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2011 silverado problems

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131157
Printed Date: April 19, 2024 at 11:52 PM


Topic: 2011 silverado problems

Posted By: billyboy6567
Subject: 2011 silverado problems
Date Posted: April 10, 2012 at 4:35 PM

 have a chey silverado 2011 LTZ with bose , navigation, rear camera.  I had an JL Audio dealer install JL Audio clean sweap to a HD/900w 500x1 100x4, then out to a stealth box and some JL Audio speakers..  This is the third truck I have had it in and never a problem.  But with this truck at random times I get accessory falure come on  in the dash board.(check airbags, check tire pressure system, ect. and i have had the radio cut off and the whole dash board go down for a few secounds.  I have never and any mechanical problem during these random warnings.  The chevy dealer said i need to take the amp hot wire off of where it was on the battery because there was a fuse there and attach it to the termal post.  I did that and I still am having problems.  Is it possible the amp remote wire is wired some where wrong or it's just the truck?

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Billy Matthews



Replies:

Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: April 11, 2012 at 8:58 AM

Yes, that is entirely possible. There is only one switched 12v wire in that truck that is safe to use. It is located in the drivers kickpanel/footwell area in the distribution center. Large black cover with a battery pictured on the cover. Remove the center plastic nut and remove the cover. The amp wire should be plugged into the lower left open socket, and I do not remember which pin. A search on a chevy truck forum will nab you some pictures quickly.

If the amp turn on wire is tagged at the ignition switch or bcm, it can cause all kinds of issues like you describe. That circuit is only rated at 3-5 amps, and does nothing but tell the bcm to turn the truck on.





Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: April 11, 2012 at 9:00 AM
Sorry, my above post is talking about the Amp remote wire, NOT the 12v battery feed. That should be attached to the positive terminal of the battery only!




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: April 11, 2012 at 7:17 PM
i usually run everything from one of the heavy gauge constant 12v wires in the drivers side fuse box, then i use a relay activated by the brown or pink wire at the ignition harness to create a high current switched output. the wires at the ignition harness arent meant to have much current flow through them so if you hook up anything to those wires it will overload that circuit. the only thing it will support is one maybe 2 relays max.

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Posted By: billyboy6567
Date Posted: April 11, 2012 at 7:33 PM

That was it my partner!  Could not find on fourm, but had a low voltage meter to find the swithed pin.  The pin as the lower left socket was the bottom left.  I could tell instant results.  The rear back up camera alway delay cutting on and off, but now it does it instantly.  Thanks Alot!

Billly



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Billy Matthews




Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: April 11, 2012 at 7:47 PM
Glad it worked out. I had an avalanche I tried the relay trick sns described, and it blew the 3 amp fuse under the hood. From then on I only use the power distribution circuit. I believe the concencus on that wire is, that it is rated at 15 amps max. So if you are running more than 1 amp and 1 radio, you may want to relay it from that to one of the plentiful larger battery wires.




Posted By: billyboy6567
Date Posted: April 11, 2012 at 7:53 PM
Should be OK the installer had a 1 amp fuse on that remote wire. Thamks. Billy


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Billy Matthews




Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: April 11, 2012 at 8:00 PM
In case you want to add more accesories in the future, or anyone else that searches for this in the future, you would wire it as such:

Pin 85 to the lower left switch wire coming from the trucks distribution center as described above

Pin 86 to ground

Pin 30 to 12v battery source rated high enough to carry the added load (over 15a max)

Pin 87 to your loads (added accessories) can fuse independantly from this lead or at the battery before the relay. Standard relays are 40a max.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: April 13, 2012 at 7:43 PM
racerjames76 wrote:

Glad it worked out. I had an avalanche I tried the relay trick sns described, and it blew the 3 amp fuse under the hood. From then on I only use the power distribution circuit. I believe the concencus on that wire is, that it is rated at 15 amps max. So if you are running more than 1 amp and 1 radio, you may want to relay it from that to one of the plentiful larger battery wires.


it blew the ignition fuse? or the fuse for the constant that you hooked up to? ive never had that problem but i always tap the thickest 12v constant that i can find at the fuse box.

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Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: April 17, 2012 at 1:03 PM
When I used the relay off of the ignition wire, it blew the ignition wire 3 amp fuse.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: April 17, 2012 at 1:19 PM
hmm, could have been a faulty relay because they should only draw a few hundred milliamps.

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Posted By: billyboy6567
Date Posted: April 17, 2012 at 7:15 PM

Check out this link it shoud sum up everything, it's from GM.  Pages A-14 thru A17.

Thanks

Billy

https://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/2012_BB/LD_2012_CK%20Truck%20Electrical%20112911.pdf



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Billy Matthews




Posted By: racerjames76
Date Posted: April 17, 2012 at 7:46 PM
billyboy6567 wrote:

Check out this link it shoud sum up everything, it's from GM.  Pages A-14 thru A17.


Thanks


Billy


https://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/2012_BB/LD_2012_CK%20Truck%20Electrical%20112911.pdf





Awesome information! Thanks for sharing!





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