take a look at this site, here i could get 2 12" lethal injections for 300 shipped, that leaves 200 for an amp.

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BP

are the power acoustik mofox subs any good? they look beefy as hell and look like they would slam pretty hard, granted itd be all spl and no sq, but again, i could care less for sq, im only into spl. and they are not too expensive either, so maybe a good choice?

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BP

the power acoustik subs may look beefy, but they are Cheap overrated CRAP! the IA is a better woofer.

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posted_image

I wired a boat with soundstream equipment. After a full day of hard use in the heat, the amps would shut off. But never sooner than expected. In the end, the box will determine whether or not your "slappin". Subs in the same price range all have their +/-. Except Memphis! posted_image

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This is what I do for FUN!

ianarian makes a very valid point. Enclosure is one of them most important keys if not THE most important part of your subwoofer system.

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posted_image

<!!!WARNING!!! Grammar police !!!WARNING!!!>

xchrisx wrote:

...but again, i could care less for sq...

You keep saying that... That means that you DO care, if only a little bit. If you *could* care less, then why DON'T you care less? I'm sure you mean "you COULDN'T care less". That phrase means that you do not care even the slightest bit about SQ, which is, I am sure, the emotion you are trying to convey...

</!!!WARNING!!! Grammar police !!!WARNING!!!>

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

haemphyst wrote:

<!!!WARNING!!! Grammar police !!!WARNING!!!>

xchrisx wrote:

...but again, i could care less for sq...

You keep saying that... That means that you DO care, if only a little bit. If you *could* care less, then why DON'T you care less? I'm sure you mean "you COULDN'T care less". That phrase means that you do not care even the slightest bit about SQ, which is, I am sure, the emotion you are trying to convey...

</!!!WARNING!!! Grammar police !!!WARNING!!!>

hahaha, yeah, I couldn't care less about SQ, I only want SPL and I know that the box is what everything relies on in the end, and I can build boxes pretty damn good, so that isn't an issue.

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BP

Maybe he should have put it this way. Do you want to be able to play music? or will this just be a burp machine at one certain Hz? This will determine SPL output. If you intend to play music it wont be a full out SPL machine. Some sacrifice will have to be made for any musicality of the system.

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posted_image

i want it to be able to play music too, but basically something that no one as a daily driver could beat out and also something i can take to the lanes if i choose to.

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BP

xchrisx wrote:

i want it to be able to play music too, but basically something that no one as a daily driver could beat out and also something i can take to the lanes if i choose to.

So you do need a small amount of SQ posted_image

With your budget I don't see you beating everyones daily driver. You would be lucky if you went full out burp box and got close to the numbers of my daily driver, but I have a LOT of money wrapped up in it. I have a buddy that had a "daily driver" that was doing over 160db+. He drove it to work everyday.

What class are you trying to compete in? Power class, square inches class, modded, ect.?

I think its time now to look at your budget, goals and reevaluate a bit to make for realistic goals. If your goal is simply 145db that can probably be done. Even with a more musical playing system. Being the baddest dude around on that budget is not going to happen. With a high tune burp box you could do well in the lanes, but it not going to play music. If you go to something that plays music you are going to lose some SPL which could take you out of a good spot in the lanes. Install and clean power can get you pretty far.

What kind of vehicle is this going in?

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posted_image

its going in a 96 eclipse. Basically, I want something that I can do at least 145db in daily. I can go a little above my budget, but not much. Again, I also get things at a very good price depending on the brand too. But if you let me know what I would need, I can see what I can do. I just want to compete with 2 12"s, nothing major, but something that will beat daily at 145db.

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BP

I did my brother in laws CRX with modded crossfire 1000d and 2 memphis m3 12's its doing mid 145s at 35Hz. and still sounds pretty good too. a bit peaky, but That should be a workable goal with your vehicle.

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posted_image

Cool deal. Just let me know what I should look into. Thanks.

