sub wiring problem

I have read many a forum post and looked at umpteen wiring diagrams yet I still do not know what to do here.
I have two dual vc 12" L7 subs. They are in a sealed enclosure where each sub is isolated with it's own banana plug terminal. I want to wire them to 1 ohm without cutting the enclosure or running extra speaker wire between the subs outside of the enclosure. Can it be done, and if not, could I parallel wire some type of inline device that could reduce the resistance the same way that an additional sub would?
Thank you for your time and assistance.
Chrisv213

Sorry: 2006 Lincoln LS Sport
Pioneer AVH4300dvd, Hifonics HiFi3000D Mono, Hifonics HiFi55.4, Soundstream BX-20Z Bass Processor, (2) Kicker 12" L7 Subs (4)Hifonics HiFi6.5 Components, (2) Rockford Fosgate 6x9 Coaxials, Supplemental Kinetic 800 Power Cell

I am assuming that the woofers are dual 4 ohm. Is this correct?

chrisv213 wrote:

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could I parallel wire some type of inline device that could reduce the resistance the same way that an additional sub would?

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https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~93248~PN~1

What model are your subs?  How are they wired to the terminals on your enclosure?

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Sorry I have ben away from my computer. My subs are 12" Kicker L7 Dual Voice Coil Solobarics.

Since each sub is isolated in it's own chamber, the way I have them wired gives me 2 ohms at each terminal. I have one wire from each neg terminal coming together and running to the negative binding post on one side of enclosure box. Repeat for positive wire on positive terminals and then repeat positive and negative for sub two on the other side of enclosure. So I basically have two seperate sub enclosures that share a dividing wall. I have each set of speaker wire attatched via banana plugs running back to amp and secured to seperate terminals on the amp. I know that both sets of terminals on the amp are connected internally, so is the amp seeing one 2 ohm load, two seperate 2 ohm loads , or as my friend says, is my amp wired to automaticallyreduce that load down to one ohm. I can not find any diagram or article that instructs how to wire the subs to one ohm unless I remove the barriier by tearing up my enclosure or run speaker wire back and forth on the outside of the box. Both of those options are a bit too ghetto for me

I just want the most out of my system since I have poured way more blood, sweat, and CASH into this system

If I am understanding your wiring schematic properly, then your amp is seeing two two ohm loads. If you want a one ohm load, you will have to daisy chain the first boxes positive terminal to the second, and the first boxes negative terminal to the second likewise. This will yield four 4-ohm voice coils all connected in one parallel circuit, assuming I have visualized correctly.

chrisv213 wrote:

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I just want the most out of my system since I have poured way more blood, sweat, and CASH into this system

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I can definitely relate to that feeling.

P.S. One thing comes to mind...

I guess I really am not quite sure what you mean: "I have each set of speaker wire attatched via banana plugs running back to amp and secured to seperate terminals on the amp."

Do you have four sets of wires running to the amp (all using individual terminals), or two? If you have two, my above explanation does not apply...That's one reason I ask, the other is in case you are running a stereo amp and bridging two channels, in which case I am not aware of any amps that can handle a bridged one ohm load...

Do not run one set of speaker wires into a 1 ohm load. We have not yet determined that your amp is a one channel amp. It may be a 2 channel amp that is capable of driving a 2 ohm load per channel. This does not mean it is capable of driving a 1 ohm load on one set of the wires. There is an easy test using an ohm meter to see what you have.

If he indeed has an Hifonics 3000D it is a mono block

It is capable of running 1 ohm

Parallel the 2 subs together and run to amp for 1 ohm.

Sorry! Sorry!! Sorry!!! I apologize profusely  for being away so long, i hope you guys have not tuned out for good. I got caught up in another thread and neglected my own.

Anyway... I appreciate the feedback and I hope I can clear up a few things, as I said I hope you all are still tracking this thread, as I still have not figured this out.

I am very sure my amp is one ohm stable. It is a Hifonics HFi3000D.  The issue I have , the reason I can not just parallel the two L7's together, is the enclosure is sealed and each sub has it's own sealed compartment. I would either have to drill through the dividing wall or snake a bunch of speaker wire back and forth on the outside of the box. Neither one of those options will work for me. Now, I understand that both sets of speaker inputs on the amp are connected internally, so wouldnt that prevent the amp from "seeing two two ohm loads?" I am asking, so do not mistake the "quotation marks" as me being a smart ass. That's kinda what it looked like to me. Also, to answer the other unanswered question from above (I wish I could figure out how to upload a diagram to this forum. If anyone does, please enlighten. You can email me private so as not to anger the forum Gods by straying so far off topic. chrisv213@gmail), I have two pairs of speaker wire (one each + & - from each sub) running to the amp. Each attatched to it's own terminal, but since they join together internally, that doesn't really matter. Reversing direction now to let you know the rest of the wire path. The sub enclosure has two terminal caps, each with one  positive and one negative post dedicated to each individual subwoofer. So on the inside of the sub box, each subwoofer (isolated in it's own chamber) has a positive wire from the positive terminal of each voice coil, twisted together and secured to the positive post of it's respective terminal plate. (I use heavy duty gold plated binding posts that accept banana plugs. I just got used to them in all of my home audio systems) Then, as stated above, two runs of speaker wire, one from each sub, to the amp. Each wire has a dedicated positive and negative terminal, but they are connected inside the amp.

