battery being drained
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122346
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 12:20 PM
Topic: battery being drained
Posted By: neil001
Subject: battery being drained
Date Posted: June 18, 2010 at 5:01 PM
1999 Buick Century
H/U - Sony CDX-GT610U
Front - Energy ENC525CV 5.25" Component
Rear - Infinity Kappa 692.9i 6x9"
Speaker Amp - Alpine MRP-F300
Subwoofer Amp - Alpine MRP-M1000
Subwoofers - 2 Alpine Type-R SWR-1222D (Sealed box)
Stinger 1.2F Capacitor, all Stinger wires and interconnects
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So, that's what is in my car.. it's got the stock alternator and oem battery. I've had the system in my car for about 8ish months now and haven't had any problems with it until recently. Every once in a while I'll go out to my car and it'll be dead. Thinking this wasn't a big deal in the first place I got in the habit of bringing along my booster pack just in case it should ever happen again. After that the car would start flawlessly (no major difference in listening habits) for another few weeks, then the car would go dead. After recharging the battery the car would start and run fine for another few weeks,then die again. This routine has kept up since. So I got the idea (from a mechanic friend) to unplug the cable running to battery positive to see if that had any affect. It did, my car hasn't died in the 2 weeks its been unplugged. My question(s) is(are), does my alternator not put out enough amps to keep my battery charged? Is my cap too small? Should I upgrade the battery to a Optima (or comparable)? Should I look into a dual battery setup? Did I harm my cap in any way by unplugging it/will I need to "charge" the cap before reconnecting the system?
I'm a pretty big 'newb' when it comes to the car audio installation world:errr:..So any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated... I know I like loud music and had the money to afford the equipment, now I want to get the best out of it that I can. I got this installed at a local Futureshop and who knows if what went in is really what I needed, or what would help out buddy's commission check.
Replies:
Posted By: icearrow6
Date Posted: June 18, 2010 at 5:58 PM
your battery might not be retaining the charge like its supposed to. Take it to your local autoparts store to have it tested. At least here in Cali most autoparts store offer to test your ALTERNATOR and Battery Free!
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Posted By: jcs091570
Date Posted: June 19, 2010 at 2:51 AM
As mentioned in the last post... sounds like your battery is not maintaining a charge at rest. I had this problem with a standard car battery. I switched to Red Top Optima and have not had any problems. My lights will still dim slightly at highest cranking of stereo system, but not enough to warrant a capacitor.. which honestly puts more strain on your electrical system. Make sure your battery terms are nice and clean and good connections all around.
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: June 19, 2010 at 6:06 AM
Sounds like battery - not that you should run the vehicle without a battery (albethat not a problem with newer vehicles other than stalling), but that shows that the alternator is fine.
Just replace it with the same. (AGM doesn't matter.)
And although a second cheaper battery is preferable to a cap, a cap does NOR put "extra strain" or load on an alternator. (If that argument were true, it would mean LESS alternator strain.)
A second or bigger battery does put extra LOAD on the alternator (though inefficiency), but that too REDUCES alternator strain - not that alternator "strain" is a big deal..... (Fuel usage yes, but alternators - no.)
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: June 19, 2010 at 8:27 AM
Did i miss something? I would have thought battery right away! He said OEM battery in a 1999 Buick century! ------------- COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5
Posted By: neil001
Date Posted: June 19, 2010 at 9:40 AM
The battery is an OEM replacement, not literally the battery that came with the car in 1999 lol (in case that's what you meant t&t). I'd like to be able to listen to my stereo while the car is off too, but with my current setup if I turn off the car and have the stereo still on (electrics still work with the key off until I open the door) the battery will die in less than 5 minutes worth of low volume listening. Should I eliminate the cap and go for a H/O alternator and 2 batteries with an isolator? Or would an H/O alternator and 1 Optima do the trick? I've already spent close to, if not more than 2 grand on the setup and as it sits right now.. that's just 2 grand worth of metal and wires in my trunk serving no purpose other than to tease me everytime I go for a drive. I'm not overly concerned with cost (music is basically my only hobby) right now so any suggestions help. If I do go for an Optima, do I go yellow top? red top? one red one yellow? lol HELP!
