afternmarket radio problems

I'm hoping I can be pointed in the right direction - here's my problem:

The Setup: I'm replacing my 1997 Honda Civic's stereo system. I'm attempting to install an afternarket (Eclipse) head unit and a 4channel amp. I cut the factory stereo harness and rewired the speakers to my 4channel amp (not yet powered). When I chopped the spearker wires from the factory harness, I also accidentally cut the 12v constant, 12v remote, ground, and illumination wires. I reconnected these wires w/ crimp connectors. The factory harness is connected to an "easy harness" which connects to the Eclipse radio harness.

The Problem: When I connect the Eclipse harness to my stereo, it doesn't power on. I saw the fuse (7.5) had been blown - I'm not sure how or why, since the factory stereo was working prior to my install.... maybe I crossed a couple wires when I was crimping things together? Anyway, I replaced the fuse. The CD, which had been left in the Eclipse player previously, ejected as though the unit had power. My relief turned to dismay when I realized the Eclipse stereo display wasn't on, nor would it "suck in" the disc when I tried to reinsert it. I reconnected the factory stereo and it wouldn't turn on, either. The new fuse doesn't appear to be blown.

Any ideas? I'd prefer NOT to wire the stereo direclty to my fuse box. Thank you in advance!

Cutting multiple live wires at the same time will cause a short, and blown fuses or worse.

Personally, I would buy a basic soldering iron and some proper sized heat shrink tube, and redo the connections.

Then, when you know that there is no chance of a loose or internittent connection, test the connections from the molex plug you chopped back to the fuse and ground.

Using a voltmeter test to see if you get 12v at the plug and that you have continuity back through each wire.

Then test the stereo that came out of your car originally.

In addition you can bench test the stereos to see if they function properly independent of your dash connections.

.

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I know just enough to be dangerous. VERY dangerous.

I removed the crimp connections and twisted the 12v constant, 12v remote, ground, and illumination wires together to make sure I just didn't get things crimped properly and neither Eclipse radio nor the factory radio (which had just been working) would turn on.

I'll buy a test light and check the wires as you suggested. Perhaps the wires into the factory plug became loose... I suppose a test light would tell me that. I'll mess with it some more and check back.

Any other suggestions or ideas would be appreciated, too!

If you had the key in the on position when you cut the wires you have 2 blown fuses.  One will be labeled radio, I do not remember what the constant fuse is labeled in your vehicle.  If you found one blown fuse, and you had the key in the on or acc positon, look for another fuse.

Second that last post.

And by bench test, we never mean with the same wiring and setup you are having a problem with, that defeats the purpose.

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I know just enough to be dangerous. VERY dangerous.

i am an idiot wrote:

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If you had the key in the on position when you cut the wires you have 2 blown fuses.  One will be labeled radio, I do not remember what the constant fuse is labeled in your vehicle.  If you found one blown fuse, and you had the key in the on or acc positon, look for another fuse.

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Good to know! I'll check into this first.

i am an idiot wrote:

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If you had the key in the on position when you cut the wires you have 2 blown fuses.  One will be labeled radio, I do not remember what the constant fuse is labeled in your vehicle.  If you found one blown fuse, and you had the key in the on or acc positon, look for another fuse.

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It turned out to be a "memory" fuse on the inside under the driver's side dash.

I have two problems left:

1) My 4 channel amp is installed and hooked up, but the negative terminal of channel 4 does not work. I don't believe it's a wiring issue b/c I can connect the channel 4 (speaker 4) + and - wires into any of the other terminals and the speaker plays. The most that happens when I use the channel 4 - terminal is some static. Any thoughts?

2)Also, the amp power light stays on even when the car is off. The remote wire is hooked into the + post on my battery along with the amp power wire. I tried putting the remote wire into the "radio" fuse of my fusebox, thinking it would switch off with the radio, but it stays powered on regardless. Do amp power lights normally stay on always, or do I need to keep looking for another fuse?

Switch the RCA from channel 3 to channel 4.  And Vice versa, which channel does not play now?

And please, any DIY amateurs out there who might be reading this, let this tale remind you of two basic fundamentals of professional installation:  1) never work on car electronics with the power on, and 2) don't butcher a wiring harness unless you absolutely have to.  Use the proper adapters.

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The remote input on the amplifier need to get a switched ignition source from somewhere in the car. The battery will send it 12 volts all of the time causing it to remain on all of the time. The Eclipse aftermarket head unit should have a remote lead that should be connected to the remote input on the amplifier. This will turn the amp on and off with the radio. good luck.

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If you are going to make a scene, be seen and heard!

dr12volt

John pretty much hit the nail on the head with his post.  I'll be honest and I'm not trying to sound mean but if you didn't know

1) not to cut the factory harness off,

2) not to cut multiple live wires at the same time

3) where the remote turn on wire goes

I would suggest having the system installed at a professional installation shop because the things that are issues are extremely basic and would be considered things that someone should know without a doubt before even attempting any form of car electronics installation. 

May I ask how the power wire was run from the battery to the amplifier.  Was it taken through a grommet on the firewall or a hole drilled into the firewall with a grommet inserted or through the fenderwell/door? 

as far as the speaker not playing, transfer RCA's between channels and see if the issue follows the RCA.  If that is the case it may be a bad RCA cable which is not at all uncommon especially if cheap RCA cable were purchased.  It could also be a dead channel on the preamp outputs of your headunit.  If the problem continues to stay at channel 4 then it is most likely an issue with the 4channel amplifier

Also do not purchase a test light they are highly recommended against because they are not safe for all circuitry.  They pull a lot of current through the testing device when compared to a DMM and can harm sensitive data wires connected to vehicle electronics such as the PCM,BCM and such.  A DMM is safe for all ciruitry and is stupid easy to use.

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2008 Dodge Ram 1500
MECP Certified Advanced Installer CEA 191700

ben d. wrote:

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John pretty much hit the nail on the head with his post. 

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Who is John the Hammer?

lol dislexic moment dyohn is what i meant I guess i thought it was john either way the point is still valid

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2008 Dodge Ram 1500
MECP Certified Advanced Installer CEA 191700