so i want to amp my system

So im going to be amping my system and was thinking about running 2 4 channel amps in bridged modes to drive the front and rear speakers respectively. I havent been able to find a 4 channel amp that will drive my CDT audio speakers at the 130 RMS rating unless I want to spend close to 500 - 600 bucks.

So why not use 2 4 channel amps in bridged mode to deliver that power? Is there anything negative about doing this? Has anyone done this? Heres a diagram of what im thinking about doing. Ive tried fining my answers through google but cant seem to find this particular case for some odd reason..



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A little insanity never hurt anyone

Guess I forgot to mention a few details:

2008 Nissan Titan XE
CDT Audio CL-62 Components for the fronts
CDT Audio CL-6EX Coaxial For the rears


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A little insanity never hurt anyone

Someone? Anyone? Nobody? Ouch

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A little insanity never hurt anyone

cute diagram

according to the model of speakers you gave they are 4 ohm speakers.  When you bridge the amplifier channels the resistance at the amp will drop to two ohms.  You will have to find an amp that is stable bridged at that resistance.  Otherwise the amp will overheat/fail or just sit in protect mode.  But other than that you can do it.  Keep in mind you don't need to feed those speakers the RMS rating of power but if you want to you will have to spend money.  5-600 bucks for a two channel amp pushing that kind of power isn't a bad price.  Generally good amplifiers you will be paying 1-2 dollars per rms watt.  Decent rule of thumb to go buy when shopping for amplifiers.

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2008 Dodge Ram 1500
MECP Certified Advanced Installer CEA 191700

I do it every day. I have a PDX4.150 bridged to my mid-bass in my doors. Potentially overpowered? Indeed, but I know the limits of my gear, and I never get that far into it.

Go for it. It'll work like a champ!

ben d. You are wrong. If you bridge a 4-ohm speaker to any amp, you still have a 4-ohm load. If the amp is stable bridged into a 4-ohm load, he'll be perfectly safe. Yes, the amplifer "effectively sees" 2-ohms per channel, but that's because the current output doubles, the voltage is doubled across the SAME 4-ohm load, creating four times the power. It is the doubling of current that makes the amplifier "feel" like it's making more power, or driving a lower impedance. It's still powering a 4-ohm load.

I realize that's in a perfect world, and it's per Ohm's Law, but I think this is what you have in mind. Regardless, the total impedance attached to the amplifer is 4-ohms. Speakers don't simply change their impedance.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Thack79 wrote:

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cute diagram

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Haha thanks... I figured someone would like it :P

haemphyst wrote:

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I do it every day. I have a PDX4.150 bridged to my mid-bass in my doors. Potentially overpowered? Indeed, but I know the limits of my gear, and I never get that far into it.

Go for it. It'll work like a champ!

ben d. You are wrong. If you bridge a 4-ohm speaker to any amp, you still have a 4-ohm load. If the amp is stable bridged into a 4-ohm load, he'll be perfectly safe. Yes, the amplifer "effectively sees" 2-ohms per channel, but that's because the current output doubles, the voltage is doubled across the SAME 4-ohm load, creating four times the power. It is the doubling of current that makes the amplifier "feel" like it's making more power, or driving a lower impedance. It's still powering a 4-ohm load.

I realize that's in a perfect world, and it's per Ohm's Law, but I think this is what you have in mind. Regardless, the total impedance attached to the amplifer is 4-ohms. Speakers don't simply change their impedance.

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Perfect this is just the answer I was looking for. And yes im going to overpower them but im not going to blow them if I have my gains down. With a setup like this will i lose any L to R or front to back fading ability from the headunit? I dont see why I woulnt....I get asked why not just run a 4 channel with more power? Well damnet im on a budget, so why not try something like this? I also want to make shure my speakers have all the power thier built for and are ready for whatever I throw at them imo. I dont forsee myself blasting them up that loud for fear of going deaf, its just knowing I can. Thanks for the help guys!

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A little insanity never hurt anyone

Diagram reminded me of the Styrofoam cup telephones. lol
Yeah as stated above everything should be good.
One thing to keep track of the Channel separation. Since its a 4 channel amp. Make sure the channels you are bridging are on the same side.
Ie. channel 1+2 are both LEFT speaker.
and channels 3+4 are both RIGHT speakers.

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you never posted which amps you have. they ARE the same amps aren't they? mis-matching amps would be the only problem i can see

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Yep their both the same:

SPECS
x2 Jensen Power 760

RMS Power (4 ohms)     75 watts x 4 channels
RMS Power (2 ohms)     100 watts x 4 channels
RMS Power (1 ohm)     N/A
Bridged RMS Power     190 watts x 2 channels
Total RMS Power Output     380 watts
Peak Power Output     380 watts x 2 channels
Total Peak Power Output     760 watts
Maximum Input Gauge Size     8
Minimum Impedance Unbridged     2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged     4 ohms
THD at Rated RMS Power     1%
Speaker Level Inputs     No
Preamp Outputs     1 pair
Built-in Crossover     Low-pass (LP)
High-pass (HP)
Full (AP)
High-Pass Crossover Frequency     40 - 300 Hz
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency     40 - 300 Hz
Subsonic Filter     N/A
Signal-to-Noise Ratio     100 dB
Channel Separation     60 dB
Bass Boost     N/A
Bass/Gain Remote     No
Fan Cooled     No
Fuse Rating     20A x 2
CEA-2006 Compliant     Yes

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A little insanity never hurt anyone

And I thought bridging meant out of phase connections hence half the impedance to the "virtual" ground (mid point), or a 4R between 2x4R outputs looking like 2R to each.

Not that I'll probably ever care - I'll go as high impedance as possible and bridge internally if needed....