boss ar3000d class d monoblock amp

This amp is Mrs 1200x1 @ 4 ohms but it's not pushing my boss 1800 watt sub Mrs 925 it moves the sub but not so I hear the bass. It is 1 ohm stable. I hooked it to another cheap 500 watt sub rms 250 an it booms. I also have a cheap amp @ 300 watts an it sounds better on the 1800 watt sub. I want that big boom clear sound from this ar3000d what can I do????????!!!!!!!!!!!

Get a better amp, based on your post.

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Your saying this is a bad amp? It is brand new I just opened it . I'll try a installer first this thing checks out with my multi meter. I may be connecting it wrong or not setting the gains an stuff right.

your 3000 watt amp has 2 35 amp fuses, this equals a maximum of probably 600 watts, and since you are running the sub at 4 ohms you are getting about 150 watts at all times. all of their specs are in "MAX POWER" which is really just a BS spec so that people who know nothing about amps get suckered into buying the amp because they think it is much better than it really is. MAX POWER is mostly made up and probably the maximum power produced for a tiny split second under super unrealistic laboratory conditions. if you ever get 3000 watts out of that amp it will most likely be on fire at the same time.

also i would not be even the slightest bit surprised that your boss amp is defective out of the box. it is a very true thing when it come to audio equipment that you get what you pay for. you probably paid 100 bucks for a "3000" watt amp when a real 3000 watt amp would cost you close to $1000...

if you want to learn how to really read the specs of an amp so that you can figure out for yourself what is and isnt a good amp then just say the word because you are in the right place, but my advice to you would be to take that amp back to where you got it or sell it to another unsuspecting victim.

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Well I paid more then $100 bucks for it. The cost was $475.00 for this amp. I put my sub in a new box an it beats hard but not what this amp suppose to. It sounds like 300 watts or so I really would Like to know how to go to 1 ohm . It says it's 1 ohm stable.can you or anyone show me how to set it up that way. I also installed a 1.5 cap to make sure it gets all the power or needs.

longboy64 wrote:

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I also installed a 1.5 cap to make sure it gets all the power or needs.

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Oh dear, there is a bit of a learning curve here...

I'll start by saying that the only valid power measurement is Watts (RMS - not peak or anything else). And max Watts output applies to a certain output impedance (Ohms) - read the specs for what output for what load impedances. (And if they only quote "peak" power or Watts, ditch that product uness you know better.)

longboy64 wrote:

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Well I paid more then $100 bucks for it. The cost was $475.00 for this amp.

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If you paid that much for it you got ripped off. It's regularly available for less than $120. By the way, that amp is more like a 600 watt amp.

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saying it sounds like 300 watts or so really doesnt say anything. to be perfectly honest the amount of power that you give to any given sub woofer has the least to do with how loud that sub woofer will be. what is more important when you want something to be loud is the design of the box and the quality of the sub woofer. having enough power does make a difference but you usually need to double the power to hear a difference, that by itself says a lot about the importance of power. power is not very important over all, if you go from the 150 you are getting now to probably 500 watts when you switch to 1 ohm you should notice a difference but it probably wont give you what you seem to want. a good box is way more important than having an extreme amount of power, and notice your subs sound much better in a different box because they are a better match for each other. a good box will make all the difference. you can have all the power in the world but if the box is wrong then the subs wont sound how they should.

im sorry to tell you that if you bought that amp for almost $500 you got seriously taken advantage of. you could have actually bought a nice 1000 watt amp that actually produces 1000 watts and would sound 1000 times better than what you have.

also you should know that that capacitor isnt doing anything for your system, your amp even if you drop it to a 1 ohm load should never ever put a strain on your car if your battery and alternator are working like they should. all that cap is doing is making your system more complicated for no reason. capacitors can serve a purpose in very high power high performance systems with multiple amps but they are usually the absolute last thing anyone should add to a system, a better battery, alternator, and better wire are all things that work much better than capacitors for any sound system. if you dont believe me, then do a search on the site for anything to do with capacitors and you can spend days reading post after post from professional installers, engineers, and competitors who will all say the same thing.







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Ok it will be returned on monday.what type or brand of amp you suggest is true to what wattage it says it puts out.

ok so lets assume the same over rated specs for your sub, they should be rated for about 400 watts to be safe maybe a little more. do you plan to keep this sub or maybe add more to your system in the future? buying an amp is something you should plan carefully so that if you change your system you dont have to change your amp.

as it stands i think you should shoot for an amp that will give you that 400 watts at 4 ohms and that should also translate into about 1600 watts at 1 ohm. instead of telling you what brands would be good im going to tell you which brands to completely avoid:

boss
lanzar
pyramid
jensen
dual
kole
spl
ssl
interfire
sound storm

there are more but i cant think of them right now.

a few tips for weeding through the amps and finding the good ones. as far as making sure the amp does the rated power all you need to do is look at the fuses in the amp, add them up and multiply that by 12. the number you get wont be exact but it will be close to what you should get out of that amp. this is how i knew right away that your boss amp did nowhere near the 3000 watts it claimed.

if an amp is only uses MAX POWER to give its ratings just keep moving, dont even consider buying it. this is a dead give away that they are trying to hide something from you. any real amp will be rated by its RMS or average power output.

another not so obvious thing to look for is the size of the power terminals. for example if an amp is claiming 1600 watts rms but it only has 8 gauge power terminals then something isnt right. to produce   that much power an amp would need about 140 amps or current and if you try to pass that much current through a small 8 gauge wire it will eventually heat up and melt. an amp that size should have at least a 4 gauge power and ground terminal.

another sign that doesnt always hold true but its something to consider, if the amp looks too flashy then they are probably trying to compensate for something else. usually anything that is chrome plated and lit up like a christmas tree is also a piece of junk, not always but usually.

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Thanks for all your great knowledge about amps. I did return the amp an I have to wait 7 to 10 business days to get my money back because it was less then 30 day of purchase I do get a refund. I really want a amp around 2000 watts but no less then 1500. I'm in no rush to find it. Maybe a sony, alpine or something like that. So thanks for the help. Can I add you as a buddy? God bless.

good im glad you can return that amp for a refund. if you plan on buying an amp with that much power then you should expect to be buying some new subs too because what you have now probably wont last very long on that much power. i would stay away from a Sony amp, they arent bad amps but they are not as powerful as they say they are and usually arent very clean either. try looking at brands like Phoenix Gold, Crossfire, ARC audio, Memphis, Power Bass, Soundstream, Precision Power(PPI), among others. pretty much every brand has high and lower quality amps to choose from and they should be priced accordingly too, that $475 you spent on that Boss amp should be enough to get you a decent 1000-1500 watt amp, but if you want to step it up to 2000 watts then expect to pay around $700 for a true 2000 watt RMS amp.

also keep in mind that that much power will require you to buy GOOD all-copper wire that is at least a true 4 gauge but i would recommend using 0 gauge if it will fit into the amp directly. beware that not all wire is made equal, just because it is labeled as a certain gauge doesnt mean that it has the same amount of wire inside. the difference in price really matters when it comes to getting good wire. cheap wire is usually not copper, it is copper-plated aluminum, and it probably wont have as much wire inside the jacket. on the other side, really good wire will be sold copper or tin-plated copper. the wire will fill most of the jacket.

my keyboard is flipping out so ill finish this post later

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Well I did find a ARC I think it's a dxi 1000.1 that will give me what I want so i'm glad you did say arc audio because I never heard of them but my friend has a arc but it's only like 600 watts I'm getting 2 of these @ like 460 each one at a time though thanks again.