dodge magnum sql system build

Hey everyone,

I became the proud second owner of a silver 07 Dodge Magnum SXT last weekend!!!

That means  the Mazdaspeed Protege from my previous system build is for sale with the complete stereo in it!!!

Anywho, the Magnum has the perfect front door panels for insalling my...drum roll...Exodus Anarchy's!!! The speaker grill is round even though the doors have 6X9's in them and the grill diameter is about 1/2" larger than the Anarchy's mounting flange diameter (so 1/4" gap all the way around).

I have a PPI P900.4 amp that I bought a while ago and a PPI A500/2 that I bought even more of a while ago. I am thinking of using the P900.4 briged to the Anarchy's and the A500/2 for whatever tweeters I choose to go with the Anarchy's.

Which brings me to my first decition to make...What tweeter should I get to pair with the Anarchy's? 

A guy on the other forum who is running the Anarchy's has some Image Dynamics Comp v2 HLCDs with mini horns.

I have to admit tweeters are my weak point in driver selection. I get that power handleng and crossover point are going to be a big factor but the Anarchy's go cleanly to 4kHz and most two way's I see have a x-over between 1-3kHz and therefore I have more room to play with but since I can choose in that larger freq range...What is a good crossover point to use in a car with the Anarchy's?

Below are the Thiele Small Parameters for the Anarchy's:

Re: 6.4 Ohm

Le: 0.84mH

Fs: 45.8Hz

Qms: 6.37

Qes: 0.48

Qts: 0.44

Mmd: 29.4

Mms: 30.25

Cms: 0.4mm/N

Vas: 9.61L

Sd: 131 cm^2

BL 10.79 N/A

SPL: 84.7 dB/1W/1m

Pmax: 125W

Xmax: 12 mm 30% Down Point on simulated BL curve (from model)

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

SPL=volume SQL=database

There is no such thing as SQL.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

 Your right...I meant just Sound Quality....these are what I must have been thinking of though as I plan on attending/joining the latter.

What does an SQL database consist of?

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

I believe I have found the tweeter I will be using.

Vifa NE19VTA-04

Frequency response: 775-25,000 Hz

Fs: 775 Hz

SPL: 89.4 dB

Power handling: 80 watts RMS

Impedance: 4 ohms

It has the flattest frequency response compared to the titanium and silk versions of it and compared to some of the other tweeters I am looking at. Also it should match up perfectly with the PPI A500/2 amp 80W @ 4 ohms.

Other equipment I am looking at is:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS because of its 3-way crossover and auto EQ and TA capability

TC Sounds Epic 10" or 12" subwoofers because of there low FS of 24Hz. My sub(s) will be low-passed at 50Hz or 63Hz depending on how the Anarchy's perform in the door enclosures I plan on fabricating.

PPI BK1800.1D amp for the sub(s)

Kinetik HC2000 Battery to replace the stock battery.

Power Ba$tards Fitzall 220AMP alternator

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

ive always wanted to try out the DEH-80PRS, if i remember it has an 18 band stereo eq with auto tune. you are on your way to a nice system but why would you use a 2 channel and a 4 channel amp? its easier to just run everything from the 4 channel, it seems like bridging the 900.4 on the 2 anarchys would overpower them slightly

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Soundnsecurity,

Click >DEH-80PRS for pioneers website for the 80PRS and look at the owners manual under "Manuals & Brochures" on the left side of the page. I believe the stereo EQ you are refering to is in the DEX-P99RS which is of course what i want...but not budget friendly. the 80PRS has a 16 band EQ and also Auto TA EQ with a mic just like my Premier DEH-980BT but it also has band pass crossover capability which i need to run everything active.

Below are the specs for the Anarchy's. Notice how their power handeling was not fully tested and therefore the 125W is probably very conservative and also note the low SPL/Sensitivity of 84.7db which increases my belief about them being able to take more power reliably.

