best amp for the price

hey i was just looking for some input about good powerful amps for the price. im really wanting anything between 3000 RMS and 3500 RMS, but all input would be greatly appreciated! thanks

How much are you spending on alternator and batteries?

im hoping to keep that as cheap as possible. every alternator i have found is around $400 and i dont even know where to start with batteries. you have any suggestions about that? what difference will that make when it comes to the amp?

For 3500W RMS output you'll need an alternator that puts out about 400 Amps.

If the amp puts out less power if its input voltage decreases, then whenever the alternator cannot supply the amp's load, you will lose output power.
That's because when the alternator is adequately sized, it'll put out usually 14.2V to 14.4V at the required current (Amps)
If it can't, the voltage will probably drop to the battery voltage which will be less than 12.6V.
That's a 23% drop in power (for voltage-variable outputs).

And cheap amps tend to vary their output power with input voltage.
(Quality amps shouldn't - their output should be steady between whatever voltages - maybe 8V & 16V, or 12V & 15V, or 13V & 14.4V etc - but I don't know if such quality amps exist - others hereon can advise. IMO, quality hi-power amps would never depend on 12V distribution, nor low-ohmage speakers!)


If you follow most (other) car audio forums, they will tell you to get bigger batteries instead of a bigger alternator. That's because they are idiots else don't care about having only up to 12.7V instead of 14.4V etc, else have a vested interest... (I'm not sure which).   

We will tell you to start with a copious alternator.
Then you may want batteries NEXT to the amp to ease distribution issues (surges etc).
For SPL comps you'd probably want high ESR batteries whereas to fight dips you'll want low ESR batteries.

If the amp's thumps are too big for the battery (thereby killing it), then a bigger battery else higher ESR battery else a big cap will help.
Many use AGM batteries which have about half the ESR of wet batteries, but they do not handle huge currents as well. Yes - they will supply larger currents, but that can damage them.
AGMs are usually used because it is a legal and safety requirement in a non-vented enclosed space. Some use them for their low ESR thinking that's good for their amps (despite many knowing that caps LOWER their (peak) SPL results!) and thinking that being able to supply a high current means it cannot be detrimental to the battery. (It reminds me of fools that think that if dolphins are around, then there are no sharks BECAUSE sharks are afraid of dolphins. Yep, there are gullible and gourmetable idiots everywhere... YUM!)


The latter views I express may not reflect those of others others hereon....
And I have given a brief summary that flies in the face of much of what is expoused elsewhere.
But I do not make any money nor gain material benefit from MY advice....

Good luck finding an amp that puts out that kind of real power for what you might think of as a reasonable price.  What are you planning to do with it anyway? 

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im gonna put it on 2 incriminator audio death penalties. not sure what size yet or what kind of setup. im trying to stay away from a wall but trunk room is gonna be an issue.   i have a 2000 toyota camry so thing are gonna be tight.

Hmm just looked those up and I for one would never spend money on a subwoofer where the manufacturer didn't publish the T/S parameters... but if you're planning to drop a couple grand on subwoofers, don't cheap out on the amplifier. 

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The name of those subs sound ridiculously crazy, i'd love to hear if they live up to the name.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

audioque? 3500.D?

they do live up to it. lol.   my buddy has 2 21s on a mmats 3500d.1 in a chevy astro and its hitting 161.2   they are by all means ridiculous.       and ive looked into the audioque 3500.d and im very impressed.      on the other hand it is kinda crappy that the manufacture doesnt publish the T/S parameters but if you get ahold of the company they will provide you with them.

Just go online and purchase 2 bamf 5000/1s you wont be dissapointed I have 1 now and its very amazing

bamf's are some garbage. they dont have nearly the true output as high end brands.   power acoustik is awesome if you wanna hit like 145 db or so.   im lookin more toward the 160 db range. thanks tho man.

According to our Standards, 145dB is "instant damage" to hearing.

But like most things, sound-level requires definition.
At least the OP specified RMS power.
(Though its relation to SPL baffles me....)


At least if peak SPL is the aim, I won't have to tolerate a discussion of caps & AGM batteries - just a 4kW alternator. How nice for a change!