Clipping in Speakers and Head Unit Gain

Ok so I'm getting really pitchy highs when I turn my volume up on my Kenwood KFC-X303 cd receiver. I had a friend tell me to lower the right end of the line graph and I did so. Then he told me to lower the gain. I'm pretty new to car audio so I found two gains one in the crossover and one in DTE settings on the head unit.

I turned down the tweeter front right, front left, rear right, rear left, in the DTE settings to -3db from zero.

Then I turned down the tweeter gain left and gain right to -3db from zero as well. I also turned the front HPF and Rear HPF gain to -3db from zero as well.

This didn't seem to help the clipping. I'm using 14 awg wire at a length of about 20 feet each to each speaker. Don't know exactly what ohm setup it is but i would imagine if it's 2 ohm then maybe the speaker can't handle that power from the amp in my head unit maybe? (22 watts rms). Also am using a 30 volt ac to dc converter for my home don't know if this matters though.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks guys.

There is no make or model to my car since I'm using this in a home.

How high is the volume when this starts to occur (30 out of 35, higher, lower, etc.)? Is it on one particular source (AM/FM/CD) or all? What speakers are you using and what is their rated impedance?

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Thanks a lot for the reply my dude It starts at about 18-20 out of 35 and it's on auxiliary source all the time. I believe the speakers are 2 way jbls but I'll have to take them apart to find out. And by impendence do you mean the wattage? I would imagine they could handle the 22 watts from the decks built in amp wattage. But yeah I'll have to know what you mean by impendance. I'll try and take them apart now.

Yeah so I just tore it apart it's a 4 ohm impendance 39-3200 frequency response and 60-130 watt power handling
and the make / model Is a mb quart qm 1269 kx

Are you using a phone as the input? Is this while you are charging?

If so, are you able to use the USB input instead?

If not, you can try a ground loop isolator.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

30 volt AC to DC converter? Need more details on this. Have you used a volt meter to see what the voltage is across the radio yellow wire and chassis of radio?

I'm sorry I didnt leave all the info with you guys as I'm pretty new to this but to answer your questions:

No I'm not using a phone as the input I'm using auxilary but the problem still exsists with other in puts such as usb (of that I've tried)

I'm going to be talking with my dads friend tomorrow who basically builds sound systems from the ground up so I'll mention the ground loop isolator to him when he gets here. thanks again for taking the time to reply to my message.

@I am an idiot--

Ok so I got the box for it right here. It's called a Pyramid PSV-300 Fully Regulated Low Ripple 30 Amp Switching DC Power Supply. I guess my dad just calls it an ac to dc converter. I'm pretty sure you know already but for those who don't it just basically makes it so I can use my cars sound system in my house/room -- Which is what I am doing.

Hopefully this helps you guys help me. Thanks again.

Is the power supply able to put out enough current it may have issues, are these speakers wired to one channel each? How about correct speaker polarity? The deck will do exactly that if its wired with two speakers in parallel making 2ohm load. Work just fine up to about half volume. Any way you can substitute a car battery to see if the issue is the power supply?

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Do it movin! "I still have the Twindows modules from My 86 mr2 in the bottom of my box"

The speakers polarity are good. Idk why it would be a 2ohm load when they are 4 ohm speakers as well as the head unit being set for I believe 4 ohms (but I'd have to check). I believe in the front of the ac to dc converter the speakers I believe are hooked up from left side back of the head unit as well as the ac to dc converter being hooked up to the same spot with the same type of speaker wire cable to the front negative and positive terminals of the ac to dc converter (siwtching dc power supply) also the same speaker wire is hooked up to the back of the sub amp to the same terminals the speaker wire is hooked up to on the ac to dc converter. with the exception of one being a higher gage I htink 8 guage wire being hooked up to the positive (red) terminal on the ac to dc converter. Hopefully this all made sense to you man. I doubt it is the power supply because people have hooked up 600 watt amps to it with pleanty of other power but it's entirely a possibility since I have a pretty beefy double 10" 300 watt rms subs with 300 watt rms amp to it. I guess worst case scenario if my new polk audio mm1 series speakers have the same problem then it's definitely worth considering.

Johnslacker
I am sitting here reading your response and it is almost as if I swallowed five hits of acid and am trying to put this all together.
First off; now bear with me, what I am understanding is that you are powering a deck off a large power supply?
Ok check. the issue you are having is a harshness in your highs? Got it!
Now a few things, those white grey and green and purple wires coming off your head unit are powering one speaker each?
Correct?
There is no setting for ohms on the deck or adjustment of any kind so Im wondering about that statement.
Next, the power supply that should be hooked up to the red and yellow wires going to the deck is also powering another amplifier,
presumably running some subwoofers ; connected with 8awg wire to the power supply as well?
Ok lets troubleshoot this one component at a time.
First and foremost with that 8awg disconnected from the whole deal, and just the deck hooked up does your issue go away?    
If so, the amplifier is exceeding the power output of that power transformer that your using.
It may say 800 watts output but that is a pretty exaggerated figure I am sure.
I could be wrong on this, but my understanding is that would maybe be the highest possible output at some ridiculous amount of distortion; say 25 percent.
Lets say thats not the problem, and the highs are still squealing like Ned Beatty in Deliverance.
With just the deck hooked up one at a time disconnect the speakers and see if maybe one of them has some issue causing a short on a tweeter maybe?
To test them with a ohm meter is the only real way to tell if they are in spec.
They should read 4 ohms on a meter, all the exact same.
Lets say they all do and the polarities are correct all the way around.
Positive speaker terminal connected to a grey with no stripe and negative speaker terminal connected to the grey with a black stripe for your left front speaker ect.
Next step I would take would be checking the settings on the deck and making sure they are all in the middle positions crossovers all set flat.
Did any of that fix this?
Lets see some pictures of this if you can not the components just the wire connections.
Hope this somehow has helped, interested to see what the issue was when you get it solved.
George D Gzhookupz



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Do it movin! "I still have the Twindows modules from My 86 mr2 in the bottom of my box"