infinity sound system and new kenwood hu

Guys,

Been searching on this topic for the past two days. Need to narrow it down to hopefully someone that has experienced not only the same thing, but in the same vehicle.

I am trying to resolve an extremely frustrating situation. I have a 2008 Dodge Ram with the Infinity Speaker Package. Installed the radio with the suggested CHTO-013BB from Best Buy. Installed all the wired connections per the Axxess instructions and the Kenwood DDX470 installation manual. Once installed the head unit powers on, but I get no sound from any source (Radio, CD, Bluetooth, Aux, etc.), even no touch screen selection beeps from the head unit. After my discovery, I reinstalled the stock unit and all works as it should. My conclusion is that I am not getting a proper AMP-TURN ON signal to the factory amps which is exactly why I bought the CHTO-013BB. When looking at the stock wiring diagram (attached), I appears that the CHTO-013BB sends a signal through the rear speakers outputs? Is that correct? Is the factory remote turn on signal from the CAN-BUS+ (pin 5)? There is nothing hooked to that wire from the CHTO-013BB.

I’ve attached some pictures for reference. Has anyone come across this problem yet?

you should only hook up a pair of speaker wires, i think its the radios front outputs to the rear inputs, white to green and grey to purple. the other speaker wires should be capped off on both ends. the amp turn on should be through the can bus system, the red wires are only to turn the aftermarket radio on. also i dont see why you would have the brown mute wire hooked up

Thank you for the reply. I was merely following the instruction manual which I foolishly relied on to be accurate. I even called Metra this morning (yes, they are open on Sunday)and the guy is telling me I might have a faulty unit?!

As far as the speaker leads, I understand what you are saying about the factory amp getting power through the CAN BUS system. I traced the wiring in my service manual and it does appear that the amp gets powered on through the rear speakers? Is that correct? So what you are saying is hook up the Kenwoods front speaker outputs to the rear inputs on the CHTO-013BB? And then cap of the rears on the Kenwood and the fronts on the module?

I tried both ways with the mute soldered and also disconnected.

Please let me know if I understand you correctly.

Thanks again...

make sure the blue/white on the kenwood has measures 12 volts when the headunit is on and connected to the interface.
mark

This seems to be much deeper than just a remote wire which is connected and getting 12v when turned on. I have gotten one step further. I got sound by having the truck running with the stock radio. Had the volume at 75% and all faders and balancers at (0). Let it play for about a minute. While the truck was running I disconnected the stock radio and plugged in the Kenwood.. VOILA!! SOUND and full functionality. Let it play for about 10 minutes. .. shut truck off and restart... no sound! wth!?!?!

It is a remote wire issue.

Thanks for the reply. Any ideas on how to resolve the remote not turning on the factory amp? Should I try connecting 12v switch to blue/white wire on metra adapter?

Thanks for the reply. Any ideas on how to resolve the remote not turning on the factory amp? Should I try connecting 12v switch to blue/white wire on metra adapter?

The reason it works like that is because the factory radio is telling the amplifier to turn on. It will remain on until the key is turned off.

If you are sure there is 12v on the remote wire, I am thinking you may have a bad harness.

Gotchya. Ok.. I am going to go out and put the multimeter on the stereo side again and get a reading off the blue/white. I will come back and give you exact or range of voltage.

As far as being a bad harness, I guess it's possible. But I went to Best Buy today and they were cool enough to swap out the module for me. I will also ohm out all my connections and let you know. Any other ideas? How about Metra just being crap? Should I return and go with the PAC RP4-CH11?

Confirmed 11.81volts on the remote side of the head unit when powered on. Ohmed out from the head unit, to the module, other side of the module and to the factory harness plug. All connections show infinity. I don't get this. Been doing stereos for myself for over 20 years... not supposed to be this difficult!! Unless anyone else has any ideas.. I guess I will get on the phone with Metra again tomorrow and if they can't resolve it, return it at Best Buy and try my luck with the PAC RP4-CH11.

Are you using the steering wheel controls? If not, the C2R-CHY4 is a less expensive option.

So I talked to their main tech at Metra/Axxess today after waiting on hold for about 45 minutes. In the database there are notes that state that in 2007-2008 Dodge produced two types of amplifiers for the Infinity Sound Systems. The CHTO-01 only works on ONE of them and NOT the other. I asked if there was a way to tell which amp I have, he said there was no way. He said the only thing I could do is use the Bypass Harness (70-6514) or "physically" bypass the amp all together and tap into the speaker leads coming out of the amp. He said the "physical" option could be PIA unless you take apart just about the whole dash.

After I got completely disgusted I called PAC Audio based out of Clearwater. They have the RP4-CH11 or the C2R-CHY4 which they do not have any notes in their database about not being compatible.

Now I am wondering if I should gamble with the PAC product and see if it works (which I always thought to be subpar of Axxess) OR just bite the bullet and see what it sounds like getting powered from the Kenwood Head unit?? I guess if it's not enough for me I could always add on a small 4-CH amp. What a nightmare!!!

