alternator, battery, or cap

i'm getting different information from each installation person I speak to. I would like to know what actually determines if I will need second alternator, or higher output, additional battery, capacitor or all of the forementioned. I have a 2000 blazer 4X4 with an alpine hu and three amps: 2 memphis sc16-sc2.120 for front(components 70 RMS) and rear door speaks (65 RMS) plus, JL Audio, JL J2 1000.1 for the sub (Kenwood KFC-XW 1225db).

Thanks in advance,

-TuType

Oh farque, you listen to audio forums and experts don't you?

Well it depends on what you want.


If your alternator isn't big enough you will:
- drop about 2 volts whenever the load exceeds alternator output;
- maybe flatten your battery if not recharged enough during driving;
- maybe replace your battery more often due to its extra use.

You will need a second battery if:
- you want an independent battery for the amp when not driving/charging;
- the voltage drops at the amp are too large during surges/burps.
- the amp's current surges are too destructive.

You will want a cap if:
- the current surges damage your battery [ie, an AGM battery next to the amp(s) in BIG systems (typ >3kW)].   


Apart from the last (which is generally the only reason for a cap), the others depend on your application (street, competition); your finances (can replace batteries often); your amp output power versus input voltage - and if that matters.


I bet the reason you have previously gotten multiple answers is because no-one has specified else determined what you want.
Plus if it is from the forums I have seen, they essentially give random answers with little relation to reality.

Its just the common answer I have also gotten when I have went in and asked questions of sale's men at different shops. Even told them my lights were dimming even when I had the rpm's at 3500 at idle.

The most popular answer has been you just need to get a cap and that will fix your problems. That will keep your lights from dimming when your bass hits.

Another place said one of these dry cell will fix all of your problems.

None of the places said anything about what I really needed a better alternator.

Ah well, now that I know your question.
A cap will fix your problem, though a small AGM may be cheaper and superior.

I assumed you had an audio question, not a light question.

oldspark wrote:

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Ah well, now that I know your question.
A cap will fix your problem, though a small AGM may be cheaper and superior.

I assumed you had an audio question, not a light question.

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I was just responding.

But when I had my system a cap did not fix anything. I had 2 1 ferried band-aids just off the main amp. It was a joke. I got them for free so I figured I would try them. I also had large battery. At the time I was running a old Fosgate Power 500, a Fosgate 250 and a old Hifonics VII Vulcan amp.

I was just pointing out what I was told by stereo shops.

Sorry, my bad - I didn't realise you were not the OP.
I answered the light-dipping for the OP's set-up. (Though I should have mentioned the Big-3 - not that I described HOW to implement the fix.)

Yours (dragon) is a different situation. You wouldn't put caps at the amps to fix dipping lights (in general).
And only "one" big battery or a bigger 2nd battery? (The first situation is especially useless.)

And that no-one suggested a bigger alternator? Geez, they weren't "audio experts" were they, or did they know that your alternator outputting (say) 14.2V under load?   


The solutions to most AUDIO problems are covered by my first reply, though I omitted distribution/wiring (eg, the Big-3) and only considered audio and charging and not other problems like dipping lights.

What's an AMG battery?

Thanks in advance,

-TuType

Dunno.
But AGM is Absorbant Glass Mat, aka VRLA = Valve Regulated Lead Acid.

I use a Optima Yellow top for my battery its a type of AMG there are others. Some don't like Optima very well, but I have not had any real problems from them. I also use them very hard, I use it in my Jeep with a Warn 8000lb winch.



Oldschool Ya they were audio experts, the one place is a large chain store. The other is a run of the mill. Either way they did not know anything. lol

Ouch, yellows are not good for high drains (eg, cranking and winches) - usually reds are used.

Alas I cannot recommend Optima. I hear or read far more of their failures than anything else, and Optima(Jim - former(?) Optima eCare manager) was unable to supply any data/info to counter that.
However IMO many of those might be attributed to incorrect application - eg, a yellow top as the sole battery and used for cranking, or crankers used to power amps when not charging, or deep-cycles with big amp thumps etc.
And of course all vary so much - starter and amp currents, wiring resistances etc.


People often get AGMs for the wrong reasons.
For audio & winches etc, the setup should be a second battery (probably AGM) but with a standard wet/flooded cell as the main battery - unless rich enough to upgrade that too.


As to audio experts, excluding the12volt, my experience has been broad. You may see my other posts herein that comment on the FloridaSPL site (there are some people with good into, but OMG sme others - like engine-bay mounting for more battery capacity, the "100AH per kW" rule, etc), but there is heaps more.
Unfortunately my recent findings support the (now-)theory that correct web info is diminishing - the incorrect (and costly) info is swamping the truth.


But we should let OP tutype lead the comments & questions rather than us hijack with other discussions...

Except they do not recommend the Reds for winches they will not even warranty them if they were used for that. But the yellows they will https://www.optimabatteries.com/optima_products / YELLOWtop/index.php

I have never had any real problems with them and the one I did they Autozone gave me a brand new one.


What do you recommend? If my Optima fails I need a sealed battery, so when I dump my Jeep on its side I don't have to worry about the battery.

Its also good info for the guy who started this thread.

I might be confusing my reds, blues & yellows (blue = marine; red = cranking; yellow = crank/deep compromise etc deep?)

But winches (like BIG audio) are a problem - they are often used to a great DOD (depth of discharge) but also have a very high current - so which battery type do you chose? Cranking is clear - high current but short discharge.


Locally I'd probably choose Deka (based on my batt shop's recommendations) though I'd be very keen to try a Yuasa UXH UPS battery - the UXH100-12 (100AH 12V) is ~$500 which is $50 less than the Optima yellow RRP (~70AH). (It's also $150 less then the 38AH UXH38-12 I am currently using as a cranker!)

I used to think highly of Odyssey (as I once did Optima) though my shop also reckoned no (like Optima, too many returns).


Stateside many recommended Kinetic, though I recently read good things about one of the "Platinums".


Alas whether this is good info is questionable. We know nothing of the OP's desires.
And too much info confuses may. (And some may be mere opinion...)


But yeah, other than maybe NOT addressing the OP's issue/s, I generally like extra info and POVs (but not deliberate scams etc!!).

Rubbish.
Or rather, it's as much rubbish as saying "do not use petrol/gas or batteries" etc because they too blow things to pieces.

A battery is equivalent to millions of Farads.
Ever seen a battery blow up or an AGM go into thermal runaway?
I know of far more battery injuries than I do cap injuries.   


However, caps are usually a waste of money, their main use being to protect AGMs else remove lighting etc sags without the complications of another battery (even if that battery only costs $10).
But as a means of extending power... Like I said, a battery is millions of Farads.