I just got done installing an sub and amp in an 05 Dakota with a stock system. I used speaker level inputs off of the rear speakers, ran my power cable to the batt of course and ran the remote lead to the cigar lighter power under the dash which is Acc power since the OE head unit doesn't have a remote lead.
Everything seemed fine after the install but what I noticed is if I play something that has lots off lows driving the sub, the airbag light turns on. If I adjust the fader all the way to the front (kills the signal to the sub) the light goes off. It takes a couple seconds to respond but it definately reacts to the amp driving the sub. Find music with very little lows and it doesn't come on.
I'm guessing there is some sort of signal interference where the remote or power wires are under the dash. Perhaps too close to the airbag ECU or the clock spring wires? Anybody see something like this before??
are you absolutely sure you didn't tap into the airbag wires thinking it was a speaker wire? sometimes they twist airbag wires together and they look like speaker wires if you dont test them and i know a few people who have blown their airbags because of it. did you hook the LOC up behind the radio or at the speakers?
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I tapped into the speaker wires right at the radio harness and speaker wire right to the low level input on my amp. I used the following wiring info that I found elsewhere because the wiring info on here is not correct for the year. I'm not sure what airbag wires I could have accidentally tapped into there.
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fusebox for switched power.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark GREEN/ Brown
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Brown
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark GREEN/ Dark Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark GREEN/ Orange
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Orange
Also, I can turn the balance left and right and hear the sub working (albeit at a lower volume) equally in either direction. I would think if I hit a wrong wire, one side would be dead.
Now I am wondering if I accidentally tapped into some airbag stuff when I tried to run the remote wire to an Acc power source under the heater controls. I thought I went to the Cig lighter power which is Acc only....
I am going to unhook the remote wire from the amp. Hook a test lead up and jump the remote with 12v constant and crank it up. That should at least tell me if the remote wire is to blame.
One other thing. Is there a prefered location to tap into to trigger my am on these CAN bus systems? Any acc lead?
Looks like it was simply a bad amp. I noticed the amp power light going in and out dependant on lows in the music even after I jumped power to the remote terminal. I had a duplicate amp, swapped it out and all is well. Perhaps it was grounding out the remote circuit screwing with the airbag system somehow.