So as to eliminate other doubts of their power handeling I had one in a box tuned to 40~50Hz in my trunk connected briged to my XA4200 amp which was giving it aproxamately 250w(I was being conservative with my 200w estimate below, XA4200 = 4x125w@4ohm) @8ohms of SUPER CLEAN power and it sounded like an 8" subwoofer and never bottomed out or had any distortion even at high levels.

z03mz03m wrote:

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Stage 2 Amp Rack:


I decided to throw the anarchy in the back for some temporary thump. At first I had it on the floor in the back seat hooked up to one channel of the XA4200 and it sounded good. Then I threw it in the trunk for safer keeping and... I forgot it was 8ohms so instead of maybe 50-60watts on one channel its getting about 200watts bridged...and I am putting those in my doors... WOOOOT! That thing has surprised everyone that has heard it!

 

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

do you plan to actually build a box inside your doors? it shouldnt be too hard with fiberglass but dont expect the same airspace as your temporary box. if you do that then remember to dampen the actual door panel and the door or else expect tons of rattles from that dodge door panel. and rattles from the rest of the car for that matter. man id hate to have to dynamat the floor of a magnum, but in your case seeing as how you want maximum response from those mids i'd be dampening everything in sight.

as far as powering them, i still think 200W is a little too much for a door speaker even though i know you want to cross them low. i would opt for the simplest system i could build and it would be a lot easier to set up and less potential for noise. plus i think you would have to use splitters at the amp to fill all of the inputs.



ps. i thought i was the only one who liked to use home/industrial multi-conductor wire inside of cars like you have running from that amp into the box.

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finding a good crossover point can be a bit tricky. i had to set mine by ear because the components i bought were meant to be used with a passive crossover and i didnt really have the individual specs for the tweeter and mid. i have an active crossover with fully adjustable settings so i just had to listen carefully as i adjusted the point to find the best balance of mid and tweeter. i ended up with a crossover point around 2kHz with an 18db slope and because i didnt have any specs it made me kind of nervous for a few weeks because i didnt know if the tweeters would handle being crossed so low.

i dont know how your premier works as a crossover, whether its fully adjustable or it just has set points that you can choose from, but all you really have to be careful of is to make sure the tweeter is protected at its lower limit and other than that its all about what sounds best to your ears.



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SQL=Structured Query Language

I deffinitely will be fabricating enclosures for the anarchy's and the tweeters will be glassed into the doors as well. its going to be a challange to maximise my airspace in the doors and try to make them equal. I will be looking to make them ported enclosures first but may end up with sealed.

as far as installing damping...im not afraid to strip the whole interior of my car. So far ive explored in the trunk behind the side trim pannels where i plan on glassing the sub enclosures and the center dash where the stereo came out with my fingers and a phillips. the door pannels are pretty well mounted and for an 07 there are very few rattles right now. Besides, ill be taking the carpet out to run all the wires to MECA comp specs.

the P900.4 has a switch for 4ch or stereo operation and actually has band pass x-over in it too, but ill be useing the far more accurate one on the 80PRS.

the 80PRS crossover is not infinately variable it has plenty of points to choose from though and they are listed in the manual i made a link to in my last post.

the wire in the pic is 14Ga tributaries wire that i collected as scrap from one of my previous employers....its as nice as speaker wire gets.

I plan on mounting the P900.4 and A500/2 under the front seats to keep the RCA's as short as possible.

I have to more thouroghly read the MECA SQL regulations to decide/determine what category ill be entering as and to keep documentation that i built to their requirements...wires secured every 6" etc...

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

wires secured every 6 inches, i use these zip ties that have a mounting ring on the end, that should make your job very easy.

please dont try to port your door speakers... the only possible reason for this would be if you didnt plan on running a sub woofer at all. in my opinion it would be more work than its worth and more things could go wrong than could go right.

i love system builds like yours. building a system when you know it will be judged just makes it that much more important to pay attention to details. do you plan to run all new speaker wire too?

i guess it should be easy to run the amps under the seat due to the split carpet, you just have to make sure you find a good ground close by.

does your magnum by chance have the center speaker location on the dash?

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I was a home theater installation tech for 2 years(man I miss that job...except for the crawl spaces). I worked in million dollar beach homes and tried not to drewl on the carpet....anyway, I believe I know what zip ties you are talking about.

 ????

I used these all the time when i was in the HT biz, but I think ill be using these low pro cable ties (that I just found on PE while I was responding to this post) and sticky mounts

I believe the door enclosures will end up sealed for the reasons you stated...but it would be awesome......but not so "SQ" which IS what i'm going for.