Do you have the mute wire hooked up?????? By the pictures it sure looks like it and that needs to be cut out.

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PAC is all i really like to use, those axxess pieces tend to have things wrong with them fresh out of the box, i find that PAC is just more reliable and better with their compatibility. with that said, not that you mention about having two different factory amps during those years, i remember a while back i installed a nav unit into a chrysler pacifica with just the base system but still had an amp and i could not find any plug at all that would work in that car. i ended up running all new wires to each speaker from the new radio and it sounded fine. sometimes they really done make an adapter that works and you might be unlucky enough to have one of those problem factory systems.

buddholly wrote:

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Do you have the mute wire hooked up?????? By the pictures it sure looks like it and that needs to be cut out.

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Tried it with and without it hooked up, along with the remote amp wire (blue/white) on the HU hooked up to the blue/white on the axxess interface and also the Remote Amp AND the Power Antenna spliced together and hooked into the blue/white on the interface side too. Same results.

soundnsecurity wrote:

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PAC is all i really like to use, those axxess pieces tend to have things wrong with them fresh out of the box, i find that PAC is just more reliable and better with their compatibility. with that said, not that you mention about having two different factory amps during those years, i remember a while back i installed a nav unit into a chrysler pacifica with just the base system but still had an amp and i could not find any plug at all that would work in that car. i ended up running all new wires to each speaker from the new radio and it sounded fine. sometimes they really done make an adapter that works and you might be unlucky enough to have one of those problem factory systems.

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Thanks.. that make me feel a little better. I like the fact that the PAC device recognizes that the vehicle doesn't make use of the aftermarkets front speaker leads and sends the signal through the rear speakers leads to turn on the factory amp. Seems like it is a totally different product, not just a name change. Hope it works. Ordered it last night off of fleebay cause no local installers stock a bunch of PAC audio stuff. Will give it a whirl when it comes in. If that doesn't work, looks like I'm gonna have to bypass that thing and install all aftermarket.

The PAC C2R-CHY4 just came in. Installed it. Same results. The amp must be bypassed, end of story.

If the amp comes on with the factory radio, it does not need to be bypassed.

You can use a metra 70-8901 at the factory amp to grab your speaker wires.



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i am an idiot wrote:

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If the amp comes on with the factory radio, it does not need to be bypassed.

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i am an idiot, I appreciate the feedback. However, keep in mind I spent time on the phone with Metra themselves who had noted in their database that there were two types of Infinity Amplifiers produced in 2007-2008. One of them works with their harness (CHTO-02), and the other does not at all. When asked how do I tell what kind of amp I have, they said there is no way of telling. Do I find that hard to believe?... Yes. Do I find it odd that there is not a SINGLE thread anywhere else about this online?... YES. Will my amp turn on with either of the TWO kits I got from Best Buy?... NO. Will it even work after purchasing Metra's competitors kit from PAC, the C2R-CHY4?.. STILL NO! So in conclusion and from days of personal experience.. the amplifier indeed will need to be bypassed.

buddholly wrote:

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You can use a metra 70-8901 at the factory amp to grab your speaker wires.

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buddholly, pretty cool. Looks like you unplug the factory plug going to the amp and plug this into the harness side and then splice wire leads back to the deck. Would've been cheaper than the bypass harness and probably neater, especially with some 9 conducter audio pipe. Oh well.. hopefully bypass comes in today so I can put this to bed.

I looked in to it a little more and it seems like it was kind of hit or miss using the integration harnesses. I've done them before and never had the issue of no sound but I saw others who were having the exact same issue and bypassing is the only solution. Worth it in my opinion considering an aftermarket radio and new speakers is a vast improvement on the infinity system anyways. stupid data turn-on...

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buddholly wrote:

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I looked in to it a little more and it seems like it was kind of hit or miss using the integration harnesses. I've done them before and never had the issue of no sound but I saw others who were having the exact same issue and bypassing is the only solution. Worth it in my opinion considering an aftermarket radio and new speakers is a vast improvement on the infinity system anyways. stupid data turn-on...

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Yes sir. I am going to see what it sounds like with the stock speakers powered by the Kenwood DDX470. If I absolutely cannot deal with the performance I will upgrade to a 4 channel amp. I already drilled a hole through the would be clutch plate on the firewall, ran the reverse wire from the TIPM and the RCA cable for the reverse camera through. I put a big enough grommet to accommodate for a power lead if needed.

I was looking at first to run all Kenwood speakers if I decide, but now I am leading towards the Infinity Kappa series. Plus I would be able to utilize the stock "Infinity" badges on the doors! lol...

What are your thoughts about the two or any other?

Just to put an end to this thread. Metra bypass came in today and installed with no issues. Finally the Kenwood DDX470 is up and running after two failed attempts at trying to maintain the factory amp. Even got to keep the RAP intact by tapping accessory off the back of the cigarette lighter. So for anyone else that is trying to bypass a 2007-2008 Dodge Ram with Infinity Sound system.. IT MAY NOT BE POSSIBLE!

Cheers!