total system overhaul

I'm about to sell my 2 type r 12s, 35 htz box, Alpine 500 watt amp, and Kicker cvr.  I want to go LOUD.  I'm keeping my JL 1000 Slash but that is all as far as bass.  Looking at Kicker L7 15s, Fi BTL 15(single), DD if they get back to me with prices, and maybe MTX(probably not).  Go the airspace for any of these I think but not sure about power.  I would probaly get another JL 1000 if I went with the L7s and run one to each.  Don't know what amp to get if I get the Fi or DD.  I'm pretty sure I can't combine 2 JLs and run them to one sub but someone clarify this if you could.  Also, what power upgrades will I need to run atleast 2000 watts rms?  I have a run of 0 gauge back to the JL right now but running stock batt and alt.  The lights dim some but not too bad.  I'm thinking another batt will be almost necessary but do I need a ho alternator?  and where can I get one cheap for a dodge 1500?  Haven't done the big 3 yet but I have almost 30 ft. of 0 gauge left so it will be done when I get the time.  I deffinetly want to be louder than a 13w7 in a ported box with JL 1000 Slash that my friend has in his Jeep with a reg cab truck. 

-------------
Jensen VM9214 Flip out, JVC 6x9's,Sony 6x9's Pioneer 6x9's, 2 Alpine Type R's in ported box, JL 1000/1 V2 Slash, Sony GTX6040 240 watt amp, Kicker CVR(Black), Alpine 500 (300) watt amp.

Another battery will just place another load on the alternator unless you have enough charging capability to charge them both which you probably don't .  Looking into a HO alt would be highly recommended.  Also replacing the stock battery with something that has better charging and discharging characteristics would be wise. 

I have seen a single 13w7 get in the 150's with two 1000.1's, not the slash series though.   The l7, FI, or the DD's could easily out do one on a single slash amp with a poor charging system though.  Bottom line, you need power to make power.  If your charging system is not up to par, your system will never perform at the level it is capable of. 

Enclosure will also play a large role in the overall performance of whichever sub you choose, and should be something you spend quite a bit of time designing when putting your stereo together.

if you want to go loud my first step would be to get rid of that jensen flip out in favor of something with a better output than its mono low voltage output. plus it will probably skin and or break under any kind of loud bass.

second, you have a regular cab truck. where do you plan on stuffing a 3+ cubic foot box? are you going to cut a hole into the bed of your truck and build a blow through box?

-------------

paidnfull wrote:

---

Another battery will just place another load on the alternator unless you have enough charging capability to charge them both which you probably don't.
....Also replacing the stock battery with something that has better charging and discharging characteristics would be wise.

---

Sorry - I have addressed this elsewhere, but the "extra load on the alternator" is incorrect in general practical terms.
If anything, a larger battery DECREASES the load on an alternator - not that that should have any practical significance (except perhaps when large loads exist, or alternator power diodes are too weak).

Also the "better discharging characteristic battery" is VERY dependent.
If the battery is in the stock location, "audio" advantages to AGM etc batteries are largely negligible.
A stock battery with a second (AGM) battery near the amp is a very different situation.
And for battery life etc, flooded (wet) batteries are better for engine cranking or if excessive discharge (flattening) occurs.

As to charging, AGMs might charge faster if "short drives" (like under say 10 minutes) is an issue. But they do not tolerate over charging - especially over-voltage.   


The rest is fine & good - ESPECIALLY upgrading the alternator if AFTER the Big-3, the charging battery voltage is too low - ie, is NOT generally between 13.8-14.4V.

So who sells a good ho output for a decent price?  And an HU with a 5v output would be a good upgrade?  My box right now is 5.7 cube foot plus port, reg. cab dodges have a lot of room.  Thanks for the input so far, I'm going to input some subs into winISD and see what would work the best. 

-------------
Jensen VM9214 Flip out, JVC 6x9's,Sony 6x9's Pioneer 6x9's, 2 Alpine Type R's in ported box, JL 1000/1 V2 Slash, Sony GTX6040 240 watt amp, Kicker CVR(Black), Alpine 500 (300) watt amp.

def by 20 wrote:

---

So who sells a good ho output for a decent price?  And an HU with a 5v output would be a good upgrade?  My box right now is 5.7 cube foot plus port, reg. cab dodges have a lot of room.  Thanks for the input so far, I'm going to input some subs into winISD and see what would work the best. 

