what sub/amp combo to purchase?

Hi all, It's my first post here but here goes.

First what I have:

Vehicle: 2009 Ford Falcon XR6 FG 6spd Sedan:
https://www.carshowroom.com.au/newcars/reviews/629/2009_Ford_Falcon_XR6___Car_Review

Head-unit: Clarion CZ501A

Front/Rear Components: Alpine SPR-50c 100Watts RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms

Front/Rear Amp: Clarion XH5410 4 channel amplifier 90WRMS x 4 @ 4 Ohm

Sub-woofers: Clarion WG2510 10" SVC 300Watts RMS x 2 with Clarion XH5410 4 channel amp running bridged, 640Watts RMS.

Wiring: 4GA Positive and Negative to Battery - Amplifier. Front,Rear and Sub RCA's are all Sony.

Currently running with a 1 farad capacitor but a 2 farad will be here next week some time.

Now for the upgrade.

I am basically looking at the Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D 1200Watt RMS @ 1 Ohm amplifier and two Alpine Type R 10" woofers 600Watt RMS each.

Amp link: https://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Brutus_BRZ_Amps.html

Subs link: https://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=108

The reason for 10" woofers is personal taste, Space constraints and music preference.

Now for the questions:

Will this Amplifier/Sub-woofer combination allow for maximum Wattage to be attained from the subs?

Is there something better for the same price?

Will I require new/larger power wiring(0-1-2Ga)or will 4Ga be fine?

Should I be running a capacitor at all? I can notice slight dimming of the headlights at high volume during idle with the 1 farad cap.

I plan to get a far better unit then my factory battery:
Optima Yellow Top 740CCA, 55ah, Reserve cap 120 minutes.
https://www.optimabatteries.com.au/Products/OptimaYellowTop.aspx

I think that will suffice for now.

I am very open to suggestions and being told what for if I'm wrong, so don't hold back, I'd rather feel silly before I buy then after.

Appreciate it, Thx in advance!!!

The amp to the subs is great, you dont really want to always keep everything at its highest volume if you want your equipment to last you.  So there is no issue there.

There is usually something better for anyones price depending on who is listening to the system.  So as long as you like the way it sounds and like decent quality as you have displayed from your choices, then get it, but make sure you buy from an authorized dealer.

You have over 2000 watts running with your system per your post, I would go to a lower gauge wire just because resistance is something no one wants, so the more wire, the less resistance...plus I have 4 200' rolls of 0 gauge wire

Yeah, keep the cap, the more power helping is the better.  It isnt your cap causing your issue, its a voltage drop, I would upgrade the alternator before anything else because the start of your electric line is your alternator, then battery so more batteries without upgrading your alternator first is only hurting you because then it now takes the alternator twice as much work to charge the battery because there are now 2 batteries.  So alternator first, then battery, then back up betteries/caps.

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BP

How much would a roll of 0Ga power wire cost shipped to Innisfail, Queensland, Australia 4860??

I assume you mean 2000 watts peak on the Hifonics? Should be 1760 Watts RMS total with the new subs when I include then splits. I really hope to see a big difference in the punch the subs deal out with the alpines. My clarions punch hard but if I swap over to the low bass tracks they lack power.

I measured the the mV from the negative terminal on the capacitor to the chassis and got around .02mv is that ok?

It wouldn't even be worth it to ship, you'd be better off on eBay for it.

Yeah, if it's RMS is 1760 watts its peak is definitely over 2000 watts, so I would go with 0ga.

And that should be fine with the .02mV, just make sure you're using a bare metal ground with no paint in the way and not a part that's bolted on to the chassis, you want a direct chassis ground.

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BP

I've actually got a 4Ga power loop(Positive from battery under the hood to capacitor in the trunk then back) This should be causing a lot of Resistance according to a lot of stuff I've been reading but I only get .02Mv so I was a little unsure.

https://www..au/itm/1-0-AWG-GAUGE-AMP-KIT-AMPLIFIER-WIRING-CAR-AUDIO-0GA-/360378460826?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e83aea9a#shId

Is that wire any good.

Sorry to ask so many amateur questions!!!

DB Link PW0BL50Z 0-Gauge 50 Feet Power Wire (Blue)

The mods wont allow you to post things for other websites concerning selling/buying things. But if it is the DB Link 0ga, it is good stuff, I use it pretty often and would recommend it.

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BP

Oops, my bad. Cant delete but I notified the mods so they can remove my posts.

It must be awesome being able to own such awesome systems over in the great states. Australia is extremely expensive for stereo equipment. The two subs and amp where quoted 320% higher then the price I'll be paying on the net.

DAMN! That is insane! The best place to buy electronics is indeed the internet. It is so much cheaper than any store can offer. Got any pictures of your current setup?

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BP

Yep,

Aftermarket headset bellow the factory unit, in front of the gear knob.

Carbon fibered the trims myself. Factory was silver.



Subs behind rear seats forward facing.



Rear Splits



Whats in there

Sold my current subs today, So I will be ordering the new gear once I get the money together. CANT WAIT!!!