I sure ain't gunna use the 22Ga speaker wire thats going to the stock speakers for anything....so yes I'll be running all new speaker wire, hopefully I have enough of the tributarries 14-2 left...I should considering the amps will be under the front seats making it a short run.

I should be able to use the seat bolts or the seat belt bolts for a good gound if I can just add a washer or 3 to keep the seat mounted square...I'll also see if I can bolt the ground to the frame anywhere under the seats...i'll have to see when I get the carpet out.

No center speaker in my car....its not even a 6 speaker dodge system its the 4 and the back passenger side is blown. Thankfully the car is so huge I cant hear it cracking from the drivers seat. Honestly I am impressed with the stock speakers bass output...they go pretty low for POS 6x9's but they have almost no highs.

Thanks for helping me brainstorm, it really helps to have someone that can question what I'm doing to make sure I'm confident with my decisions.

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

you did HT and i used to install security systems in homes and commercial buildings so i know exactly how bad crawl spaces can be, especially being in someones attic laying face down in insulation while its 130 degrees in the summer, just so you can fish a wire up a wall. but just like HT it teaches you some neat tricks that can be applied to cars too.

ive never been a huge fan of sticky mounts but i see nothing wrong with it i guess.

dont use a seat belt bolt for a ground, its not ideal and probably wont get you any points with the judges. if you have the space you should build a mini amp rack for each amp under the seat to make it look more professional.

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After modeling both the Epic 10" and 12" I decided to look for another sub that could give me more in the below 30Hz range.

I found the Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" Refrence sub. It seems to work well in larger enclosures so I had to change my plan of building the subs into the sides of the trunk and go exploring in the spare tire area. The bottom edge of the electrical tape is where the top o the stock flooring is. I am thinking of raising that to be level with the edge of the bins in the sides to give me more room. Ill fabricate the right side of the trunk to hold the stock battery and fuse box along with the HC2000 battery which will supply all aftermarket .that i install including the stereo and any lighting I do. that will give me enough room to put 1 15 in there sealed or......2 15's in there isobaric!  i modeled the 15's in a sealed iso confiuration and the volume was 2.75ft3 so if, because its a sealed box and i believe I read +or- 25% volume has little impact, I increase the volume to 3-3.5ft3 then if what i have read about iso boxes is correct it should have the output of one 15 in a 6-7ft3 box! With this setup (550w rms to each 15 in the iso box) I believe i'll have the clean and loud output I want at 20Hz and from what ive read below 20Hz too. I'm imagineing myself rolling up to a light blasting organ music and counting how many drivers look like their experiencing an earthquake! lol Id like to buld a storage compartment in the shallower front part of the trunk for tools and possible the spare tire. That leave the drivers side of the trunk for the amp and whatever else I decide to put there like more storage. 

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

sounds pretty complicated but i guess its as solid a plan as any. you should also benefit from some nice cabin gain being that this is a wagon but you will also have a lot of dynamat work to do, especially on that roof if you plan on having response at 20Hz and below because any panel flex at all will kill that response easily. ive never really done anything isobaric mainly because of the look of having the exposed back and wires and potential for damage if something gets into the basket structure. do you plan on glassing the box or are you using all wood for your box/floor? i would also mold the amps into the left panel

i think if done right your idea of having the batteries and fb relocated into the side could turn into a nice show piece. have you pulled the entire right panel to make sure you have enough space for both batteries and clearing the strut tower? i think a window would also be nice to show off the kinetic but hide the stock battery too and keep in mind that the stock battery is not sealed so it needs to stay straight up and down.

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Been busy with life and looking at other subs too.

I made a card board silhouette of the 15 HF and played around with its placement in the spare tire area only to decide that two of them was not going to happen in the area that I wanted to contain them in.

I have gone the only way to go....bigger! I'm looking at putting a single Dayton 18" HO mounted cone facing up or possibly slightly angled in the spare tire area in a sealed ~4-5ft3 box. The bbottom and four sides of the box will be 3/4" Mdf with some 2x4's for bracing. I will build an over-sized ring that will be securely mounted/braced to the rest of the box and fiberglass the rest with 8-10oz of FG.

