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Amps?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=14733
Printed Date: September 13, 2025 at 12:31 PM


Topic: Amps?

Posted By: 2f2f4evva
Subject: Amps?
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 8:33 PM

Ok guys i got some questions for ya.  i have four 10 inch subs and two 12 inch subs.  i am hooking each pair of subs (two 10 inch, two 10 inch, and two 12 inch) to a seperate amp.  the tens are being hooked up to 760 watt amps and the twelves are going to be hooked up to a 1000 watt amp.  the thing is, i have no clue how to hook all those amps up.  i know i need a couple more batteries but what about my alternator?  isnt that gonna sh*t the bed too?  and how do i hook it all in together?  please help.  any would be appreciated

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"It don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...winning's winning



Replies:

Posted By: esmith69
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 8:50 PM
What are the brands and model numbers for all the subs and amps?  We need this info to be able to give you the best answer.

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Ethan
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"Patience, persistence, and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success"
Donate to the12volt.com




Posted By: 2f2f4evva
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 8:56 PM
the tens are XS-L101P5, the twelves are XS-L121P5, the 760 watts amps are both XM-2150GSX, and the 1000 watt is an XM-2165GTX.  thanx for the help man!

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"It don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...winning's winning




Posted By: 2f2f4evva
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 9:16 PM
they are all sony by the way.

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"It don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...winning's winning




Posted By: esmith69
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 10:01 PM

son of a whore I just wrote a long thing and then accidently pressed by 4th mouse button and bye bye!  okie well the two 10" amps need a 50A 8 gauge power connection and the other amp needs a 60A 4 gauge connection.  You'll need to use a single 2-gauge fused (200A ANL) power cable to a distribution block like this one.

Since they are all class AB 2-channel amps and 4-ohm subs, just hook them up as if they were regular old speakers (i.e. one per amplifier output channel).  And also since all the amps have preamp outputs, you can just run a single pair of RCAs from your head unit to one of the amps, then from that amp to the next, and then finally to the third amp.  So you'll need 2 pairs of really short RCAs in addition to the remote-turn on and RCA that runs to the head unit.

oh crap I almost forgot...what kind of head unit do you have?  cuz since you're powering three amps you're probably going to want to use a relay for the turn-on wire.  here's some advice i just gave someoen who also was putting in 3 amps in their car.  You'll need an SPDT 30A Bosch style automotive relay--go to your local best buy car installation shop and they will know exactly what you're talking about:

You don't need to use the fans, they were just part of that example diagram.  only if your amps are overheating a lot should you even consider using fans.  With the relay hooked up you could hook up at least 5 different amplifiers' turn-on leads--just substitute an amplifier for one of the fans, in the diagram.

Let me see if I can better explain how to do the relay.  Assuming all 3 amplifiers are mounted near each other, you will run a single 16 or 18-gauge wire from the eclipse head unit's remote turn on wire (either solid blue, or if present, blue/white).  This single wire will then run back to where all the amps are, and then you will do the relay connection right there near the amps.  The  remote turn on wire coming directly from the head unit will hook up to pin 86 on the relay.

Remember that a relay is basically a switch, and you are using it as a switch for the 3 amps, because your head unit might not be able to put out enough remote turn on current to take care of all three amps.  The reason the relay CAN handle all 3 amps is because it's also getting an additional power source, in this case pin 87.  I would recommend hooking this pin 87 up to one of the amp's (doesn't matter which one) +12 volts constant power input.  Whichever amp you choose, you'll still need to run the red power cable directly from the battery or a distro. block to the constant power terminal.

Now the relay will be able to have a good strong source of constant power, so that when the head unit sends it's weak turn on signal, the relay kind of amplifies the turn-on signal using the power it gets via pin 87.  Each amplifier's turn-on connection will run to the same pin 30 of the relay; just solder all three wires at the same point.  Also make sure to put a 1A fuse inline on each of the 3 amplifier's remote turn on wires coming out from pin 30.

There's no need to hook the relay up to the battery directly via a separate wire, as it does not draw much current  and can safely be "piggybacked" onto one of the amp's positive power input terminals.

Hopefully I didn't confuse you too much....posted_image



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Ethan
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"Patience, persistence, and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success"
Donate to the12volt.com




Posted By: wvsquirrel
Date Posted: June 10, 2003 at 10:22 PM
Be careful with the daisy chaining though. Some amps require special adapters/settings on the amp to do that (although Sony's aren't usually that complicated, and I believe it's usually more for class D amps then class AB). I'm also not sure if the amps settings will affect the signal going to the next amp (crossover settings, low pass filter, phase, etc...)

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com




Posted By: 2f2f4evva
Date Posted: June 11, 2003 at 9:15 AM

thank you guys.  sont doesnt make my head unit any more, and since i'm in school right now i will try to find it either in studyhall or at home.  check in later with more info if you want.   thanx

kevin



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"It don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...winning's winning




Posted By: esmith69
Date Posted: June 11, 2003 at 10:00 AM

wvsquirrel I checked that at the crutchfield site and both amps output a full-range pass through signal.  I agree that with some amps it's not the best idea, but with his amps (2) XM-2150GSX & (1)XM-2165GTX, I don't think he'll have any problem with the pass-through preouts.



-------------
Ethan
-----
"Patience, persistence, and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success"
Donate to the12volt.com




Posted By: 2f2f4evva
Date Posted: June 11, 2003 at 11:47 AM
oh yea, what about my alternator?  am i going to have to get one of those heavy duty ones?

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"It don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...winning's winning




Posted By: esmith69
Date Posted: June 11, 2003 at 1:26 PM
Well you're looking at adding on a load of at least 75A constant, and depending on how hard you push the amps it could get as high as 125A-140A.  That's more than a lot of vehicles' alternators put out TOTAL.  I would highly recommend either looking at a high output alternator or possibly getting yours rebuilt.   I think Big Purds is the alternator expert around here...might wanna try getting in touch with him about them.

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Ethan
-----
"Patience, persistence, and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success"
Donate to the12volt.com




Posted By: 2f2f4evva
Date Posted: June 11, 2003 at 7:39 PM
thank you guys.  you all help me a lot.  if anybody needs to know anything simple juss lemme know.  im gonna try to get in touch with that guy.  thanks againposted_image

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"It don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...winning's winning




Posted By: wvsquirrel
Date Posted: June 11, 2003 at 10:36 PM
Thx for the double check esmith posted_image

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com





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