Alrighty then, Department of Redundancy Department. Hopefully I have covered everything at least twice. If any of the past posters are still out there, suggestions are greatly appreciated. BTW-the system sounds ok. Pioneer AVH-4300BT head unit, Hifonics HFi 55 four channel (110 x 4 rms @ 2 ohm) pushing Hifonics Zues 6.5" components in all four doors. I have a pair of additional tweeters in the front center console and a pair of Rockford Fosgate 6x9 coaxils in the rear deck lid. That makes eight speakers on the four channels. Each quadrant of the car has two speakers that are wired together so the amp sees two ohms. I also have a Soundstream processor that cleans up bass and boosts voltage to the sub amp, up to 10 v.  My battery is in my trunk so I do not have any long power runs (I use 0g and 2g power/ground cable any way) and I also have a Kinetic 800 power cell right next to the battery. The digital readout on my main fuse holder reads 14.4 - 14.8 when the car is running, and only drops to 12.9 - 13.5 when engine is turned off. I have a 150 amp alternator. My reason for dumping out all the minute details of my system is that while it sounds ok, its not where I think it should be, both in terms of overall spl (a victim of my alternator, I am guessing) and sq (who knows, soundwave interference between the speakers maybe. I could possibly have too many.  ;))

OK, I am done for now. Thank you in advance for all of your wonderfully helpful and detailed responses.

So, you are telling us that each sub is wired to 2-ohms at the external terminals, yes?  If so, you simply treat them like Qty 2 X 2-ohm SVC subs and use the wiring wizard.  You can wire for either a 1-ohm or a 4-ohm load on your amp, your choice.  Then be very sure you set the gain properly.  Check the Hot Topics forum for instructions how to do that.  You only need to use one set of output terminals on your amp.  Using two is simply a waste of wire and a potential error amp-frying if you cross them up.

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I was told that because the terminals on my amp were connected internally, that they are essentially the same terminal, there was no way to cross connect them. I could get positive negative wrong, I guess, but that would just switch polarity, correct?

Also, as far as the wiring on the subs: Yes, I guess they are wired like two 2ohm svc subs, but I can not just wire between them to create one ohm because the enclosure is two sealed chambers. I do not want speaker wire running back and forthe between the subs on the outside of the box, and I do not want to cut the enclosure up either. And BTW, the wiring wizard does not give you the option of choosing two 2ohm svc speakers. I think I know how to parallel them without the wizard, but not without either of the two scenarios mentioned above.

1. Have the speaker wires going from 1 enclosure terminal to the next, in parallel, and have the second terminal wired to the amp.

2. Wire one enclosure terminal to one amp terminal, and wire the other enclosure terminal to the other amp terminal -or even the same terminal the first sub is wired to.

Done.

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

I have it wired like example #2 now, That is 2 ohms. I want it to be at 1 ohm. Would example #1 bring it to 1 ohm?

If you have each sub wired to 2ohms, and you have the subs wired either way I described, the final impedance IS 1ohm...

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

So nlet me see if I understand. By having the subs wired to 2 ohms at each respective box terminal, once i combine the wires, in this case at the output terminal on the amp, the load becomes 1 ohm, yes? In the case of example #2, you are just combining the wires at the  sub box instead of at the amp.

Cool. Thank you very much for the info and patience. I am a pretty intelligent person, but jumping into this car audio world with both feet and no prior training, it can be a lot to absorb.

You are making this FAR more difficult than you have to... seriously.

Your DVC woofers are parallel connected at each woofer, right? DVC 4-ohm woofers can present either an 8-ohm load (when wired in series) or a 2-ohm load (when wired in parallel).

You have told us that your woofers are *each* wired in parallel. That's a 2-ohm load, per woofer.

Take one set of speaker wires and run them from ONE SET of banana terminals to one INDICATED +/- PAIR on the amplifier. It's a mono amplifier, it will not matter WHICH set you choose, just connect one woofer to the amplifier.

Now, once that's done, DO EXACTLY THE SAME THING WITH THE OTHER WOOFER TERMINAL SET, except connect THOSE wires to the remaining (should be unoccupied) +/- terminals on the amplifier. Again... It's a mono amplifier, the two indicated + (positive) terminals are connected internally. Likewise with the two indicated - (negative) terminals.

If you follow these simple steps, you will be running your amplifier at a 1-ohm load, I guarantee it.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

 Yep!

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001