how many batteries for system?

Hey ppl...lookin at how much batteries i will need for my system...

I'll be using...2 powerbass XA 3000D

2 Rockford 1050's and a Kicker 850.4ZX

Any help will be appreciated as to how much batteries il need an type

Thanks

Oh using an XS power 200amp ALT an a 50 farad Cap

Three bits of data/info are lacking:

What is your average power drain?
(The total amp fusing is ~520A so your alternator will only handle about 30% of their max... if you are at copious RPM.)

What do you expect your average alternator output to be (in addition to other loads)? (IE - how much for the amps.)

What reserve time do you want from the batteries under the above conditions?

(A fourth question is how long do you want the batteries to last, but few seem to factor that...)


Otherwise maybe others ca offer advice, or - if you prefer a "rule" I have been made aware of recently - get 100AH of battery per 1kW output - eg, say 400-500AH. Mind you, I have no idea what that rule is based on - I suspect someone added an "H" to the traditional "100A per 1kW" 12V-load rule.


The cap is probably only useful if you aren't going for competitive peak-SPL, or if you want to protect AGM batteries. But since you already have it, you may as well use it.
Flooded batteries won't need the cap for protection, but the cap will hold up against their higher voltage dips for a few seconds, or a few tenths of a second. (Your cranking battery probably has well over 100 times the reserve of that cap; probably over 1,000x.)
But remember - flooded batteries must be in a vented enclosure (engine bay else sealed container vented externally.)

If skimping on (AGM) batteries, avoid deep cycle - they dislike high current even more than cranking AGMs.


Remember that when the alternator isn't coping, the system will soon drop from 14.4V to (probably) 12.4V or less - hence about 25% less power (output) for many amps according to their specs.

Since this involves reserve time and battery life, I thought I'd link to mp3car's Smart Battery Isolator (post #12) where I work off a 2-page battery spec.

In that thread, the load (current drain; 200mA) is known, as is alternator output (zero) and reserve time (1-3 days).
But it touches many aspects involved in these AUDIO battery questions...
LOL - I even make a comment on NOT heating batteries for extra capacity (see below). That could be one of the dumbest stupidist (and expensive) suggestions I have ever heard except that there have been so many recently (on certain car-audio forums or by their members) that it is really difficult assigning a moronity level. (Full points however for those that make those cretinous suggestions in order to make money or help the economy - allegedly that's Capitalism at its best!)


FYI:
The following are from Yuasa's Product Info library.
The reason I provide them is their concise 2-page pdf with graphs that convey temperature, load etc effects on batteries.   
- For a simple graph of temperature impacts (capacity, and life), see UXF Series. EG - a 10 year battery lasts 1 year at 60°C (120°F).
- For battery selection - see NP Series
- For info on the UPS batteries I am using in my vehicle (simply because I obtained a few - they were intended for camping applications!), see UXH Series. DownUnder here, the UXH100-12 (100AH) & UXH120-12 (120AH) cost only a bit more than 50AH Optima batteries.

I'll consult our amplifier engineer Rich Coe on those XA-3000D's for you for exact draw on peaks. But rule of thumb would be if using Kinetik, add up the RMS rating on the amp at the particular load you'll be running and get the appropriate number of Kinetik batteries.... If all amps are loaded down to minimum impedence then 3000x2 + 850 + 2100 = 8950 watts RMS. Sooo figure 4 - 2400 Kinetik's and you'll be safe. Remember to beef up your cables to your alternator and fender as well or else you may as well be running the system on 8 Gauge... Lemme know if I can be of any more assistance. - Frankie, Powerbass Tech

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Francesco Buldo

Let me guess... 3000W RMS => 6kW peak => ~520A@14.4V, but over 600A at battery voltages.


What is that Rule Of Thumb based on? An acceptable level of dip (of certain length), or a minimum Kinetic life span?

I'd be more grateful to find those details. Nobody seems to be able to qualify them, hence readers end up with great systems whose batteries last a few weeks, or lost competitions but with great battery economy.

Also find out if he knows anything about the "100AH per 1kW" rule. Note - that's not the usually "estimate" of 100A per kW, but 100AH of battery capacity per kW (output).
It may be related to the Kinetic ROT, but I'd like to know if that's for deep cycle or high-current (cranking) batteries, and whether AGMs, etc.

So, Spark... How many 9v  batteries does that equal...?  ...BTW...Good to see you...!!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Too easy! FOUR.

3 in parallel to give 3V which are added in series to another 9V to give 12V.

Though I do recommend an isolator for the paralleled batts when not in use.
And a sensor in case one of the parallel 9 Volters fail - that would increase the remaining 2 parallels to 6V, hence a total of 15V and blow your loads.


Ah, it's so good knowing how to accomplish these simple tasks.     

CAVEAT for readers - do not try this at home. Or work. Or anywhere for that matter. Though not destructive (other than the 18V that would occur), the above is total rubbish.


Good to have you back (again?) Tommy.