problems with mounting door speakers
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=12566
Printed Date: May 19, 2025 at 2:12 AM
Topic: problems with mounting door speakers
Posted By: glinx1
Subject: problems with mounting door speakers
Date Posted: April 22, 2003 at 2:56 PM
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant. The problem I've been having is keeping my speakers mounted in the door. The speakers are 6 1/2" which is what the door fits. But the thing is that the speakers fit inside a baffle which mounts to the door. The only way I can mount the speaker to the baffle is by hot glue. Twice so far the left speaker has come loose. Probably due to the opening and closing of the door and vibration from the bass. What is the best way to keep these speakers mounted? The eyeholes don't reach to the baffleeyeholes to be able to screw them in . And the stock speakers had a mounting plate that was the right fit, but it was all one piece with the speaker. Any suggestions?
Replies:
Posted By: glinx1
Date Posted: April 22, 2003 at 3:06 PM
My car fits 6 1/2" speakers in the front doors. The stock speakers had a wide mounting base that fit in a baffle that mounts to the door. My new speakers mounting base isn't as big as the stock ones so I have to use hot glue to mount them to the baffle. Every so often one speaker comes loose from the bass and from the opening and closing of the doors. I cake on an ample amount of glue when I'm mounting them, but they still come loose. Can anyone suggest another way to mount them and keep them on?
Posted By: Blazermedic
Date Posted: April 22, 2003 at 5:31 PM
Here's what I would do. I would buy some backstrapping (the stuff you use to secure your head unit in place in back of the dash.) It's flexible but still secure. Form the backstrapping around the mounting holes and then use bolts to secure the backstrapping to the speaker. Then, screw the backstraffing into that baffle. That's my best suggestion, but I can think of a few more if need be. I'm sure that some of the other installers on here will have other ideas as well.
Cary
MECP Sales
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Posted By: rick_21_69
Date Posted: April 22, 2003 at 8:40 PM
remove the factory mount wich should leave you with an over sized hole opening...( larger then 6 1/2" ) use mdf or msonite as a speaker mount and fasten the to the inner door panel, that should be more effective then even the factory mount. use the template sent with the speaker to make the cut out....go even further if you like and put a mdf baffle on the rear of the speaker to realy tighten up your bass response....if you baffle these with mininimum inside volume you can put a bass blocker on your tweets past your crossover and give them more power........taking there components...if not just do the above
Posted By: Blazermedic
Date Posted: April 22, 2003 at 8:43 PM
Okay, so his idea is alot better than mine. Use his idea...seriously.
Cary
Posted By: drvnbysound
Date Posted: April 23, 2003 at 10:36 AM
If you can use Hot Glue to attach the speaker to the factory baffle, I would assume that the base of the speaker does indeed touch the baffle, its just that the holes do not line up, correct? If I read all that correctly and that is the case, why not just drill some now holes? If that is not the case, the MDF speaker rings will be the best option.
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