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2006 altima bose teardown.

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131659
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 1:53 PM


Topic: 2006 altima bose teardown.

Posted By: mako1215
Subject: 2006 altima bose teardown.
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 11:31 AM

I want to completely eliminate the Bose when I do my audio install.

The only part I am completely confused on is when I remove the Bose amp how my speakers will get power. I am speaking about before I use a aftermarket amp.

I know that with the use of my own amp it will power them. I guess I'm just trying to understand how to run my rear speakers off of HU power for rear fill. I hope that makes sense. Thanks.

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Just learning.



Replies:

Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 1:44 PM
you need to bypass the factory amp to play the speakers directly from the radio. you can either run new wire from the radio to each speaker, or to the output side of the factory amp which should be in the trunk.

you might be able to jump the wires from the input of the amp to the output side but you would have to know which wires to jump and which wires to leave alone. my vote is for running all new wire to each speaker but that is a little more of a challenge. next best option would be to run new wires from the radio and find each speaker wire at the factory amp.

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 2:10 PM
I want to take out the amp so from the HU to the speaker is how I will do it.

How would I do something like that? I have idea how to do something like that.

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 3:41 PM
well the back speakers will be easy because you can get to them from the trunk. the front speaker wires you will have to find in each kick panel or just run the wire straight through each door boot into the door. personally i would run them into the door but it can be very tricky to run the wire through the door boot. but this will keep you from having to tap into any factory wires.

the easiest way is just to find the speaker wire in the kick panel, cut it, and connect the side of the wire coming from each door to the speaker wire you ran from your amp. factory speaker wires in a nissan are usually twisted together so it makes them easy to spot BUT they arent the only wires that get twisted together. CAN bus data wires are twisted together and maybe the airbag wires too. you need to test suspected speaker wires with a digital multi meter to be sure if it is a speaker wire before you go cutting anything unless you want to catch an airbag in the face.



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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 3:53 PM
So the easiest way would be to install everything normally, but when I go to wire up my back speakers go the Bose amp location, and cut the speaker wire going INTO the amp, and then re-route those to the back speakers?

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 4:26 PM
now im a little confused. i have a few questions for you:

are you still using the factory radio or are you using an aftermarket radio?

are you changing the speakers or are you still using the factory speakers?

why do you just want to run the rear speakers off of the HU? what will you have powering the front speakers?





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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 4:33 PM
soundnsecurity wrote:

now im a little confused. i have a few questions for you:
1.)are you still using the factory radio or are you using an aftermarket radio?
2.)are you changing the speakers or are you still using the factory speakers?
3.)why do you just want to run the rear speakers off of the HU? what will you have powering the front speakers?



1.) I will installing an aftermarket. Everything Bose is getting gone. Nothing will be left the same.
2.) Changing the speakers. Components up front.
3.) For rear fill. I will have people in the back seat. My fronts are going off a Kenwood X4R. I would like to go active.



Another separate question. The rear deck uses 6x9s. Should I add in 6x9s for mids or just completely take them out.

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 4:43 PM
ok that makes more sense to me now. just a few more questions though. do you have speakers in the back doors AND the rear deck? are you installing everything at the same time or installing this in stages?

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 4:46 PM
Right now just the Bose is in.

The Bose setup is 8 speakers. Tweet,front,rear,rear deck.

I will be installing pretty much everything at the same time. I might just install the front speakers first, and do the sub install/rear install at another time, BUT as of right now my idea is to get everything, and do it all at the same time.

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 5:03 PM
ok, the easiest way will be to find all of the factory speaker wires AT the factory amp, test them and label them to find out which set goes to which speaker. you will find every speaker wire at the factory amp and they should all be on the same plug coming out of the factory amp.

once you have labeled the speaker wires you can install your aftermarket amp and run your speaker wire from the new amp to the speaker wires you found and labeled at the factory amp. make sure to unplug the plug from the factory amp too.

if you want to run your back door speakers off the HU then you will need to run speaker wires from the rear channels of the HU to the rear speaker wires at the factory amp.



you say you want to go all active, what will you be using as a crossover to filter the frequencies from the mids and tweeters? if you plan on using the crossover in the amp then you need to make sure that it can be set to at least 2000Hz or above so that it will protect your tweeters. if it doesnt go up that high then you will probably blow your tweeters.

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 5:22 PM
I thought when using a after market amp it was always a good idea to run a new set of wire to the location you were going to use?

I'll have to see how my wiring is setup coming off the Bose, because I think I'm confusing myself a little bit.

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Just learning.




Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 6:04 PM
posted_image

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Just learning.




Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 6:09 PM
The first picture is the left side. I didn't know I

posted_image
posted_image

Here's the Bose that goes into the wiring

posted_image

Here's the right side.

So where I show the wiring coming out is that the output wires?

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Just learning.




Posted By: Ween
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 10:25 PM
https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Altima/2006/av.pdf
pages 19-22 for bose amp wiring
m




Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 10:36 PM
DUH I'm retarded.

