battery drains using alpine mrp m2000

To start off I have a 1999 chevy blazer with an alpine mrp m-2000 amp pushing two alpine typr r 4 ohm dual voice coil speakers and planning on hooking up two more after my problem gets fixed. I have the stock 105 amp alternator and stock autoliv battery under the hood and a v-maxx dry cell battery in the back, 4 guage wires running to every thing other than from my v-maxx to a secondary 200 watt rockford amp that is only pushing my door speakers which is 6 guage wires. Just to mention my type r's are hooked up at 4 ohm and my amp is only turned up half way and my ground is from my v-maxx is to the chassis. Don't get me wrong the two hit hard, but my problem is when they are hitting my battery meter drains down real quick, the louder i turn them up the quicker it drains. Mostly when I am at a stand still but a little as I am driving as well, just not near as bad. I have been told to do different things by different people and would just like an actual answer that will stop my battery drainage problem instead of a run around of "this might help" suggestions. I dont have the money to keep buying things that wont make but a small difference I want to see the big difference and my problem to end so that I can hook up my other two 15's and not start all over again with the battery draining.

So, with this said what should I do?

Would rewiring using a 1 guage wire and replacing the 105 amp alternator with a 200 amp altenator do the trick or would i need more than that?

A higher power alternator would be able to charge your battery and run your system a lot easier. Your battery doesn't drain as much when you are driving because once you hit about 2000 rpms your alternator takes over. The alternator you have now is probably struggling to run the car, power your system, and give your battery charge.

I would probably switch 1 or 0 gauge wire, too. Four gauge wire is not rated for 2000 watts.

-------------
MECP Advanced
Make your life easier and buy a DMM.

what size alternator would be suggested all I can find in price range is either 150 amp, 200 amp and 240 amp that will fit my blazer. I have been told that if you get too big of an alternator it could cause damage if it produces more than 16 volts and I really dont want that to happen. I understand that it takes more power slamming but if I decide to go on a drive with my system turned off i dont want to risk burning out electronics. if that makes sence.

You need enough alternator Amps to supply the amps you require.
That depends on the alternator profile (amps versus RPM) and your driving style (average RPM & loudness).


Alternator size has nothing to do with over-voltage - they are all designed to provide (typically) 13.8-14.4V whether they are 1A or 1000A alternators (chargers).


If anyone said the solution to your problem was caps or batteries, discard their advice totally (unless they included the alternator or explained reserve time AND did NOT suggest caps!).


PS - and discard the advice by whoever said "too big of an alternator it could cause damage....". Fools like that do more harm than good and frequent places like Yahoo! Answers.
Any charger or alternator does damage over 16 volts.
And a BIG alternator cannot PUSH current into devices any easier than a small alternator (at a given voltage).
EOS.

with that being said do you think that a 200 amp alternator would do the trick? the truck came with a 105 and that would give an extra 95 amp or go bigger? the next up is 240 and theres a decent price difference in between the two and i wouldnt want to spend another $100 plus if it would be unnecessary

Geez chasedevine, you may not know that I am an audio ignoramous and do not like having to research for answers.... LOL!
[ Yes - I mean that light-heartedly. (Though I have no heart.) I gladly answer questions like yours - even if only to overcome (IMHO) stupid answers! ]


Ok, so Alpine MRP-M2000 is 2,000 RMS.
To wit from Alpine:
    * 3500W MAX x 1
    * 2000W RMS x 1 [2 ohm @ 14.4V]
    * 1500W RMS x 1 [4 ohm @ 14.4V]
[ Bitchy oldfart comment: Only RMS matters. WTH was that site that said it was 1500W RMS max and "output 500W"? ]
Yay! RMS. And at 14.4V. Yay x 2!

Ok - you have 4R (Ohm) suggesting 1.5kW max, but you have 2x4R which could be 2R hence 2kW.
But I'll use the supposed "max" possible power anyhow - ie, 2kW.

Hence at full power, 2kW is approx 200A. (2000W / 10V = 200A from P=VI.)
Why 10V and not 12 or 14.4? It's output, not input - so add inefficiency to input - say 20-30%? Besides, this is a design approximation and conservative. Besides#2, 10 is easier than 12 & 14.4!!

So if you run at 50% output power (ie, about 70% of full volume), that's ~100A.

Hence if the 200A alternator outputs 100A extra overall, it should do the job.

Somebody elsewhere wrote of their <whatever> alternator that puts out 200A at idle and ~270A at 1500RPM. I find 200A (>3 horsepower) at idle fairly high from what I have read of high-output alternators (especially if they are re-wound "standard" alternators) - but it could be...

That's where the audio and alternator profiles come in.


The best gauge (pun intended) of how well your system is keeping up is a voltmeter across the battery. At normal temperatures...
The voltage should (generally) not exceed 14.4V. Certainly not 16V or even 15.5V etc.
The voltage should normally not be below 13.8V unless idling or under (temporary) high loading - ie, below ~13.6V indicates undercharging.
At ~12.8V and below, the battery is discharging.

I agree you do need at least a 200A alternator, however not just any alternator. Just like car audio amps, there are alternators where the builders claim high output values from them, but your lucky if you get half the claimed power output....essentially 90% of the alternators available on e-bay.

If you want a quality alternator, you need to pay for it unfortunately. If your paying less than $1.50 per amp output, there's a good chance the alternator is junk.

Alternators that I can recommend for your truck are available here:

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/vaf/product/list/?id=4&category=%3F&year=24&make=52&model=180&engine=426

But specifically I recommend this one for your application:

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/8237-240-pro.html

If you can't afford the proper charging system, you can't afford your stereo..

-------------
2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

its not the fact of not affording it its just not wanting to throw down $300 on an alternator this week and still not be enough amp and turn around and spend $400 next week and have an alternator taking up space in the closet. But I greatly thank you guys for the advice and I will more than likely get the 240 that you suggested. Thanks again and I will let you know how it goes when i get it and hooked up.

To avoid re-spend, bigger is better.
And as many say, bigger is better anyhow. (To which I agree, but there is no need to get big(ger) without a reason...)

As I indicated, 200A may be adequate IF it outputs enough current in YOUR normal use...

But Alpine Guy not only has good taste (Alpine), but seems confident in his recommendation. (Remember me - "audio ignoramous" - meaning lack direct detailed experience...)
And IMO, his linked alternators are cheap - especially for a tailor made solution.


Apols for a wasted or non-reply, but to enforce my reply's shortfall, as well as a thanks and to second Alpine Guy's experienced advice.


I'm happy - I got my dig (as in insults) across, and OP got REAL advice.   

Best wishes!
[ Your next reply should be a success (else fail) unless other questions arise. ]