Looks good. Post pictures of the new stuff when you get it.

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BP

Certainly will, Just found out one of my auto electrician friends can source me as much 0Ga wire as I need FREEBIE :-D awesome news. Plus all the 0Ga lugs.

Ordered the Hifonics and the two Alpines from the states, should get to Australia in 2weeks or so.

Checked what my alternator puts out today, apparently it's 130Amps. I want to upgrade my battery to the Optima yellow top but with 1700W RMS and 0Ga wire will the alternator have a heart attack so to speak?? Unfortunately I cannot simply strap any aftermarket alternator onto my car as it is still under manufacturer warranty.

Another couple of questions:

I have 0Ga wire traveling from the battery in the front to the boot, Will this require a 350amp ANL fuse or less?

Is it best to run my 0Ga ground wire to the chassis or back to the battery terminal?

Also can I run the 0Ga power wire from the battery to the capacitor in the boot then from there just go 4Ga to the amplifiers or do I have to stay at 0Ga to cancel out resistance and provide the correct power the mono block?

Just read that you should multiply your total RMS wattage by your voltage, so if I have 1500RMS the I require a 150amp ANL fuse. Is this correct.

I thought you where protecting your wire, Not your amps with your forward fuse.

The amps should have fuses on them, just add up how much the amps fuses are and use an inline fuse that big. Example (2) 30 amp fuses would be 60 amps. Your inline fuse should then be 60 amps. You're exactly right, you need to protect the wire and that is how. Also, you're fine with dropping down to 4ga wire after you run the 0ga to the capacitor provided it is within about 18" of the amps. The best thing is to bolt your ground wire to the chassis of the car. And that isn't true for the fuse to use, so don't follow that.

There is a test to get approximate true wattage which is: although your amp may say 1700 watts, but if it only has (2) 20amp fuses on it that is 40amps total, multiply that by your battery voltage when on, usually 14.4v and you'll get the closest to the true power of the amp which would be 576watts when the car is on and 12v when the car is off so 480watts when the car is off.

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BP

4 channel has 2 40amps and the mono block has two 70amps, 220amp ANL fuse then?

That's exactly correct.

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BP

Grabbed this: https://www..au/itm/270889784863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


And these: https://www..au/itm/400269204080?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Nice.

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BP

Amplifier arrived this morning.

Scratch that, Subs are here also :-D

Awesome, that was some FAST shipping!

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BP

Ordered it all last Tuesday night so they would have left Wednesday haha, really impressed.

Taking pictures like crazy is kind of sad but doodie I'm excited to hear these things!!! HAHA. I cant believe the weight of them and the quality, amazing sub. The dust cover/surround is so stiff, hard to see how the voice coil will move it(should be super punchy), Bought new tools for the install as well, sick of poor quality tools.

lol @ S#!t turning into doodie!!!

haha, that doodie lol. But just make sure you build the box to spec for the subs and they will hit HARD! If you need help with a box specs, let me know and I will help.

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BP

I really wanna go sealed for space reasons. So what volume would you go for a dual sealed enclosure, Just follow Alpines recommendation?

Optimum Sealed Box:

    External Box Dimensions 12.5" x 12.5" x 10"
    Gross Internal Volume: 0.60 ft³
    Net Internal Volume: 0.50 ft³
    F³, Qtc: 46Hz, 0.90

per sub obviously :-D

Fired up the Hifonics with a PC Power supply just to make sure she runs after freight and admittedly to see the lights haha

Yeah, those dimensions are the best, provided you have the room of course. But rather than just doubling the size and putting 2 subs in it, I would do a dual chamber box so its really 2 boxes in one. Here are the dimensions based off the above dimensions.
External Box Dimensions 12.5"H x 25.75"W x 10"D and put a divider dead smack in the middle of the box that is the same size as the depth and height of the box. So put the divider at 12.875"(7/8ths). And lastly make sure to use PLENTY wood glue and to predrill your screw holes with a 7/64ths bit.

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BP

3/4 MDF?

Yes sir.

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BP

So it's all in and working, UNTIL, I sheared the thread off the capacitor!!! My new battery will arrive in 1-2 days so I'll be able to power it all up fully then, pounds pretty hard at the moment tho.

That sucks, but glad to hear you like it.

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BP

New Wire arrived today, Looks like 0Ga but could very well be 2Ga.

How do you like that HiFonics amp? I know they were good back in the 80's, but they are awful "inexpensive" for what they "say" you get. I want to get some opinions before I buy. I am running JL audio on the rest of my system

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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

Well I can definitely say it has no worries pushing the hell out of my twin Alpine 1043D's. For the price I don't think you can go wrong. The only thing that would be a con so far would be that the fuses are frozen in the amp, For fear of breaking the amp I cannot get them out. I have read a few reviews saying the same thing but as long as you fuse your wire correctly I don't see an issue. And the best part is if it breaks after 2 years you can buy another one haha, sooo cheap. If your looking for a cheap escape it's without a doubt the answer.