highfonics amp dead in 2 days

I installed a highfonics 1500 mono amp on my system my speakers are wired at 2 ohm they are 2 12in infinity.They worked great for 2 days then nothing and the amp done.I do have A capacitor hooked up but after reading the post i wont be putting that back in the system.I have the amp pushing 1000 watts which is below the max. should i install one these batt. that you guys are tallking about if so what kind and size. Any help would be great. Dont want to smoke anthor amp.

please give more details on how you came up with them "wired for 2 ohms"

how do you know you only using 1000 watts?

where is the amp mounted?

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

I've had mine for 1 1/2 months and it seems sturdy. Cross my fingers.

If you didnt have a relatively new battery, then I would suggest a new battery with a another in the back. Wired in parallel to your front battery with a relay in between the batteries.

BUT if you can upgrade to an High Output Alternator I would suggest that first, then go with batteries. Try to invest into a stinger voltmeter so you know if your voltage is low because that burns amps quickly. (trust me) But i have never had a problem with my hifonics in 2 years.

I would go with a battery about 60AH. if you keep the battery you have now without getting a new one.
https://www......com/item_17903_SHURiKEN-SK-BT60.html

I personally have a little more than 300ah for my 4500Wrms. im running a hifonics brutus BXI2408D(and 2 more amps) on my subwoofers at 0.5ohms but i also have a 200amp alternator to hold the charge...



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I can't hear you!

I followed the wiring diagram on this site for 2 speakers duel voice coil 2 ohm. I am assuming 1000 watts because that is what the amp is rated at when wired for 2 ohms.The amp is mounted to the box.

Thanks for the info i am going to add the batt and toss the cap out.Then monitor the voltage if it is low then comes the new alt.

May as well keep the cap if you have it. (PS - though I wouldn't include it as an extra connection (ie, distro block) between the alt/batt and the amp/s.)

Caps are usually needed for bigger systems (>4kW) if AGMs are used, otherwise the AGMs tend to fail prematurely unless they are huge or manifold.

But otherwise caps do zilch. A typical car battery is equivalent to about 2,000F.
Alternatively, 1F = 100W for 1 second - not that you extract anywhere near that energy - 10-20W is more like it.


Otherwise, yes for a big alternator sized for the load.
And a voltmeter is the best way to determine the health and behavior of the system, though (non-analog) digital voltmeters aren't sited for showing fast dips etc.

And since many amps don't seem to exhibit true SMPS behavior, low resistance power is essential to combat sags - hence why often secondary AGMs are placed near the amps.
Though high currents from the alternator will still sag, IMO concentrate on minimisation of resistance of the near-battery to amp ground and +12V cabling to minimise voltage sags, though that's of little benefit once significantly below the battery's resistance (which increases with age, flatness, and decreasing temperature). But if the alternator's ~14.4V is more important, then concentrate on its +12V & GND resistance, though a battery's surface charge is pretty good for keeping ~13.6V for a while (it still beats many Farads worth of caps).

But so much depends on what is desired. EG, SPL competitors reckon no caps for higher peak SPLs (yet they use low-resistance AGM batteries!).
It really becomes a compromise of different factors.

and if you haven't already, PLEASE do the BIG 3 or 4... research it and get information about how it helps decrease resistance and increases overall efficiency of your system.

USE 0-gauge wire so you dont have to upgrade it later. Search it on here also. I should have a big thread about how to do mine.

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I can't hear you!

 Thanks for the info i will be upgrading the big 3 this weekend before installing the new amp.

how long is the ground for your amp? how big is the wire? is it screwed tightly to bare metal with no paint in between?

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The ground wire is about 2 feet long and is 2gage it is secured to a factory ground point in the trunk and has less than .05 ohms of resistance. I DO HAVE ONE MORE QUESTION THE AMP IS A MONO AMP BUT HAS LEFT AND RIGHT INPUTS DO I USE A Y CABLE AND RUN BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT OUTPUTS FROM THE HEAD UNIT TO ONE INPUT?IF SO WHICH ONE AND WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF THE OTHER? I KNOW THE SPEAKER OUT PUTS ARE WIRED PARALLEL SO IT DOESN'T. MATTER WHICH ONE OF THOSE YOU USE.

factory ground points arent usually that good for grounding an amp. just use a regular rca for your amp. the only way you would need a splitter is if you only had a single subwoofer rca on the back of your radio.

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Use BOTH rca's LEFT & RIGHT because some songs have music on the left and right and they will change a side for each beat but your mono amp will play both beats on both subwoofers.... you're not talking about aplitters.... do not use a factory ground, get a wire brush, clean the paint until its shiny and get some non corrosion stuff from discount auto parts. And do aall your frounds brand new. Even the BIG 3

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I can't hear you!