---

regular cab? as in no back seat, no back windows, nothing behind the front seats except a wall? i have an extended cab ranger with a 6 cubic foot box and it takes up the whole back up to the window line and the seats go back just far enough for me to be comfortable. im not trying to be a pain, im just having a hard time trying to imagine how you have this set up.

you can get a HO alternator from ohio generator or iraggi but pay attention to the rpm at which the alternator produces max amperage. some will say it is a 300A alt but it only gives you those 300 amps at 3000 rpm which is useless for going through a competition line. you will want one that will give you close to max power at just above idle, maybe 1500rpm.

or if you have a local starter and alternator shop you can talk to them to see if they can take yours and re-wind it to make more power or maybe someone makes a pre fab dual alternator bracket for your truck.

and as far as a better HU goes, yes, you should upgrade in the long run. a good high voltage output will make your amps work better and sound cleaner without the need to turn them up all the way, although im sure you'll do it anyway. its not the most important thing in a heavy hitter but it sure does help.

-------------

Yeah, I would uplaod a picture but I can't.  Iraggi is no longer on ebay and the new site is not done so I can't see any prices or anything.  Ohio Generator also does not have any prices and I think you have to be a dealer to get prices.  wwww.powermustards.com has a 110 amp idle and 220 amp at 1200 rpm for $300 that I'm really looking into but I don't know if it will fit. 

-------------
Jensen VM9214 Flip out, JVC 6x9's,Sony 6x9's Pioneer 6x9's, 2 Alpine Type R's in ported box, JL 1000/1 V2 Slash, Sony GTX6040 240 watt amp, Kicker CVR(Black), Alpine 500 (300) watt amp.

you have to call them if you want prices. they dont trust their customers to just know what they need, and rightfully so. but give them a call if you want to check them out i dont think you need an account or anything.

-------------

Oh ok, I'll do that.  I decided to go with the 1 Fi or DD.  Looking at the audioque 2200 or 3500.  Going to do big 3 tomarrow, then ho alt when I figure out what to get and an aux battery (with isolator?), probaly a yellow top form oreily or somewhere.  Would this be providing enough power for these amps?

-------------
Jensen VM9214 Flip out, JVC 6x9's,Sony 6x9's Pioneer 6x9's, 2 Alpine Type R's in ported box, JL 1000/1 V2 Slash, Sony GTX6040 240 watt amp, Kicker CVR(Black), Alpine 500 (300) watt amp.

if you just want to be loud, them yeah you have plenty of power. if you want to run through a competition line, you can never have enough power.

-------------

If you want a "smart isolator" that only connects when charging, and you have a charge lamp, I have posted a few solutions - the best being the charge light (alternator D+ or L output) energises the isolation relay (grounded coil). It avoid the problems that expensive "smart isolators" have.

Most alternator charge-lamps will drive a normal relay (~250mA) and probably up to 1A - but be careful - though they make "sink" one or several 250mA dash bulbs, they may not "source" the same current. (And some sink less to drive circuits or relays that power dash lights.)   

If using BIG relays for 250A, 400A etc, then use the smaller L/D+ relay to energise its multi-Amp coil.

Don't forget to fuse or circuit-break the battery - relay - battery interconnection at BOTH ends as close as possible to each battery.


2,000W will require at least 200A.

Though there are bigger capacity batteries than yellow tops, you may want an AGM battery for its lower ESR - that depends on what the prime purpose of the battery is.
If the battery internal and NOT in an externally vented enclosure, then the battery must (usually) be sealed - eg, AGM.

And there are 14V battery options (for the extra 2 Volts - typically used by loud competitors and alternator-less racing vehicles (without CDI), but that depends on your amp quality (a good amp shouldn't care if it's 12V or 14V input).
[ Is an amp output higher with a higher voltage, or "plenty of power" (at lower voltage)? ]

If you are going for SPL, then avoid caps (most report higher SPLs with out them, hence their amp PSUs lack quality).
And otherwise avoid caps anyhow (compared to an adjacent AGM battery, they usually make negligible if any difference).


Many hereon reckon the Kinetic AGMs are good. Some reckon they are better than Optima - or rather - they last much longer.