Remote On, Amplifier Pop loud

Hello:

Thank you for your help in the past, it has been invaluable to me. I did donate money to what I think is the same site, so I hope that helps you out.   

I have the following system in my 1994 Chevy K2500 truck:

Phoenix Gold Xenon 600 watt monoblock amp
Soundstream Reference 414s four channel amp (U.S. made)
Soundstream Reference 500s two channel amp (U.S. made)

The Soundstream amplifiers have been rebuilt by Wade Stewart. They have a LOT of power and were converted to Class A architecture.

Audiocontrol 6xs electronic crossover

Relay controlled remote turn on (as recommended by members of this forum), properly fused at the head unit wire to the relay.

The head unit is not changed. It is an older Sony high end head unit with three preamp outs, 4 volt output.

The problem is new. I swapped out all the amps from a prior system. And I swapped out the electronic crossover. The remote turn on results in a very loud pop from all six channels from the high pass channels. I can't tell if the Xenon amp is popping since it runs the subs and that is a very low frequency for a pop.

Any ideas to make this go away? All power feeds are identical to the prior amp install and there was no such pop when those amps were in. I was running two U.S. made Soundstream amps and a Zapco AG360 amp previously. And a Sony electronic crossover. The fancy 1000 model.

I tried changing the relay and no difference.

Thanks!

Mike

-------------
Chronic, late stage optimist.

With the system on, remove the remote wire from the crossover, then reinsert it. Does it pop under either of those situations?

Are you sure the constant and remote are not mixed up on the crossover?

I will have to examine the three wires to the electronic crossover to answer your question. However, there are lamps on the electronic crossover. They only come on after the head unit is switched on. That tells me the power is correctly wired.

I have to wait until the weekend to try taking off the remote wire and putting it back on. But thanks, I will check it and post the results.

But if they were crossed, the remote circuit only has a 500 milliamp fuse (to protect the head unit blue wire circuit), and the crossover requires a one or two amp fuse, so I would think that small value fuse would blow.

-------------
Chronic, late stage optimist.

Are you positive that amp is 1-ohm stable? I have seen a number of amps state that they are 1-ohm stable, but in real-life application, the results are mixed at best.

Temporarily, have you tried wiring the subs in series and showing the amp a 4-ohm load? If your results are different, then perhaps thats your answer.

I have a KAC-9105D and I run it at 4-ohms no problem. However, myself and many others from reviews I have read have had problems with that amp at 1-ohm - even though the manufacturer claims it's 1-ohm stable (funny - their newer model no longer claims this which further confirms my suspicions). I know it's not the same amp, but it could be the same situation.

Hi, the subwoofer amplifier is wired for two ohms, not one. I can check the manual for that amplifier about the one ohm stability. I think it can be wired down to one or a half ohm. I prefer not to wire any amplifiers lower than two ohms. Personal preference. (I am switching one of the amplifiers to 8 ohm speakers).

-------------
Chronic, late stage optimist.

Are you 100% positive they are wired for 2 ohms at the amp?

Yes, it is wired correctly at the amplifier terminals.

-------------
Chronic, late stage optimist.

I don’t know your history with car audio, so don’t take this personally if this comes off to you as beginner 101.

You said it’s wired correctly at the amp terminals, but what about the wires on your actual speakers inside the box?

Hello, all:

I found no wiring problems with my electronic crossover or with my subwoofers. I had to temporarily remove the electronic crossover from the system to trouble shoot another issue, and when I did that, the loud pop was not there (there is still a faint pop and what seems like a long delay for turn on for the amps).

It seems as though the problem might be originating from the head unit. I am rewiring all leads for the harness for the head unit because someone else did it and I don't like some of what they did. So I will see if this improves things. I was not getting any sound from the front door speaker system at all (faint sound but no music). When I took out the electronic crossover, I had sound to the components in the truck doors. It is strange because there are four front channels and the other two front channels sounded fine with the electronic crossover (and all the other channels were fine too).

-------------
Chronic, late stage optimist.