I think I'll build a cover for it so I can still use the trunk. It will fold up and toward the front of the car, just like the trunk opens. I think this cover will also be the amp rack for the sub amp.
So the amp will also be protected when the cover is down. I'll make it so this cover locks into the up and down position so, when up it will contain any cargo I have further back in the trunk. The floor of the trunk beyond the sub box will become a small cargo area that I'll make lockable.

I agree that the batteries and potentially fuse blocks would look good through some plexi windows/access panels? Yes I have taken all of the panels out of the trunk to check for fitment of the batteries and see about running wires to the trunk lid for speakers...like another pair of my PPI355cs's FG'ed and on a switch and 4th amp so I can turn them off in I go to SQL meets.

Well looks like I have my work cut out for me this year...gotta get to bed to finish the work week...uhg...why do i participate in this ridiculous economy based on pieces of paper that say the government owes me x dollars worth of gold even though we aren't even basing it on gold or any resource we actually have anymore....good night lol

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

I took off my driver side door panel this weekend to see how I was going to install the Anarchy's in the door. I decided to install them free air and do a really good job of sealing the doors up because they are already well sealed and this would save me loads of work building fiberglass enclosures. So as you can see in the first picture the speakers where made specifically for a dodge magnum door panel lol. I will begin by cutting out the stock circular grill and make some speaker rings to mount in the holes. After the rings are mounted in the doors and aimed I will remove the map pocket part of the door panel for fiber-glassing. I will also reinforce the remaining lower door panel for strength and mounting the map pocket part back to the door panel.  The whole panel is assembled with melted plastic rivets so I can simply drill them out to remove the map pocket. I will be making FG tweeter pods for the NE19VTA-04's in the location marked next to the door handle. Finishing wise I am thinking the map pockets on all 4 doors and the tweeter pods will be black truck bed liner and I will custom make metal mesh grills for all 5 speakers and paint them silver like the rest of the interior trim or paint all them and the rest of the trim pieces in the car stainless steel. Almost forgot...the stock speakers are mounted to an angled plastic baffle with a water drip guard that I will FG to create a tunnel between the back of the anarchys and the metal door to seal them and mount them rigidly to the door. Also I will be making some sort of rigid panels to seal the typical holes in the metal door skin.

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

Long time no post...

Yesterday I attempted to make a mold of the space between the door pannel and the door. I bought some Great Stuff large gap filling foam and filled half of a trash bag with it to sandwitch between the door and the door panel. I waited 5 hours for the foam to bake in the car with the sun warming it but upon removing the panel I noticed that I was handeling a bag of uncured foam . Thanks to the ambigous directions on the can I didn't "ensure adaquate ventalation" to let the foam off gas and harden because it was in the trash bag. With that plan out the window I moved on to cleaning my shed to sooth my dissapointment. Today I will break out my respirator and have a go at laying some chop mat on the doors to make a mounting flange for the Anarchy baffel and to fill the largest hole in the door panel. If it goes well then I'll be doing the driver side tomorrow before the teprature drops 20 degrees for the forseable future.

Pics of the fail:

Door panel off, stock weather barrior that is a brittle plastic that is not re-usable.

Weather barrior removed, the glue that held it on was excessivly strong compared to the barrior.

The stock sound deadener is identical to the roofing flashing that i get from the hardware store which means I will continue to use it.

Taped up the large holes making sure to form the tape into the recesses that I wanted to have captured in the foam. Also taped over pointy fasteners to prevent puncturing the bag and making a horrible mess.

Bag taped into position ready for me to poor $7 of not so Great Stuff into it and re-install the door panel.

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

Hello everyone, I've sold the Mazda, quit my engineering job and went back to my job as a home electronics installation tech for a really good conpany.

So money has been tight ... I have been working on the stereo as much as I can without spending much for the past week. I have enough spare parts around to get it operating except for a relay(or high level to RCA converter) and the vifa titanium dome with silk surround tweeters. I'll order those tomorrow and continue the work.

Lots of pics to come.

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

I sold the Magnum and stereo to a good friend and he has the Anarchy's rocking along with a pioneer 12 in sub. no tweeters as far as I know. I believe he installed a second battery too.

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Dodge Magnum in progress:
Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery