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2 subs blown in a month

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119929
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 7:48 PM


Topic: 2 subs blown in a month

Posted By: quintonre
Subject: 2 subs blown in a month
Date Posted: February 06, 2010 at 5:45 AM

I have an alpine head unit, sony xplod 2/1 1000 watt amp, and a kenwood excelon 12" sub.
I previously owned a sony 10" slim (just installed the system) and was using one side of the amp not bridging my connection.
When I went to best buy looking for more power he bridged it for me and said it was supposed to be that way for 1 sub.
My fire new sub was a rockford p1 12" and it blew within 15 minutes of play at 3/4 volume.
my kenwood excelon also blew.
I replaced it, but 2 subs makes me think there is a problem.
anyone have any ideas?



Replies:

Posted By: blackcivichatch
Date Posted: February 06, 2010 at 10:10 AM
That Sony Explode amp is prolly clippin like crazy.
Were the gains set properly?

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UNLABELED Custom Car Club President




Posted By: licto
Date Posted: February 06, 2010 at 10:51 AM

Initial thought......  just too much power for that caliber of sub......  not sure exactly what part number you have for you sub amp, but here are some specs for their 1200 what amp.

PS...  it is always a good idea to include exact part numbers and details about you ride so we can help you out.

SONY XPLOD XM-ZR1852 im guessing this is the amp.  Even thought it has numbers like 1000w....

Specs on the amp in real world state more in the range of 400 watts RMS.  Hopefully you know what RMS is.  This is a brideged mode power output.

Rockford Fosgate P1S412 12" Punch P1 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer features 300 Watts Max Power

I was running a JL audio 10w3V2....  it had a RMS power rating of about 300 to 500 watts RMS.  I run an ALPINE MRP-M1000 that puts out aprox 600 watts RMS going to a 4 ohm load.  I just blew my JL about two weeks ago.

I then went and got an alpine type R 12" because of this reason.  My amp could put out more than what my sub could take.  The alpine type R can take up to 500 watts rms with peaks of 1500 w.  I now run my amp at a 2 ohm load which can throretically provide the full 1000 watts RMS to my sub.....  so I still have to be carefull.  But the type R has a much more robust voice coil than the JL 10w3 I was running.

Next key point to consider  or check is the gain setting on your amp......  I pretty much run mine at nominal, or half way on the dials......  that should be pretty safe and it is not pushing the amps to a crazy level of performance.  There are several ways to set gains just perfect and this forum has them write ups on that very lesson.

Enclosure for your sub.......  this matters.  I found out that my sub enclosure I built for my JL was just not correct.  This can allow a sub to basically flop around or have very little control when being pushed by heavy wattage.  I have since gone to the perfect sealed enclosure for my type R and I dont expect more issues when really giving it a work out.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~85479~PN~1

Hope this info helps......  if you want a great sub for the price, I would recommend the type R.  It will take what your amp can put out and then some.  Great performing subs for the price vs JL pricing.

Licto





Posted By: thunder-bunny
Date Posted: February 06, 2010 at 4:28 PM

yes same here i think the amp is clipping like crazy

i have a rockford 15 inch sub 600 w rms on a groundzero hydrogen 1480 w rms

and no probs even with long times at full power

the same sub before  the GZ was on a hifonics samson 300 w rms also no probs

so or your amp is broken and feeds dc to your subs or the amp is clipping like crazy

and caliber sorry to say but just looking angry at them and they blow up!

rockford well that is strange they can handle some abuse.





Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: February 06, 2010 at 7:19 PM
Consider this. If you have a heavy foot and do the Pilsbury tire bake off at every stop light and then 3 weeks later the tires on your car are bald, who's fault is it? Is it the tires fault for being doodiety and using crappy rubber or it is the operator of the vehicle with the heavy foot? Post more info next time as well. Always post model numbers of product and where things like gain are set, box type used etc. The more info you give the more accurate an answer can be given.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: spl_kid
Date Posted: February 06, 2010 at 8:05 PM
The problem is this if you keep blowing the replaced sub. the new sub requires a break-in period and you can't just pound on it out the box like your doing. That would cause it to malfunction or blow. If it is not the new sub everytime. it may be the loading of the enclosure over working one area of your enclosure.




