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Best Amp for 3- 10" Subs

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=12650
Printed Date: July 06, 2025 at 11:41 PM


Topic: Best Amp for 3- 10" Subs

Posted By: monkeymanafrt
Subject: Best Amp for 3- 10" Subs
Date Posted: April 24, 2003 at 12:06 AM

My friend has 3 - 10" Pioneer IMPP Subs, 4 ohms ea. in a sealed box and he needs a good amp. We want to run them parallel. What do you think is a good amp between $200 - $400? :errr:

Ryan




Replies:

Posted By: wvsquirrel
Date Posted: April 24, 2003 at 1:05 AM
I'm assuming you're referring to the TS-W29C's?
If you are, then you've got 3 4ohm SVC subs rated at 120RMS 450Peak per sub.

You're essentially looking for a decient 360watt minimum amp? BTW, if you run them in parallel you would have an apx 1.33ohm total load (not recommended for most amps).

Option 1) IMO you would be better off running 2 of the subs (instead of 3) in parallel for a 2ohm load and getting a mono amp. You'll save $ on an amp (since just about every mono amp is 2ohm stable) and will get better response.

Option 2) You could find a Class AB 2-channel amp to do the job (again with only 2 subs), but it would need to be apx. 120x2@4ohms and/or 240x1@2ohms (bridged). You'll pay a little more for a 2-channel amp that is 2ohm stable bridged.

Option 3) One thing you could do if you wanted to keep the 3 subs, is get a Class AB 4-channel amp that was rated at apx. 120x4@4ohms and 240x2@4ohms (bridged). Wire 2 subs up to the first two channels (4ohms, 1 sub per channel) and get the 120watts to each of them. Then bridge the 3rd sub to the other two channels (since you would only be bridging one 4ohm sub, your total ohm load would remain at 4ohms even though you were bridging 2 channels). That sub would receive apx. 240watts (which is still well under the 450Peak). Now you've got 2 subs running at apx. 120watts each, and the 3rd running at apx. 240watts.

Option 4) Now, if you have the money and the time to look....
You could get a Class AB 4-channel amp that was 2ohm stable when bridged (thats important!) and apx. 120x4@4ohms, 240x2@4ohms (bridged), and 480x2@2ohms (bridged). Here you would bridge 2 subs (wired in parallel for a 2ohm load) to the first 2 channels. Each of those subs would get apx. 240watts each. Then bridge the 3rd sub to the other two channels (since you would only be bridging one 4ohm sub, your total ohm load would still remain at 4ohms, just like in Option 3). That sub would receive apx. 240watts as well. Now you've got 3 subs running at apx. 240watts each. Watch your gains since you would be running over the RMS rating of the subs.

Hope that helped.

-------------
Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
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Posted By: wrencher_25
Date Posted: April 24, 2003 at 12:49 PM
Kicker also makes a nice Mono block. It's the 600.1 Model. It's a class D amp rated especially for subs. I know that it is expenisve though. (Well, in Canada anyway) So it's about $600 CDN and that should work out to about $20-30 American right? ANYWAY...that amp rocks. Give it a check out on the net.

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Andrew Weitzel

MECP First Class Installer




Posted By: speedwayaudio1
Date Posted: April 24, 2003 at 10:02 PM
how about getting a 4th sub and a 4 channel amp and run it all on a 4 ohm load. 1 sub on each channel.

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Big Dave




Posted By: Big Purds
Date Posted: April 25, 2003 at 4:19 AM
if you just want to buy an amp for a reasonable price to throw on the subs and drive away, look at a JBL BP600.1...

stable at 1 ohm, and will do just over 600W at 1.33 ohm...shouldnt over drive your subs too badly if you put them in a sealed enclosure and dont pin the gains and bass boost controls...





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