One of the plugs is bringing the signal in, and the other pushes it out to the speakers. Good lord I'm.

My next question is once I take the Bose amp is a harness available to connect the input plug to the output plug so I can use the HU for the real speakers.

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 10:42 PM
cool. pictures are great. the blue plug on that factory amp will be the output side of the amp. this is where you will find all of your speaker wires.

you can run all new wire to each speaker if you really want to, thats the way i would do it anyway. all i was saying is that it would be easier to run your wires from the new amp to the wires at the factory amp. this way you wouldnt have to deal with running wire into each door and running wire all over the car. this way all of your wiring is centrally located in the trunk.

the only thing you would have to do is unplug the blue plug and test each twisted set of wire to determine where it went. this saves you time and effort. there is nothing wrong with using the factory wires to install an amp but i just like to run my own.

you would do the same thing to run the rear speakers off of the HU except you will run the wires from the rear channels of the HU instead of from the aftermarket amp.

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 20, 2012 at 10:56 PM
So once I have the aftermarket headunit installed I can just tap the rear left - +, and the rear right - +, and then bring the wire the location?

I was trying to figure out a way to do that without tapping a wire off the head unit. I wonder if there is a harness that will still connect the 2, and allow me to do it that way.

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 8:22 AM
no there is no harness that i know of that will jump the two plugs. the plug going into the amp from the radio for signal does not have all of the wires you would need to make a direct jumper harness. it gets its signal exactly like a set of RCA's would carry a signal, it has multiple positives and one or two shared negatives.

to run the rear speakers from the radio you either need to run wire to the trunk and tap the rear speaker wires at the factory amp OR you can run the speaker wires straight from the radio to each speaker. its your choice but i would opt to have everything done in the trunk.

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 9:47 AM
See that's where I am confused. How can I tap the wires at the factory amp if I take it out?

Since the device that takes input, and gives the output is gone what is their to tap into exactly?

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 10:17 AM
if you take the amp out, the wires will still be there and they already run to each speaker. you are simply unhooking the factory speaker wires from the factory amp and connecting your new amp to the factory speaker wires and you are done. after that you can do what you want to the factory amp, leave it there, take it out, burn it, it doesnt matter.

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 10:22 AM
I'm running new wire from my amp to my front components. So the amping part is all taken care of.

The only I do not know how to do is to wire up the rear speakers using the new headunit so they will run off the headunit power.



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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 12:59 PM
ok, just run new speaker wire from the rear output of the head unit( the green and purple sets) straight to the rear speakers.

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 2:36 PM
soundnsecurity wrote:

ok, just run new speaker wire from the rear output of the head unit( the green and purple sets) straight to the rear speakers.


thank you!

I honestly think I was over thinking it, but I needed advice from someone who has more experience then me.

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Just learning.




Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 2:51 PM
Any tips on how to do a good writing job like that?

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 3:37 PM
good writing job? or did you mean wiring job?

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 21, 2012 at 4:09 PM
Sorry I'm typing from my phone. Wiring job.

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 22, 2012 at 10:20 AM
you will probably waste a lot more wire doing things my way because i like to run all my wires in the same bundle and encircle the whole car and as i get to a spot where i need to send a wire i just branch it off from my main bundle and continue running the rest of what i need. i picked up this method from installing high end security systems in big industrial and retail buildings.

i keep it in a single harness because is stops you from having a massive amount of wires running everywhere and if you have a problem than you know exactly where to go.

run your power wire and speaker wires on the drivers side of the car and run your RCA's on the passenger side, keep the RCA's away from other wires as much as possible to avoid picking up noise.

earlier you mentioned something about you wanted to run your front speakers "all active". do you know this means that you will run your component mids on one set of channels and your component tweeters will be running on the other set of channels from your aftermarket amp?

you also never answered me about what you will be using as a crossover to filter the sound in your front components? this is very important because if you dont do this the right way you will blow your speakers.



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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 22, 2012 at 1:40 PM
I wire about the same way you do. Less clutter. Cleaner look.

Thought about running my RCAs down the middle so I can have everything else around it.

I'm going to be using my amp to set the crossovers. I have a X4R.

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 22, 2012 at 3:07 PM
running RCA's up the middle is usually more trouble than its worth but theres nothing wrong with that if thats what you want to do.

if you use the amp's crossovers then you have to make sure it will go high enough to filter anything below the recommended frequency response of your tweeters. if your amp wont do that then you need to buy an active crossover to filter the signal.

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 22, 2012 at 4:05 PM
What trouble does running them down the middle cause

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 22, 2012 at 5:00 PM
mako1215 wrote:

What trouble does running them down the middle cause


nothing, i just meant that its more work than its worth IMO

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Posted By: mako1215
Date Posted: June 23, 2012 at 5:31 PM
I figured that that best way to avoid interference from the wires?

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Just learning.




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 23, 2012 at 10:16 PM
there is no best way for every car, the best way is to use good judgement to keep them away from large power wires and electric motors and control panels. but they dont have to be that far away from those things, just a few inches will do so usually you can do this by running them down the side.

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