Posted By: ianarian
Date Posted: February 06, 2010 at 9:45 PM
Every sub that I have ever tested has been at its absolute max limit. Find a empty lot somewhere and tune away. If I had a system installed by a shop, and blew a sub, I'd be gosh darned if I didnt blame them. Installer error! Speaking of which, got a valid warranty? Oh, and dont underestimate Sony's peak power ratings. Their amps have their moments. Its why they call it explode, J/K.


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This is what I do for FUN!




Posted By: zerepdivad
Date Posted: February 08, 2010 at 9:28 PM
spl_kid wrote:

The problem is this if you keep blowing the replaced sub. the new sub requires a break-in period and you can't just pound on it out the box like your doing. That would cause it to malfunction or blow. If it is not the new sub everytime.


Not true. Subwoofers do not require a break-in period.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 6:47 PM

zerepdivad wrote:

spl_kid wrote:

The problem is this if you keep blowing the replaced sub. the new sub requires a break-in period and you can't just pound on it out the box like your doing. That would cause it to malfunction or blow. If it is not the new sub everytime.


Not true. Subwoofers do not require a break-in period.

Uh-Oh...Refer to the search feature...!



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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: zerepdivad
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 8:40 PM
What about it. two subs in a row are not going to just blow. He's obviously either got a crappy amp that puts out a "dirty" signal and is blasting the gain, or just plain doesn't know how to properly set up, and tune the amp.   I have done more than my fair share of amplifier, and subwoofer setups, and i always tell the customer they're ok to blast them right away, and with the amp tuned properly i have never had one blow right away like he is experiencing. His issues have nothing to do with "breaking in" his subwoofers.
But i'm really not going to get into a discussion about this because i'll let people think what they want.
Bottom line, his subs are not blowing because they aren't "broken in"

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 9:18 PM
Feel like arguing ey...? My point was to use the search feature as there are plenty of info on this subject...It has been answered and did not feel like opening"a can of worms"...It tells you the benefit of breaking in and the myth's associated with ruining a sub by "NOT" breaking one in...I didnt say that caused his failure...ONLY to refer to the search feature b/c this has been put to rest...Easy there...Dude...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 9:25 PM

Speakers need to be broken in because it makes them sound better.  They do NOT need to be broken in to prevent damaging them.(Dyohn)

 

You folks may be misinterpreting what speaker break-in is all about.  It is not some magical thing that is necessary for the drivers to operate properly, it is simply a natural phenomenon that occurs in ALL loudspeakers whether you like it or not as they are used.  The soft parts become more compliant and the speaker operates better, moves more freely, sounds better, etc.  It is not a myth and it is not BS it is physics.  Period.(Dyohn)
___________________________________________

Here's the bottom line:  No speaker "requires" break-in to prevent some sort of damage.  All speakers potentially operate better and can sound better after they are "broken-in."  Period.  The proof is in the ears of the listener and the effect is different for every speaker.  Every speaker is different and reacts to operation differently.  The most common effect of break-in is a lowered fs.  Some manufacturers recommend a break-in period because their experience shows that their speakers sound better if it is done.  Others don't.  Simple(Dyohn)

 

I think there is an article from Adire audio regarding this also...See if i can find it...



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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 9:51 PM
 Causes of speaker failure

The causes for speaker failure can be either thermal or mechanical.

The causes for thermal failure are : 

  • too much input power
  • signals outside the speaker bandpass (radio frequency, subsonic frequencies, deep bass). Energy not to converted to sound ends up as heat
  • amplifier clip, the most common cause of thermal failure
  • direct current (DC) at the amplifier output, although this is uncommon in today's amplifiers
  • excessive equalization, mostly high frequencies, since these frequencies exhibit low transducer efficiency and generate lots of heat

To prevent thermal failure, avoid amplifier clip and ensure that the speaker is only receiving frequencies within its bandpass, using high-pass and low-pass filters to limit the frequency content being fed to the speaker.

