big 3 on factory alternator?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129640
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 8:55 AM
Topic: big 3 on factory alternator?
Posted By: xnitr0us
Subject: big 3 on factory alternator?
Date Posted: December 10, 2011 at 10:17 PM
I have a 2004 mustang 3.8 with a factory alternator 130amp? (i think) and id like to upgrade the big 3 (alternator + to battery +, alternator housing ground to battery -, battery - to chassis body since its convertible) and im wondering if its a good idea to do before I get a HO alternator? i have the option to do it now but will it damage the alternator? do you have a good suggestion for a HO alternator for a 2004 mustang 3.8l? how many amps 250? thanks!
Replies:
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 11:12 AM
It's always a good idea, IMO. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: xnitr0us
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 11:17 AM
it wont damage the alternator by pulling more current as im allowing it to with the 0G wiring? I just replaced my main battery with a warrenty replacment and was wondering if it would help to add a Kinetik 2000 in the trunk on my 130A alternator with the big 3 or is that to much on stock?
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 12:55 PM
You can't draw more than the alternator can supply.
And the alternator is supposed to supply the loads - not the wiring loses. (Reducing the losses should not damage the alternator.)
For warranty reasons, I suggest adding the extra grounds and cables rather than replacing.
How would a Kinetic help? AGM I presume. For extra batteries, AGMs may be good or required (ie, if needed to be a sealed type), but for general cranking etc standard cranking flooded batteries are usually best.
For big audio, winches & big reserve loads, a 2nd battery is usually best (with auto-isolator).
An extra battery will not "add an extra load" despite what many say. Or rather, in practice, it reduces the load on the alternator and can extend the life of both batteries (provided suitable non-use isolation is provided) - ie, load sharing - expecially if cranking).
Posted By: xnitr0us
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 12:59 PM
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 1:05 PM
An isolator is necessary. Permanent connection reduces the life of the batteries and can leave you stranded...
I'm not keen on voltage controlled isolators except when required (eg, stator systems).
For systems with charge lamps, isolation via any charge-lamp controlled relay is fine.
The relay size depends on what you want (eg, if cranking, up to full cranking current; for audio, the full audio load plus recharge current etc).
Don't forget protection (fuses or breakers) at both battery ends.
Posted By: xnitr0us
Date Posted: December 11, 2011 at 1:12 PM
ive got a regular battery under the hook, 0G going to the rear to a 40 amp hour (vision x XPC-400) batterys (+), 0G off the battery (+) to dual 4G distro block to my amps. battery (-) and amps ground to chassis. and needing the isolator? correct with a standard 130A alternator, can you suggest where to get a HO for a mustang 3.8? hard to find and dont know reputable companys. thanks for the help!
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: December 12, 2011 at 12:12 AM
Do you need an HO? No idea where, but I recommend a specially built HO - not a rewired standard alternator (unless you don't need the HO, then a rewired st'd "HO" alternator is fine lol).
You have fuses at each end of the battery interconnect? Else good physical security? (Or are the battery terminals or cable the fusible link?)
An isolator should be used to prolong battery life.
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