bed cut for 15’s 2011 sierra.

Tried several boxes in and under the seat in my short crew sierra. Theres just not enough room to get anything that will flat pound the ground and keep the back seat. So going back to my old school root's from the mid late 90's she will be getting a bed cut with a large ported box

I'm thinking a JL 1000 and 2 15w0's. I'm looking for loud hard hitting cant sit in the truck bass again. My reasoning behind the wo's is they are fairly reasonable and if I cook one it's not going to break my heart or wallet.

Thoughts ideas recommendation's on above train of thought.

Isn't the bed separate from the cabin?  If so, you won't want to try connecting them with your enclosure as the truck will break it since it is designed to flex.  Plus unless you plan to compete with this thing (and you never want to be able to sell it) I wouldn't do that to a brand new truck... but hey, it's yours, go for whatever you want!

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When yo do the bed a accordion boot is installed between the cab and bed. Not worried about selling it, if and when the time comes I'll cut the bed and cab panels out of a salvage yard truck weld them in bondo it up shoot some color on and send it down the highway.

I know many guys that have done that truck with a nice ported enclosure and not had to cut a pass thru. With the equipment you are looking at using I would say get a nice tuned box with better woofers and that should do it.

Want to keep the back seat and all of the forward floor space.   All the various boxes I've been through have all been underseat boxes in I think every combination you can build using 10's and 12's. They sound great for what they are just not quite what I'm after.

Used my jl 1000 on JL 10w3's and a set of older eclipse aluminum's. Then tried a 12w6 on the 1000. I'm pretty dead set on the bed just looking for thoughts on my amp sub combo selection to see if it's a good direction or try something else.

Cool.  I've never done a truck bed blow-through.  The JL woofers are generally good, as are their amps.  The best high SPL drivers I've used lately were RE XXX series... if you want no holds barred I can recommend them.

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just built a blow through box for my ranger a few months ago for two 18's. the cutting the hole part was the easiest part you just have to be careful when marking the outline because the floor of the truck and the bed are usually at different heights so on one side you will have to make some sort of raised floor. after you cut the hole you will have to reinforce the back wall because it will lose a lot of strength. making a wooden trim ring and glue it and screw it around the hole will make it strong enough and then i would go over that with a layer of dynamat.

cut your hole with rounded corners so that the accordion gasket can make the turn easily and seal every inch of it with good silicone just to make sure it doesnt leak onto your box and swell it up.

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My back cab wall will be a PITA it has 2 layers of dynamat extreme on it. Going to be a nasty mess once all that goo gets nice and hot with a airsaw blade.

I'll look into the RE series I'm open to suggestions. This day and time the stuff that was top notch 12-15 years ago is now mediocre made in china junk. They are still banking on a name and reputation of the past.

i would actually recommend a reciprocating saw rather than an air saw. the bigger blade will make short work of the dynamat. use the air saw in the corners and to do the final trim down of rough edges.

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I looked at the re xxx series today but I'm trying to stay in the 4-600 dollar range for both subs and re-use my existing JL 1000/1

Anyone else have some recommendations of really good subs that will hit hard and close to the above price range.

you only need one XXX.

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hmmmmm!!!

I would use kicker cvr's over the w0 for your application. The W0 just isnt a sturdy enough woofer to put up with what you sound like your gonna put it through. They arent bad subs by any means but they arent gonna give you the output your looking for IMO. I sell both at my shop but the CVR has a higher power handling and are generally a louder, more durable sub in my experience. And you should be able to get  a pair in your price range pretty easily.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Let me through this at you, A friend of mine had a '94 Chevy SS truck and put two 15" Volcano subs in the bed, but what he did that differs from what you're thinking of doing, is he built a 6th order bandpass box for the subs and ran 4" ports (flex tube) from the bed to the cab. He then put 5 1/4" speaker grills over the ports on the inside of the cab for a clean look. Bed had a cover on it and it had rhino lining.
Only the amps remained in the cab on the back wall.

smgreen20 wrote:

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Let me through this at you, A friend of mine had a '94 Chevy SS truck and put two 15" Volcano subs in the bed, but what he did that differs from what you're thinking of doing, is he built a 6th order bandpass box for the subs and ran 4" ports (flex tube) from the bed to the cab. He then put 5 1/4" speaker grills over the ports on the inside of the cab for a clean look. Bed had a cover on it and it had rhino lining.
Only the amps remained in the cab on the back wall.

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that couldnt have sounded good at all. if you want a system that only plays loud and has a very narrow frequency response and doesnt sound good even with the notes it does hit, then by all means use the bandpass box.

also, flextube for a port? that just doesnt sound like a good idea. never done it before but i just dont see how that could sound right.

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Went ahead and ordered a set of kicker 15" CVX with dual 4 ohm voice coils. I had a set once upon a time of the inverted cone kicker comps and was very impressed. Figured it was time to give kicker another test drive and see if they will pound like my memory says they used to.

Anyone have some real world feedback on the newer kicker cvx subs or their subs in general from the last few years.

of their entire line up, the CVX is probably the best sub they make. its basically a round L7 which means its not quite as loud as an L7 but it doesnt have the typical problems of a square design. they are loud and they can take some abuse but dont treat them like they are competition quality either.

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That being said they should last me quite well. I want them to hit hard when I'm ready to rattle my teeth out. But for 3/4 of the time they will be at a sane level doing daily driver duty.