excursion vs sensitivty

which one would be better to look at??? i like the the loudnees but i also love the spl...

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

say i have 2 tens one is rated at 87 db 1watt 1 meter with  excursion of 9 mm, and the other is rated at 84 db 1 watt 1 meter with excursion of 12 mm same amp same power, so which one should i use???

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

That depends on how much power the amp produces.  With a small amp, the 87 dB drivers will produce more sound than the 84 dB drivers.   If you have an amp that produces more power than the 87 dB drivers will handle, the less efficient higher power handling drivers will be a better choice.

wouldnt the excursion be in play with that as well , same amp same power handleing subs just those specs are different

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

Excursion is the amount of usable throw the sub has from peak to peak. It is also one of the most LIED about specs. Right next to sensitivity. Dont get to hung up on them.

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a lot of ppl think xmass is the "thats that" on loudness, but its not, sensitivity, xmass, VAS, and power all plays a roll when looking for a sub to rattle windows. (imo) i could be wrong. but i think vas has a big roll in it.

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ac delco am radio and sparkomatic 40 watt sound exploder

Very simply, sensitivity is analogous to the motor's strength, meaning how much it responds to a given voltage and current input.  Higher sensitivity means the motor moves farther in response to a given power input.  Xmax (excursion) is how far the motor can physically move.  Xmax is what limits SPL since acoustical output is determined by how much air is moved.  The swept volume of two similarly sized drivers will be greater in one with higher Xmax, and therefore it is capable of higher output levels.  It might take more power to get it there, but that's all.  The Vas (or compliance) of the driver determines the resonance frequency of a given enclosure volume (or more commonly, what size sealed enclosure will result in the lowest system resonance.)

You might also be interested in this:  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73962&PN=1

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thanks DYohn for that info i will try to figure everything out now whether i should use like 4 8" or 2 10" useing the same power to either of them i might even end up useing 4 8" in the back deck and 2 10" in the trunk with a bunch of sound deadener

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

rogggg1020 wrote:

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thanks DYohn for that info i will try to figure everything out now whether i should use like 4 8" or 2 10" useing the same power to either of them i might even end up useing 4 8" in the back deck and 2 10" in the trunk with a bunch of sound deadener

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Now we're talking about something completely different.  4X 8" and 2X 10" are pretty much the same surface area depending on the woofers... and I do NOT recommend using subwoofers in both the rear deck and in the trunk unless you use them in two different pass bands.  What is your goal with the system?

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rogggg1020 wrote:

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i like the the loudnees but i also love the spl...

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Ummm... Same thing, dude.

As DYohn asked... What's your goal? A longer throw woofer will GENERALLY go deeper, with an OUTPUT sacrifice to that... That's not necessarily a hard and fast rule, but a generalization. What drivers are you considering, and again, what is your goal? Do you want sheer output? Do you want musicality? What amplifiers are your considering?

All of these answers will allow us to help you better.

well im looking at RE audio 8's...and or pioneer 10" pro series... i been in audio for about 20 years now when dr crankinstien was the considered one of the best. but im just used to calling the company and finding out what size box i needed and build out of patical board then and now mdf (mdf wasnt heard of then around my town) for 2 12" i always made the box 5 cu ft with 2 4" ports 12" long that worked for me and all my friends. so now im running 2 kicker comps 10" common chamber @ 2.95 cu ft with 160 rms sealed, i been running that for about 3 years now i been measured @ 132.4 db with them. now im wanting better and louder. i just got my fatmat in yesterday, and now im trying to deceide on my subs, amp (s) , and mids and tweets. since i been a huge fan or us amps and just now found out that they make RE audio then im considering them, but pioneer has been in my favorites list for a very long time... so any help will be considered and appreciated.. and btw budget is small compare to alot of others but its not as small compared to what it use to be

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

sorry for the extra reply but where should i start with the fatmat at since for now i only have 50 sq ft

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

I'll leave it up to others to make specific brand recommendations to you, but I do have a couple of comments.  First, building a generic enclosure size and expecting it to work is fine as long as you don't have huge expectations.  If you really want the best out of any speaker, you need to model it (or follow MFG recommendations) and build to the specific specs of the speakers you are using.  Secondly, as far as using any vibration reducing or sound deadening material, where are the problem areas in your vehicle?  What is vibrating now?  Start there.

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well the generic set up was then thats why im here now, im slowly learning winisd, but im pretty stuck on those 2 brands after alot of consideration im sticking to those 2 for speakers and subs, my trunk lid is the worse thing that rattles the most but i have checked very closly and it seems that my trunk seems to be 2 pieces thats welded in very small places that i cant get behind except in about 12 small slits about 1/2 in by 2 inches, i thought about useing expanding foam but i know i will end up putting to much inthere and causes ripples in the outside skin.

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

trunks are tricky to make then not rattle. try some rubberized undercoating in those cracks that you cant get into. it comes in a spray can probably at any autoparts store. then once that dries after applying as many layers as you can spray, try stuffing soft packing foam in the holes wherever you can fit it. and then go over it with your fatmat and make sure you apply it with a heat gun and a roller or it wont be as effective. also, make sure the license plate has something behind it to keep it from rattling and put all four screws into it if it isnt done already. lastly adjust the trunk latch a little bit so that the trunk is harder to close and it will give you a tighter seal and the trunk lid wont be able to move and vibrate as much in the first place.

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the only place it rattles is from the center to the back window and about 3 ft wide area in the middle next to the window, its really doesnt have a round edge its pretty much flat across the back window, now as far as the subs im gonna go with the RE audio srx10" dual 4 ohm, its has better sens then my kicker comp 10" subs and alot better excursion too, now if somebody could give a hand with air space and port tuning thru the back deck it would be appreciated..

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

thanks sound for the advice, license plate is secured with jut pad and some fatmat with 4 screws, does that rubberized coating have a straw to spray thru so i can get into the openings that i mentioned earlier in the thread??

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)

and those RE audio subs i would like to have tuned to 27 hz if possible

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roger (95 cougar 4.6 stock expect the stereo)