I have an idea already but am kind of just looking for verification on the issue. Here is what I'm working with:
199 Merc Cougar
Big 3 is done.
0 gauge from the batt. to the Hatch
HU:Eclipse AVN6620
AMPS:Kicker XS100-ZR600-ZR240
Yellow Top Battery
Stock Alt(130amps)<------Fairly certain this is the culprit. Just wanted some outside opinions before making a move.
Well as stated when I depress the brakes for a stop light and the engine winds down my radio will shut off. Due t yh eremote lines the amps shut off as well.(Obviously). It doesn't do it all of the time. If I downshift to bring my engine down and slowly come to a stop I can sometiemes keep the radio on. 85% of the time it shuts off. After a second or so it will come back on and as I'm driving I have no issues. If I park and turn the car off leaving only the radio on, it might stay on for a good 5 minutes (at most) before cutting off and will continue to try to come back on until the car is shut off completely or started.
Thanks for any help.
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The One&Only!
Are you using a wire harness for the Eclips stereo? If your using those quick connect harnesses that CC use to sell, then eliminate the white middle wire harness.
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**ADVANCED MECP CERTIFIED
i am an idiot wrote:
Do you hav e a volt meter?
I have an autometer one connected. At car start it will bounce between 14.5-15v. As the car warms it hovers 14.0. When I hit the brakes it drops to 13.2 if the car is still cold. After warm up it drops to 12.5 when I hit the brakes.
I was going to pull my deck out again to check the connections over. They're all soldered to the harness. I bought the harness from BBuy awhile ago.
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The One&Only!
jeremytravis wrote:
Are you using a wire harness for the Eclips stereo? If your using those quick connect harnesses that CC use to sell, then eliminate the white middle wire harness.
I am using the eclipse harness.
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The One&Only!
Check your battery terminals and other connections - break & make all of them etc.
An alternator with bad battery connection typically dies on load increases...
Bad connections typically break on demand...
Being bad but not completely open, they can reconnect with all sorts of effects....
This is an elimination of the obvious....
Then there is the voltmeter...
Other than the Auto Meter mounted on your dash, do you have a volt meter?
i am an idiot wrote:
Other than the Auto Meter mounted on your dash, do you have a volt meter?
Yes I have a DMM.
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The One&Only!
You need to check the voltage on the 2 power wires of the radio to see which one is dropping. Black meter lead on the chassis of the radio, and red lead first to the red wire of the radio. Have someone drive the car and try to get it to cut off. Then check the yellow wire of the radio in the same manner. Which one drops when the radio shuts off?
Not much of an update, but here it is..I spun a bearing in my engine last week before being able to finish diagnosing the problem..I'll be back another time. Thanks for the help.
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The One&Only!
lostracer wrote:
I spun a bearing in my engine last week ...
Oh no - not another reco job? Or thick oil?
(Or maybe cornering hard on low oil levels? I used to....)