So, its time for MORE POWER. But I need some ideas.
Currently (for low end) I have 4- Niche Audio 15" subs (no rude comments please as these have been awesome subs)
anyway, these subs are all dual 4ohm voice coils, which all run into 1 JL Audio JLX1000 at a 2 ohm load, I have hit 143.1db with this car, but I want more
My first thought was to replace all the subs with JL 15W0v3 4ohm SVC and get another JLX1000. but that's a bit more $$$ than I want my wife knowing that I spent.
Is there ANY way to reconfigure the subs I have and use a second JLX1000? (without it only being 4ohm/500watts)
Or, is there a decent 2000watt @ 2ohm stable amp out there that would be comparable to the JL amp I already have, I have thought about hifonics and similar but all I read is that they are crap compared to the JL that I have
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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0
if you want more then you should probably look at changing your box. you have respectable numbers right now but maybe a ported box will give you a little more and will be less expensive than getting all new subs or more amps.
you can increase the power and maybe gain a little but, everything else being equal, you usually have to double the power to notice a difference in sound. there is usually more decibels to be gained by trying out different box designs. it may take more than one try to get what you want but its usually worth it in the end.
Changing the box would be my LAST option since that would include re-doing the majority of the interior of the car.
Any decent (fair priced) 2000-2500 watt amps stable at 1ohm out there?
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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0
what is fair priced to you? a decent 2000 watt amp will run you around $500 and up. ive heard good things about the sundown audio saz-2500 and other amps in that series. if you cant change the box design then you will always be limited by it because you can only get so much out of a sealed box.
other things you can do to maybe gain some volume is just to check and reinforce everything. if the box flexes a little then that is lost energy, brace the box internally, if it isnt already, and you could gain a DB ot two. walls especially need to be braced a lot because of the huge surface area of the front and back plates. is your wall multi-layered or is it just made of a single layer of wood? is your box divided in any way or do all four 15's share the same airspace? sealed boxes are usually louder when they are divided because it stops the subs from interfering with each other and it will make them sound clearer too. you can modify the box without changing it completely.
same goes for the car itself, if certain parts of your car flex a lot then that is also lost energy, find ways to brace those parts of your car and make sure it is as sealed up as possible will salvage every DB that you have already have but they just get wasted.
Ok, thanx for the response, each sub has its own airspace, box is braced.
So if I was to go on the venture of doing ported boxes, what is better, round tube ports or slot ports? the round tube would be way easier for me to make, and would it be possible to expand the cuft of the box(s) by cutting out the back of each chamber and adding another box? I can access the back wjile in the car and it will take much less interior conversion than to make all new box(s). then I could add the tube ports at the front of the box(s)
I guess one more question is, on ported boxes, is it better to have induvidual airspace and ports, or shared?
You can see the car in the Rides forum, its the DILLIGAF
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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0
yes you can add to the back of the box as long as the addition is solid and sealed to the existing box. the only difference between using a slot port vs a round port is that round ports tend to sound better because they dont create as much turbulence, but a slot port has the advantage of being able to turn around corners easily. if you design the port properly then there really is no difference from one to the other so use a round port as long as you can fit one.
in a ported box i like to keep no more than two subs to a single port in the same chamber so that you can keep each sub the same distance from the port.