’05 silverado bose issue

Where would you start diagnosing the problem of no passenger side audio at all (crew cab)?
I pulled the door panels and the speaker plugs/wires look fine.

I assume it is a moisture issue with the Bose amp under the console??

Best resolution?

Have you checked the Radio's balance control?  

Yup, F+R, L+R, nothing coming out on passenger side front or rear.

Remove the Bose amplifier from the rear of the center console.  Remove all screws from the bottom cover.  T-15 in size.  Lift the circuit board from the heat sink.  Inspect both sides of the board.  If it is liquid damage, you will be able to identify the area which got wet.  You may be able to clean the damaged area and resolder the components.

I have bucket seats, is it the same setup as the split bench?

If the circuit board is bad what do I need to do to just ditch the Bose amp system and replace the head unit? How do I get a new head unit to work with the installed speakers without the amp between them, or is that even possible. The Bose setup is a headache to say the least.

Thanks for your advice.

i am an idiot wrote:

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Remove the Bose amplifier from the rear of the center console.  Remove all screws from the bottom cover.  T-15 in size.  Lift the circuit board from the heat sink.  Inspect both sides of the board.  If it is liquid damage, you will be able to identify the area which got wet.  You may be able to clean the damaged area and resolder the components.

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The amp looks perfect, like I just pulled it from the manufacturer box, circuit board does too.

I noticed if I turn the radio up to max with balance set to passenger only, there is a little bit of sound coming out of the speakers but its definitely weak as hell. Is it possible that it could be the head unit? Its the OEM unit.

Scope your inputs from the headunit, and the outputs from the amp.  You probably could get away with a meter set to ac voltage, and just test a workin channel at each location, and compare your results to the non working channels readings.  Should give you a pretty good idea where the problem lies. 

Some of those amps are volume controlled with data.  The signal wires coming from the deck are wide open and not controlled by the volume control of the radio.  Meter set to AC volts, lowest possible scale if it is not an autoranging meter.  Ground the black lead and red probe to each wire at the rear of the radio.  I do not know if there is signal on both positive and negative wires, or only on positive.  I do not know if standard GM wire colors apply at the rear of the radio.  Turn the volume up a bit and see if you have AC voltage on 2, 4 or 8 wires.  If you have readings on 8 wires that coincide with the audio being played, chances are you may have a bad amp.  If you only have voltage on 2 wires your problem is definitely your radio.  If voltage on 4 wires, more research is necessary to see if you have signal on both positive and negative wires. 

Here are my readings.
Truck speakers
DC Voltage
Bottom
Blk w/ wht stripe-0.003
Blue-6.81
Blk-6.81
Grn-6.81
Lt brn-6.81
Purple-0.010
Sm Orange-0.635

Top
Lime Grn-6.82
Orange w/Blk stripe-6.82
Grn w/wht stripe-6.82
Brown-6.84
Gray-0.001
Pink-13.63
Big orange-13.63

i am an idiot wrote:

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Meter set to AC volts, lowest possible scale if it is not an autoranging meter. 

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With the DC readings you gave me, it appears that you should have signal on the 8 wires that read 6.82 volts.  With the meter set to AC volts and the radio volume set to a moderate listening level, does the AC voltage reading go up and down along with the peaks and valleys of the audio?  If you have fluctuating AC voltage on all 8 of those wires, chances are the amp is bad.  If there is signal on only 4 of those wires, the problem is probably the deck. 

i am an idiot wrote:

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i am an idiot wrote:

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Meter set to AC volts, lowest possible scale if it is not an autoranging meter. 

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Ok, I'll do that but what is the reason for using AC volts? That threw me for a loop, I thought maybe you had just suggested that in the case that I didn't have a DC meter.

Audio signal is an AC voltage.  Hence speaker moving in and out.  The 6.82 volts of DC tell me that there should be audio on those 8 wires.  If you are having trouble determining that the audio is on the wires, turn the volume all the way down and check the voltage, then turn the volume up and the voltage should increase accordingly.

Here's what I got AC volts.
When I would adjust the volume it wasn't affecting the meter reading.
@200mv Setting
Bottom
Blk w/ wht stripe-01.0
Blue-00.9
Blk-01.0
Grn-00.8
Lt brn-00.5
Purple-11.0
Sm Orange-40.4-110.4

Top
Lime Grn-00.5
Orange w/Blk stripe-00.4
Grn w/wht stripe-00.4
Brown-00.4
Gray-01.8
Pink-00.4
Big orange-00.4

Since the voltage does not change with the volume, I tend to think that this is one of the data volume controlled units. 

Do you have an old set of amplified computer speakers that you can sacrifice to do some troubleshooting?  If you do not have a set you can sacrifice, Radio Shack sells a 1/8 inch stereo panel mounted jack.  That along with some wire to make a probe will let us know what is going on.  If you have a sacrificial pair of amplified speakers, simply cut the plug off of the end.  Strip the wire back a bit to expose the 2 center conductors and the shield.  Solder wires to 1 or both of the center conductors and the shield.  Ground the shield wire to the chassis of the radio if possible.  There should be a 3/16 screw on the rear of the radio cover.  Loosen it and wrap the wire under it and retighten it.  Now with the wire you soldered to the center conductor(s), use that as a probe to touch to the wires you had 6.8 volts on earlier.  How many of those 8 wires do you hear audio on? 

You must have the speakers powered up and the volume turned up a bit on the computer speakers.  If you have the system I think you have, the volume of the radio does not matter.  Turn it down to make it easier to hear the computer speakers.  If no audio with radio volume down, turn it up a bit and test again.

hi,
can you identify the speaker wires at the amp and do a continuity test on each of them?.. should be thicker gauge wires twisted in pairs. also 'pop' them with a 1.5V battery? have seen intermittent connectors at speakers. when inserted fully speaker didn't work, unlatched and pulled back slightly, all good.
mark

Well I bitched out and took it to Dukes Car Stereo and paid the $45 to have them diagnose it.
Turns out the passenger side speakers are blown, the tweeter is fine.

So now Im in the doodiety position of either locating a front and rear replacement Bose speaker for the passenger side; or replacing the head unit and all speakers and bypassing the Bose amp(system) completely.

My worry is that I find two Bose speakers but at some point Im sure the drivers side speakers are gonna go too, then Im back at square 1.

Is there a Bose amp bypass plug or something available to simply bypass the amp if I go with new radio and speakers, or am I going to be stuck splicing the wires from the two amp plugs?

That was years ago.  The Bose speakers in your vehicle are 4Ohm speakers.  You can replace them with any aftermarket   6-1/2 inch speakers

i am an idiot wrote:

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That was years ago.  The Bose speakers in your vehicle are 4Ohm speakers.  You can replace them with any aftermarket   6-1/2 inch speakers

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Reeeeally? Are you positive? If so, I'll just replace all four door speakers.