voltage drop trigger srs sensor

Hello everyone, hope someone can provide some advice on my issue.  I have a 2005 accord coupe V6 with a Hfonics BRZ 1200X1 powering a pair of JL W6V2 and a Hifonics GLX 100X4 powering 2 sets of infinity Kappa components for the front and rear, Kenwood DNX7100 DD head unit, Optima yellow top with the big 3 updgrade, 0 guage pwr wire, no HO alternator yet as of yet.  I noticed that everytime I demo my system for someone(high volume) the SRS(safety resistance system) light comes on and will then go off maybe the next day or two.  This happens all the time, only when i really give it some volume.  I took it to the HONDA dealer for further investigation and they claim its "interference" with either my aftermarket Viper 5902 or the audio system and they will not move further until i remove all these items. NOT happening unless i absolutely have to.  Could the voltage drop(4 volts) be causing this? Has anyone else experience something similar?

Thanks in advance.

cant tell you for sure if it is the direct cause of the problem but a 4 volt drop is pretty bad especially on a car that is a giant computer.

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My 1994 Chevy Cavalier would do the same thing.

If it is only happening when you are demoing your system then I would say it is safe to assume it is the voltage drop. SRS are very sensitive and will fault out if all parameters are not in spec to prevent accidental deployment of air bags.

I am assuming that your "safety resistance system" is your air bag system. Typically SRS stands for Safety Restraint System. :)

Perhaps I'm wrong and the fine folks at Honda included a safety system to protect your aftermarket amp from overheating!

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Kevin Pierson

I just used a calibrated Fluke and at IDLE, the voltage reads 14.2V and when playing system at 80% I get a drop down to 11.1V at peak outputs.

All gains and fine tuning have been set correctly using a scope.  I really enjoy how everything sounds, just starting to get annoyed with this issue.  If this is truly related to a voltage drop then I might have to consider upgrading to a HO alternator. 

And you are correct, SRS = "Safety Restraint System"

Thanks for the info guys.

i always thought SRS was "secondary restraint system" seatbelts being the first restraint system.

have you done the big 3 wiring upgrade on your car? it could help with your voltage drop issues.

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From his OP... He has done everything but a H.O. Alt... 11.1 is lowwwww... Some will do a Throttle Lock... That will hold RPM's at a selected level during the Demo...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

maybe because he is using a yellow top optima as a main battery. yellow tops are better suited as "extra" batteries so maybe its struggling with the demand of running the car and the audio system at the same time.

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A list of possible causes.  Notice the very first one.

https://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php/My_SRS_light_is_on%2C_what_does_this_mean%3F

Thanks for the advice guys.  I notice soundnsecurity mentioned that i have a yellow top under the hood, but i thought that the optima battery was designed for a starter and/or second battery?  Are you saying i should remove the yellow top and replace with a standard starting battery?  I dont want to use the yellow top as a second bat as i dont have a HOA. Thanks again.

I have used a yellow top in the past as a primary and only battery with no issues. It lasted a long time and I never had battery issues after I installed it. That was the "fix" to the problem I had in my Cavalier.

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Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

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I have used a yellow top in the past as a primary and only battery with no issues. It lasted a long time and I never had battery issues after I installed it. That was the "fix" to the problem I had in my Cavalier.

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it was just a thought that maybe the yellow top isnt as well suited for fast high current draws (like a quick demo) and is more suited to handle a steady pull from dealing with whatever the main battery cant handle.

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The yellow is more capable of high current draws (but it's just as "fast" as any battery...).
The yellow may not last as long as normal batteries.

But the battery is not your problem, the alternator is - else the wiring (ie, BIG-3).

I will say that this is the 3rd yellow top battery that i have used so far.  The previous 2 failed under their warranty period and now im on my 3rd.  As of now, i've tried everything else but the HO alternator which i will wait on for a little bit.  Thanks for all the advice guys.

MikeHusain wrote:

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The previous 2 {Optimas} failed under their warranty period and now im on my 3rd.

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Why does that not surprise me?


At least yours are being replaced under warranty. Locals I know of don't seem to be as lucky.

I'm on my third red top in my car.  They seem to last a year a piece.  Once they quit warrantying the battery I am switching brands!

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Kevin Pierson

i had a red top in my ranger for about 4 years until it dies and i replaced it with a stinger yellow series and that's been going strong for about 3 years now.

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I get 8 years from my "normal" wet cells.
So does my Mum.
And they are under 1/3rd the price of yellows.

I'd hate to pay the typical 20x for yellows for the same coverage.