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: June 19, 2010 at 10:32 AM
Yes, get rid of the cap, upgrade your battery and get your charging system tested to be sure you are charging it properly. And if you intend to listen with the engine off then consider adding a second battery. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: June 19, 2010 at 8:43 PM
Ditto.
A deep cycle for your secondary (AGM if internal or trunk etc) connected to main battery/alternator only whist charging, preferably with low-voltage cutout (for the amp etc).
Posted By: neil001
Date Posted: June 20, 2010 at 7:00 PM
So H/O (200amp-ish?) alternator with two optima reds? or two optima yellows? and eliminate the cap? Would a Stinger SPG32 do the trick for an isolator? I'm at the point where I dont care what it costs.. I just want my music back ! 
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: June 20, 2010 at 11:04 PM
It depends what you problem is.
If you want maximum music time with engine off, the a BIG capacity deep cycle battery. AGM if located "internally".
If your alternator isn't sufficient to power your vehicle and audio and recharge the battery(s), then yes - after the big-3 - an bigger alternator.
The main battery could remain as is.
If you have a charge lamp, then chances are that a plain relay can be used as an isolator.
PS (next day) - did you have your battery checked, or have you determined drains/loads?
If money isn't an issue, you can always try reds or yellows or greys and ha-ha-smart isolators and see if that delays or fixes the problem (after all, a superior solution must cost more - that's logical isn't it?).
Posted By: neil001
Date Posted: June 22, 2010 at 5:38 PM
I called around to some local auto parts places looking for h/o alternators and Optima batteries.. most places I've found don't keep Optima's in stock, and "won't know the price until I order it", and the only place I could find that had h/o alternators in stock wanted 315.00$ for it. So I kept that in mind and called a battery only shop, he told me that he does have Optima's but if I bought an Odyssey (don't remember what model or w/e) I wouldn't need an h/o alternator at all, the battery would suffice "as it is used in army tanks".
Posted By: neil001
Date Posted: June 22, 2010 at 5:44 PM
hit Post by accident.. Anyways..
I was wondering what you guys thought of this? Should I pickup an Odyssey (keep in mind he quoted me 300ish$ for the battery too, which honestly I don't mind paying if it really works reliably as they say) , and do I ditch the cap while I'm at it? I've got the cables for the big three that's gona get done asap (yes, I know.. I should have done this along time ago lol.. I'm probably the worst procrastinator there is, was, or ever will be) Should I pop in an h/o alternator while I'm at it in case of future upgrades? (ie. more amps)
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: June 22, 2010 at 5:59 PM
Tell him to put your alternator in that tank with the O-battery.
If it lasts the day, then he's right.
Otherwise ask what size alternator the tank has.
If it's bigger than yours, the you obviously need to buy that tank charger as well. (I'm kidding, but based on what you said, dikheds like that pss me off.)
I take it that no-one has tested your battery?
Noone has checked what your drain is? (So when your $300 battery karks it, you go and buy another because warranty will NOT cover it. I don't suppose per chance it was a salesperson trying to sell you a battery?)
As to the big-O batteries, though I was keen on one, I recently changed my mind (if cranking is involved). The other I have long had doubts about and one of their marketeers did little to improve that (read: he "confirmed the bullsh").
Search herein to see what others say... Kinetik came up a few times.
But eliminate drain and charge problems before you wreck any new battery.
Posted By: audiolife
Date Posted: July 02, 2010 at 9:25 AM
If your battery died or drained you must check to see why. If the battery is not that old there has to be a reason as it sounds like it might be sulphated which means somehow it is getting undercharged. I would get a ctek charger and try to bring back the battery you already have and keep the charger for when you do replace the battery and have the electrical checked. It is always a good idea to check the resting voltages of you batteries and if you notice the voltage resting a couple tenths lower charge it.
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Ack!
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: July 02, 2010 at 9:13 PM
Thanks audio for the backup.
The number of times people replace alternators (& regulators), check & redo their distribution etc only to find it was their (3 month old new $350 Optima) battery that had failed, or replace their (cranking!) battery with a $350 Optima only to have it go flat too because of some drain issue....
Both situations can be avoided with a $10 DMM.
But some love trial and error - it's the fun of finding your own solution.
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