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using a distribution block

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136776
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 11:56 PM


Topic: using a distribution block

Posted By: zac-srs13
Subject: using a distribution block
Date Posted: June 09, 2014 at 4:47 AM

I've read a bunch of forums and for some reason can't find a straight answer. Couldn't think of a better place to ask my questions. I'm trying to wire in two amps: one for my speakers and one for my sub. I am planning to run 1/0 gauge wire --> 150A Inline Fuse --> Distribution Block (Outputs with 60A Fuse each Output)  --> 4 gauge wire leading to each amp. Simple enough set up I beleive. Just want to make sure this is correct. Thanks guys! 

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Never stop learning



Replies:

Posted By: itsyuk
Date Posted: June 10, 2014 at 3:36 AM
what are the amplifiers?
have you upgraded the "big 3" as mentioned on this site?

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.




Posted By: zac-srs13
Date Posted: June 10, 2014 at 9:30 AM
I have not. I have a 2011 Camaro and from I've read no one has don't it. The oem battery set up is in the trunk so I think maybe that's why no one does it.

The two amps are:

Alpine MRP-M500 500RMS
Alpine PDR-F50 500RMS

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Never stop learning




Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: June 10, 2014 at 12:57 PM
The big-3 should still apply, it's just that you probably rely on chassis/body grounding from the battery to engine/alternator.

But having the amps in the back near the battery helps - ie, the heavy amp runs will be short.

At full blast your amps might draw 50A each - ie, 100A total.
Usually for rear mounted cranking batteries the alternator to battery cable uses the battery +12V to startermotor so it should be heavy enough assuming typical (non reduction) starter currents upwards of 200A. Then again, maybe their starters will handle relatively large voltage drops, and if a reduction type, well... mine takes 140A (instead of 240A for the OEM starter) and it cranks fine with a 5V battery voltage.
Anyhow, normally you might just fatten up the alternator to starter cable. (That apparently is the 'big 4' since the big 3 only deals with grounds... )





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