this a good amp for 2 12 type r’s?

i am looking at getting this amp: https://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ2100-1D-D-Class-Block/dp/B0036B8US4/ref=sr_1_38?s=STORE&ie=UTF8&qid=1285870538&sr=1-38

Is this a good choice for my 2 12" type r's? I read that the new hifonics brutus amps for 2010 are cea certified, so they put out the power they state. My subs handle 1200 rms total, and i figure running 1700 rms gives me a little extra headroom so the amp aint workin so hard.

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Disturbin' Tha Peace

I couldn't possibly recommend anything Hifonics.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

If you are trying to keep the speakers submerged in water, and they keep floating, then yes this amp will be a good choice for your speakers.  Other than that situation, read the previous post.

lol thanx yall! I have heard that hifonics used to be good, but they kinda went downhill in recent years. Anything yall would recommend then for my r's? I have the dual 2 ohms, and they are at 2 ohms at the amp. I am looking for something around 1400 to 1800 rms into 2 ohms, I want a little headroom so the amp aint workin so hard. I am lookming to spend no more than $375, but the cheaper the better. 250 - 300 would be better.

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Disturbin' Tha Peace

i am an idiot wrote:

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If you are trying to keep the speakers submerged in water, and they keep floating, then yes this amp will be a good choice for your speakers.  Other than that situation, read the previous post.

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^^awesome^^ aka. boat anchor

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rboutin2 wrote:

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lol thanx yall! I have heard that hifonics used to be good, but they kinda went downhill in recent years. Anything yall would recommend then for my r's? I have the dual 2 ohms, and they are at 2 ohms at the amp. I am looking for something around 1400 to 1800 rms into 2 ohms, I want a little headroom so the amp aint workin so hard. I am lookming to spend no more than $375, but the cheaper the better. 250 - 300 would be better.

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hampster on a wheel > Hifonics.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but here it is up front and honest.  What you are looking fore doesnt exist.  If you want a good amp, and 1800w RMS.  you are going to have to spend at least $500 unless you catch a good sale.  that is a min, for a good amp, not a great amp.  Most good amps are going to cost between $.50- $1.00 per watt.  What you are asking for is about $.07 per watt.  I know that there are a lot of "1800 watt," amps out there at the price you are looking for, but they r not really 1800 watts.  Here is the math behind it.  the laws of electricity...  watts= voltage x current @ 100% efficentcy.  First nothing is 100% efficient.  second, your car is 12v-14.4v usually. if you take a $300 "1800w amp," it is probably fused between 30-40 amps.  for the argument lets say 40.  so take 14.4v x 40a= 576w at 100% effecient.  to be honest amps that are marked with 1800w stickers and are fused at 40a are usually 70% at best (usually lower). so u take that 576w x 70%= 403.2watts.  If you can memorize that watts= voltage x current, amp shopping for the rest of your life will be better.  Keep in mind to this point in the equasion we still have not looked at Ohm's.  that will also play a role, but i am not getting into that yet.  Those Type R's are nice subs and i recamend a nice amp for them.  Your best bet is to save up some more cash until you can afford to put a good amp on them.  One nice amp is the alpine V-power series.  you could maybe run 2 of those 500 watt monos,  and be good. one on each sub.  AND you can often get a really cheap deal on them.  I have seen them on sale go as low as $.25 per watt.   The idea with the 2 is, you take one good alpine amp and run it on one Type R, until you can afford to purchase the second amp in the future and hook up the other sub then.  Just something to think about.  Good luck. 

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If your cousin is such a good installer, and he will install anything for a 6 pack; why are you talking to me?

afdanw, you are kind of right but its really not as bad as you are thinking. usually, an alright amp like a hifonics 2000ish watt amp will be fused at around 80 amps. 80 x 14.4 = 1,150 @ 100% efficiency. amps are not 100% efficient, class D more like 75-80%, so on an amp thats fused at 80 amps should give you close to 1000W. and that explanation is basic. you still need to account for the power supply design and the frequency you are trying to reproduce.

now, rboutin2, your main problem is the fact that you bought subs that are dual 2 ohm which means that the lowest ohm load you can make when you wire the 2 of them together is 0.5 ohms which 99.9% of amps out there will not handle. so you will have to settle for having your subs wired to a 2 ohm total load.

here's why that's a problem. most amps out there rate their max power @ 1 ohm and their power output will go down as the overall ohm load seen by the amplifier does up. so if you buy an amp like that hifonics that will do 1200W at 1 ohm it will only give you maybe 600-700 watts at 2 ohms and even less at 4 ohms. take that 700 watts and split it between 2 type R's and you have very under powered subs.

you would need to look for a true 3000 watt amp rated to give it's full power at 1 ohm so you can compensate for the power decrease from running it at 2 ohm and still have enough power for each sub.

you would probably be better buying 2 amps rated for about 800 - 1000 Watts at 1 ohm and just put one on each sub.

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You could try a Alpine MRP-M2000 if you want that much headroom, but with that much power your also looking at a alternator upgrade. It get's costly.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

i agree with yall. I know im asking for a lot for a little, but just thot maybe yall knew something good. I have an mrp-m1000 right now, and its overheating from trying to push the type r's. It barely even got warm on my 12" treo rsx subs. I was considering an mrpm2000, but those are a little much power for what i need. Am i mistaken in wanting more power than what the subs can handle? like if i got a 1200 rms amp would it be pushed too hard trying to fully power the r's? And, btw, i got the dual 2 ohm r's cuz I figured the mrp m1000 would push them pretty close to perfectly. apparently i was mistaken, cuz the amp cant piut out enough for them hungry r's! lol

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Disturbin' Tha Peace

Its not overheating from trying to push the type r's.  Its overheating because it is starving for power...That amp you have is a good match for those subs when set up properly.   Buying a bigger amp will only make matters worse.

whatdya mean its starving for power? I have 4 gauge wire from the battery to the amp, with a 100 amp fuse under the hood. It has about a foot of 4 gauge ground wire. The system when bumpin at idle never dips below 13 volts. Even on really heavy freqs. Its all in a stock 95 ranger 3.0l v6. I know it should be a close enough to perfect match for my subs, thats why i bought the amp in the first place. I bought it used tho.

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Disturbin' Tha Peace

When voltage drops, current rises, thus causing an increase in heat.  I doubt very seriously that your system is maintaining 13v while running that amp.  Check power at the amp with a good volt meter to see what it drops to...  If you are reading voltage off a capacitor, first off get rid of it, and second the voltage it reads is probably not correct.  If you are looking at the dash gauge, its probably wrong.   

What enclosure are these subs in?  That amp has plenty of power to run those subs if everything is set up properly...

i used a multimeter to check it. I dont have a cap. dont see the purpose in them. The subs are in a custom enclosure right around 2 cubic foot per chamber, aero ported to 32 hz. The amp is mounted the the jump seat on the driver's side. It gets hot enough to the point where it cuts the output in half, then if you keep playing it, it will go into protect mode. The subs are wired to 2 ohm load at the amp. As far as I can tell, everyone SHOULD work, but it don't.

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Disturbin' Tha Peace

why dont you get an 18 to put in your ranger like me? its great. its true, your amp could be starving for power but i dont think its likely. i run an autotek mean machine 2000.1D and it stays nice and cool. i do have a stinger yellow 1800 amp battery under the hood but my alt is still stock and my main ground is 0ga. i only drop voltage when i decide to burp my truck at a competition and then it's only as the bass drops below 30hz on a sweep. i could fix it if i wanted to but money is tight and its not causing any problems for normal listening.

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