battery

I have opted out of the 2nd battery in the back option.

I now would like to just upgrade my under the hood battery, and since it is under the hood I don't really need an AGM.

My current battery is an AutoZone, with specs below

CA - 625A

CCR - 500a

Reserve Capacit - 80

and it works, but I get a bit of voltage drop after a while, 2360 total watts, max amp draw is 210A and my alt is 220A

So, as I was going to use a XS Power D5100 (AGM) @ $250 with specs as below

MAX Amps – 3100
CA – 745A
RC – 100min.
Ah – 60

But I also could go with a Bosch (NON-AGM) @ $140 with below specs

CCA - 850

CA - 1000

RC - 180min @ 25A

OR

Bosch Marine/RV Deep Cycle/Starting @ $126

CCA - 725

CA - 900

RC - 205min @ 25A

I am budgeted so please tell me if one of the BOSCH will give me more of what I need or if you have another suggestion for an under the hood battery

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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

I'd avoid AGM.

Get the biggest AH.

And not that I like Bosch...

They don't list AH on other than the XS Power one

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2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

Get in touch with the manufacturer.

Check out Deka and Kinetik if they have flooded batteries (I know they have AGMs).

Otherwise the Bosch's seem the best, probably the $140 since it has a marginally better reserve than the Marine/RV Deep Cycle/Starting despite the Marine being a deep cycle (hence CCA & CA sacrificed for the benefit of deep cycle, but since crankers/starters are usually a 20% discharge versus 50% for deep cycles...).

So, as long as I am driving and my alt is putting out, this battery will give me some more back up capacity than the current stock battery?

and when it is not running, the new Bosch will keep up a bit longer than the stock battery?

-------------
2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

I think so, but I'd have to review how figs are calculated.

The Reserve Capacity RC afaik is how many minutes it'll last at 25A after a certain drain - maybe its CA for x seconds or minutes.
But that is also to a certain depth of discharge - maybe 20% for crankers, and 50% for deep cycles.


But it is total capacity you want - ie, AH.
There are factors that modify the desire for AH - eg, if your cranking current ages or damages the battery quicker. Maybe even driving profile.   


And keep in mind your alternator can only output 220A above certain RPM, and battery recharge rate (and terminal voltage) depends on its internal resistance.



As always, the best way to assess performance (and monitor system condition) is a voltmeter that measures the voltage across the battery terminals.

That's fine, I have a Stinger Volt meter in dash and will move the leads direct to the battery with a switch

I think I just need a bit more than I currently have

-------------
2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

Yeah...

Mind you I'd keep your current (pun?) battery whilst it's still good.

Otherwise it's the same old issue - the bigger the battery (as in AH), the better and longer lived the system.
A bigger battery is less strain for an alternator (despite what so many say - they do not consider the overall alternator usage!).
A bigger battery has a shallower discharge for a given load and hence should last longer.
Better hold up (lower battery voltage drops) should mean better equipment performance and mean lower currents for constant power loads like HIDs & amps and hence better efficiency and life.


The problem is that batteries have different constructions.
A deep cycle is less suited for high currents (cranking and big audio) hence they age quicker.   
A cranker is less suited to deep discharge hence it ages quicker if over discharged.
An AGM does not like supplying excessively high currents and is easily damaged by overcharging (generally voltage) and excess discharge.
AGMs do not like heat.
AGMs cannot normally be recovered after excessive discharge (unless perhaps immediately recharged).


FYI....
Hence for engine bay and cranking batteries, it's generally flooded cells for best economy & reliability. I recently read the batteryuniversity.com saying AGMs were not for under bonnet applications.
Meanwhile some audio fools put their audio batteries in the engine bay for "added capacity". Now unless they have limited space and can't therefor spend less to get twice the battery capacity, they certainly appear to be Idiots!



PS - what makes you think you need "more" than you currently have?

Since my upgrade, while driving for about 45min and listening at 3/4, my amps were cutting out a couple times. (not hot at all) 

Turned the system off for the rest of the drive and was fine after that.

Also, before the upgrade I would never drop under 13v while running the engine, even at idle (with the larger pulley) I put out over 14v and since the upgrade on big bass hits it can drop to 12.6 or so.

and with the car off, I can drop further momentarily.

So I figure I needed a higher current or capacity battery (or a second battery) to help cover these occasions 

also, it is way easier, not to mention way cheaper to buy a bigger Interstate or Bosch for under the hood than buy a sealed for in the cab

-------------
2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

Found this DEKA, but it's AGM, great price though

-------------
2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0

The voltage drop whilst driving shows that the alternator is not outputting enough to cover total demand.

A bigger or more batteries does not change that, it just means the battery has more reserve to supply so it takes longer to drop from (say) 12.6V to 12.5V etc.

If the battery is above (say) 12.7V whilst driving, then the alternator is supplying enough current - or rather, the battery is not discharging (excluding the surface charge that a battery has after being charged - ie, it will typically be ~13.5V reducing to ~12.7V as the surface charge depletes).


Keep in mind that a battery showing (say) 11.5V under load might be fully charged. Load current times the battery's internal resistance is the voltage drop between the battery's "internal" voltage and its terminals (V = IR).
Remove the load and the terminals will return to the internal voltage, and may then slowly increase if partly discharged as the battery undergoes some self recovery.   


For the sake of spending the same on a Deka AGM whilst having nothing wrong with your existing battery, I'd consider going dual battery (with isolator) even if the AGM is in the engine bay.
You then have cranking independence if the amp is on when not charging, and an emergency cranking battery if your main fails.
Tho the heat may not be that good, you extend the life of both batteries by halving the load - ie, halving the discharge rate and depth).


Furthermore, with a dual battery setup you should recover more total charge during the times the alternator does exceed other loads.
IE - if other loads total 150A and the alternator is revved enough for 200A output, your main might only accept 20A so the extra potential 30A is not output. But a second battery might absorb that available 30A - especially if it's an AGM.
(AGMs having ~half the internal resistance of equivalent wet cell accept ~twice the charge current of an equivalent discharged wet cell).   
Of course that is another reason why an AGM might be used instead of a wet cell as the main cranker.


It's all so very simple isn't it? (LOL! not?)