The causes for mechanical failure are always linked to excessive diaphragm (cone) movement. The speaker shows greater excursion (backward and forward movement) the lower the frequency. Hence a signal low enough in frequency and large enough in level may cause the voice coil to exit the gap, resulting in the coil rubbing, and possible ending up shorting or opening. The worst case scenario happens when the coil former hits the bottom pole piece ("bottoms out") and gets deformed. To prevent mechanical failure, avoid using signals below a speaker's bandpass, and use an amplifier of the correct power output.

5. Selecting amplifier power

In general, the amplifier power needs to be larger than the speaker's rated power. This is because an amplifier only delivers its rated output power with sinewave signal, and delivers much less with a real signal with dynamics. As ageneral guideline, it is recommended to use an amplifier delivering 50% more power than the speaker's average ("RMS") power. For example, for a speaker with 450W average power, an amplifier with an output of 700W may be used. If a small amplifier is used, sufficient level will not be reached, nor the perception that it is attained, so the signal will tend to be clipped to compensate, thus endangering the integrity of the speaker... https://www.doctorproaudio.com/doctor/temas/powerhandling.htm

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~74226~PN~1~TPN~3

https://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm



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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: zerepdivad
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 9:51 PM
Have fun with that. Like i said i don't care to get into this discussion.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 10:02 PM
What are you talking about...I'm lost...? Have fun with what...? Where are you coming from...? What is your thought process...? Never did i say the "break-in was the problem...If you bothered to read what i posted i think its in there somewhere...! I have NO idea what you're saying...? (another link... https://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=4332&highlight=clipping+blown )

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: zerepdivad
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 10:24 PM
Ok well back on topic. Original poster.... learn how to tune an amp or read up on it, or take it to somebody to do it for you. You'll just keep going through subs/money.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 10:35 PM

zerepdivad wrote:

Ok well back on topic. Original poster.... learn how to tune an amp or read up on it, or take it to somebody to do it for you. You'll just keep going through subs/money.

Everything i posted was for "his" topic...And to kill the break-in mumbo-jumbo before it got started...The links i provided are the likely situations of what happened to his subs...That would be on-topic...Maybe a bit more informative then your answer...?



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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: zerepdivad
Date Posted: February 09, 2010 at 10:44 PM
tommy... wrote:

zerepdivad wrote:

Ok well back on topic. Original poster.... learn how to tune an amp or read up on it, or take it to somebody to do it for you. You'll just keep going through subs/money.


Everything i posted was for "his" topic...And to kill the break-in mumbo-jumbo before it got started...The links i provided are the likely situations of what happened to his subs...That would be on-topic...Maybe a bit more informative then your answer...?




I agree it is all relevant. But likely over his head. No offense to him but he's blowing subs with a sony xplod amp likely purchased at wal-mart. The fact that he blew 2 subs in a row tells me that he's likely to not understand most of what's in the links that you provided. Therefore i cut right to the point and told him in very basic terms.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.




Posted By: mrarff
Date Posted: February 15, 2010 at 3:20 PM
I might can offer another cause of "premature speaker ejaculation". It's a ding bat who doesn't bother to match his equipment (he buys what his buddies say is kool) , has a "ghetto install" performed (turning his gains all the way up) and then roars down to the Dairy Queen with his "system wide ass open and a smug look on his face.Then when it turns into a great big pumpkin,he wonders wth happened. I've seen my son do it twice, he's a slow learner.

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"That'll get ya 10 in Leavenworth,11 in Twelveworth, or 5 & 10 in Woolworth". Groucho Marx                                                      




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: February 15, 2010 at 3:30 PM

mrarff wrote:

I might can offer another cause of "premature speaker ejaculation". It's a ding bat who doesn't bother to match his equipment (he buys what his buddies say is kool) , has a "ghetto install" performed (turning his gains all the way up) and then roars down to the Dairy Queen with his "system wide ass open and a smug look on his face.Then when it turns into a great big pumpkin,he wonders wth happened. I've seen my son do it twice, he's a slow learner.

Now THAT's funny.  And accurate.  posted_image



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