pyle plpw15d 15 2000 watt

Looking for the spec sheet on this subwoofer "Pyle - PLPW15D - 15'' 2000 Watt" , qts, vas,fs,..etc



R Gauvin
2001 Hyundai accent
Canada

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Gary Sather

Thanks but not exactly what I meant, I need the qts, vas, fs, etc.

Bargain basement brands like Pyle seldom publish meaningful specs, largely because the woofers are very poorly designed and very cheaply made. I cannot recommend using Pyle for anything other than a doorstop.

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Well thanks for the comment but seriously, a simple question should get a simple answer, again.......thank you!!

87pontiac wrote:

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Well thanks for the comment but seriously, a simple question should get a simple answer, again.......thank you!!

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Like I said, flea market brands like Pyle DO NOT PUBLISH T/S specs, mainly because they do not test the woofers and the actual specs vary greatly from one to the next. The best you can do with something like this is put in into the size enclosure they recommend and beat it until it dies. Good luck!

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That's the problem, they don't say what size of enclosure, all I have is a 2.0 ft3 sealed chamber ( one for each sub). That seems way small forever bargain basement subs.

Use it. It really won't matter.

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Are they that bad.......maybe I should just leave the 12's in.

What are the 12's?

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Oohhh your gonna love this one..... Scosche 200w rms. Sw1204,but they work good, had them now for three years and no problems.

Not familiar with those, but if "they work good" then use them. :)

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2ft^3 for a "small" 15 is probably very close to what those subs want. any time i have a sub without knowing the exact specs i usually just make a judgement call based on how the sub's mechanical limits. usually cheap subs wont have much mechanical excursion meaning that they are not meant to move very much without damage, and they usually have under sized magnets which means that it wont have very strong control over the cone and coil. in general, a larger box allows the sub to move more easily which is why sometimes if you put a sub in a box that is too big it can actually cause the sub to destroy itself from over excursion.

not to mention that cheap subs are usually "rated" to handle way more power than they should ever receive because of specs like "MAX" power handling which is usually two to three times more than what the sub should get. the sub woofers are rated to be paired with those brands equally over rated amps that also claim to produce much more power than they actually do, so when you hook the sub up to an amp that actually puts out anywhere near the sub's max power rating they will almost certainly suffer a swift demise.

when you combine the factors of having a cheap sub, an over-sized box and too much power it will result in blown subs almost every time.

this isnt based on any hard calculations, this is simply my general guide to keep from blowing subs for no reason, this has nothing to do with how the sub will sound. either way i honestly wouldnt go any bigger than 2ft^3 sealed per sub or smaller you might get lucky and it might sound ok depending on what music you normally listen to.

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It seems to me way back when Pyle was a good company, the subs play well in the enclosure with 300 watts to each one but that will be my limit on them, I kinda knew what I was getting so I didn't expect a shattering result just something that was boomy. We all don't have a few grand to to spend on audio equipment, so an upgrade from factory is a nIce cheap improvement,hahaha. 20 years ago I blew $5000 on an all alpine system, this ain't my first rodeo.

87pontiac wrote:

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way back when Pyle was a good company,

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Which was about 1976. :)

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Hahaha,yeah, damn now I really feel old. Any how I put everything together and it actually sounds good.Now I changed the power from 500 watts to 820 watts and when stopped in traffic my voltage drops to below 12 volts and the amp I use for the speakers (not the subs),cuts out.Looks like bigger alternator is in my future.Funny thing is the subwoofer amps don't quit,gonna disconnect the 500k cap as it really is doing much except being something else the alternator has to look after.

87pontiac wrote:

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Hahaha,yeah, damn now I really feel old. Any how I put everything together and it actually sounds good.Now I changed the power from 500 watts to 820 watts and when stopped in traffic my voltage drops to below 12 volts and the amp I use for the speakers (not the subs),cuts out.Looks like bigger alternator is in my future.Funny thing is the subwoofer amps don't quit,gonna disconnect the 500k cap as it really is doing much except being something else the alternator has to look after.

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Good plan. Upgrade the Big 3 first, or at least at the same time as you upgrade the Alt.

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THIELE-SMALL PARAMRTERS
Resonance Frequency     Fs:     29.02 HZ
DC Resistance     Re:     3.4ohm+3.4ohm
Mechanical Q Factor     Qms:     3.94
Electrical Q Factor     Qes:     0.5199
Total Q Factor     Qts:     0.4593
Equivalent Cas air load     Vas:     195.68 L
Surface Area of Cone     Sd:     0.082 m2
Efficiency Bandwidth Product     EBP     55.8
Voice Coil Over Hang     X-max     8 mm

Finally got info from manufacturer