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BP

Audioque amps are pretty cheap and make good power. think the AQ2200 is $289 shipped. Sub wise there are quite a few that would fit the bill and almost your budget. With a good designed ported enclosure you should be able to get close to or even better than your goal.

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posted_image

I'm looking at their stuff and it looks pretty decent. Did you happen to take a look at incriminator audio? They have pretty good stuff too. I don't know which to go with.

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BP

Retail $1000 more for the IA20.1 is very high compared to AQ and less rated power then the AQ2200, but it is fused at 200A like the AQ2200. In the end its up to you. Its your money, sweat and hopefully not too much blood.

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posted_image

well with IA, i can get very good discounts on their stuff.

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BP

take a look at these subs. ive heard of Vibe but never heard them. what do you think?

Vibe

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BP

Don't know about Vibe at all, but I can tell you now that sub wont work for you if doing a pair. its a dual 2ohm. Leaving you a 2 or .5 ohm load. What about the Fi BL its 1000 RMS and rebuild-able. You can also add features for more power handling if needed. BL and BTL are both great SPL sub and built nicely. Price is also very respectful. They are actually made in the same house as RE and Ascendant Audio. So quality is very good. In fact I believe the basket is from the RE MT's. The Fi BL is like $275 for the 12. You can get it in 1ohm and 2ohm DVC. A pair of dual 1ohm BL's would be perfect for you with an IA20.1 or the AQ2200. I could see that getting pretty dang loud.

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well i was thinking of just going with the 2 12" IA Lethal Injections or Death Penalty's. With those and probably the AQ2200. by the way, how much is that AQ2200 amp?

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BP

nevermind, i found it. haha my bad.

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BP

I'm trying to follow along....but how you doing on budget? Do you still need to buy wires, connectors, fuse? etc?

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This is what I do for FUN!

ianarian wrote:

I'm trying to follow along....but how you doing on budget? Do you still need to buy wires, connectors, fuse? etc?

On budget, if I get the 2 12" IA Lethal Injections, it will cost me $300 for both together shipped. therefore, I would have $200 left over. I have all my wiring and everything, basically i just need 2 12" subs and a monoblock amp and I am good to go.

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BP

If it were me. I would save a bit more and go with the IA death row woofer at a min from the IA line or Fi BL from Fi. On the AQ2200 or IA20.1 amp. The extra power handling will be a benefit for sure. Either of those amps are pretty stout. I would have a hard time putting 2 600rms woofers on an amp over 2000rms. Your just asking for putting out more money anyway on replacing the overpowered woofers. Especially in the lanes. It would save you in the long run. If you can't it could be ok with lower gain setting and absolutely no clipping for daily and a very carefull ear. In the lanes for a burp it could be fine, but on a musical average the life will be drastically cut. Now if you went to the AQ1200 you would be fine, but we are talking a potential loss of 3db form the power loss. To get that back you could tune really high, but then you lost any chance of any decent musicality of the system.

Another thing we have not discussed is powering the system. Your going to need a H/O alt 200+A to power a AQ2200 or IA.20, big 3 and a min of 2 gauge wire. I would run nothing less then 0 gauge personally.

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posted_image

Hah, J.Reed, good call, I wasnt sure if that had been discussed. Ya xchrisx, you may be a little ways from shore still. The level of power your talkin, I'd walk through every parameter again with J.R to make sure every last item has been accounted for and approved. By all means, rock on with it, you're on the way, the12volt can see you through to the end.

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This is what I do for FUN!

I already have a HO alternator, brand new Duralast Gold battery, and all 0 gauge wiring including for the big 3. I have in the back a batcap 800 and a stinger spv35, but I have the stinger battery out for now, I dont know if I will put it back in. so as far as the wiring and power, I think I have that already covered, pretty much its going to be on the woofers and amp. Also, i was already looking at the DR(death row) subs, I may go that way, but I have to see what my price would be for that. As far as the amp, if i were to stay with the LI(lethal injection) I would go with the 1200 rather than the 2200.

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BP

Well i guess it up to you to decide what your final selections are then posted_image

. Once you do that then you can start figuring box design.

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posted_image

well I actually got set back because the transmission went in my car so I had to get a different one. So I then had to take up an offer that was amazing. 3 12" Crossfire BMF 1214 subs and 2 Crossfire XP600D amps and a Pioneer 7" cd/dvd player. Now with that being said, what would be a good size to build that box? Any input is welcome. Again, as you can tell I want it to be a box that can put down numbers, SPL is everything to me and SQ is nothing to me. It will be where the back seat would be in a 96 eclipse, my last setup i had it subs up, port front because the way the back is sealed off for air ride and monitors and whatnot. Thanks!

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BP

I put the wrong amps, they are going to be 2 of them, model number VRA600D

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BP

As far as tune i cant really tell you what would be best for your vehical or placement. Do you have access to a spl mic, TL or AC? If you do, I would start out with 8 cube gross and around 200sq.in of port area. length around 16.5 that should be an Fb=56hz or so. Should peak around 60 Hz. Then you can add in mdf plates to narrow down the port area and lower tune until you find the sweet spot for the vehicle.(this method will take time and lots of testing). This will be a very peaky box. Normal music listening would be straight CRAP and could damage the subs very easily without sub sonic filter set correctly. Anthing below the Fb the subwoofer can mechanically unload and very fast in a n enclosure like this. It could cause damage even with a filter below Fb, but once you find the vehicle resonance point you should see some very good DB's out of it. 145s should be cake. possibly 150+db burps.

One of the reasons we said before. If you want to play music you will need some SQ, But that would be the way to go as loud as it could.

If you dont have a mic. I would not suggest that method. Go 6cu.ft. net and 60sq.in of port area. Tune to 35hz-45 hz.

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posted_image

j.reed wrote:

If you dont have a mic. I would not suggest that method. Go 6cu.ft. net and 60sq.in of port area. Tune to 35hz-45 hz.

I do not have any access at all to any mic or anything else. And another thing, I can BUILD a ported box, and I can DESIGN AND BUILD SEALED boxes, but ported boxes i cannot design. Now I have heard to build to such and such sq.in of port. How do I get 60in. of port area? Like basically just a breakdown of the pieces of wood sizes e.x.:

Face(top) = ...in. x ...in.
Bottom = ...in. x ...in.
L. Side = ...in. x ...in.
R. Side = ...in. x ...in.
Front(where the port will be) = ...in. x ...in.
Rear = ...in. x ...in.
Port piece 1(for L style port) = ...in. x ...in.
Port piece 2(for L style port) = ...in. x ...in.

It will be subs up and port front for me because of the way the car is setup, I know that much from a friend who helped me last time. Oh and the wood will be .75" thick and I will resin the inside of the box and the outside too.

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BP

Area of the port opening would be the port opening width X height= 60 square inches. So you could do a 10" X 6" port. That would give you 60 sq.in. of port area. Without having measurements of the space its hard to say how i would lay it out. As far a tune. The goal is 1/4 wavelength tuning to where the meter will be placed. So you will want the enclosure to peak at that frequency. Hints why i would do it with a test enclosure and with a very peaky enclosure to get the most output at the frequency and tune until it is spot on.

So since you cant do that. Start using the slot port and enclosure calculators on this site. Take 6 cubic foot net, figure a port at 60sq.in of port area. ex. 10"x 6" or what ever you want to make it to fit right. Enter in the Fb tune where you think best, probably somewhere between 35-45Hz.

Once you have the port area and length figure for your goal net. Then figure the cubic foot of the port volume. L x W x H. of the port, add that to the 6 cubic foot net. Then add driver displacement for the drivers and any internal bracing to the total. That will give you the GROSS internal volume you should shoot for.

Once you have the GROSS internal figured. Head to the box calculator. Start working dimensions to get you to your gross internal that will fit your space.

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posted_image

spl brand amps