i have two amps and two 12's and a 1 farat cap, why does my battery keep dying when im driving/parked with engine on. also my cap dosnt turn off ever.
The cap never turns off, but it leaks little current when the amps are off. Im assuming you have a stock alternator...? Your alternator cannot keep up with the current you are drawing and the cap is not helping. When your amps draw a good deal of current it is pulled from the line (some from the battery some from the cap) this then causes the alternator to charge the battery while the cap and amps are drawing current as well. Bottom line.... You need an alternator that can provide more current. Im assuming that your alternator is in good shape currently, it is possible that your alternator is not working properly, either way you need to replace it now or when it becomes damaged from the overdraw. Or turn it down...
yes i do have a stock alterator, thank for the info. shold i replace my alterantor with a better one or should i not. if i do, how much should they cost?
Before you replace your alternator have your battery checked. You could have a dead cell in your battery which causes it to die when place under a load. I am not sure what you mean that your cap remains on, does you cap have a digital voltage meter on it that lights up and stays on. If so this is not normal, they normally cut off after a few minutes of low to no current activity.
If the average current draw of the audio system exceeds the maximum output of the alternator by a large amount, then it might be time to consider an alternator upgrade. A simple test is to start the vehicle, turn on the most commonly used vehicle accessories, then crank the audio system to full volume just under clipping. If the average battery voltage is above 13 volts, then the battery will receive sufficient charge from the alternator. No need to replace the alternator here. Assuming that the average current draw of the system is too high for the OEM charging system and the average battery voltage drops below 13 volts, it would make sense to install a high output alternator rather than extra batteries. Remember that when the vehicle is running, the battery is a load to the alternator.
Keep in mind that the high output alternator should have more output than the OEM alternator and high engine speeds, but may have less output than the OEM alternator at idle speed. If the vehicle will be driven in heavy stop and go traffic, the battery may not receive a sufficient charge.
My battery has check system when it turns red its no longer good but mine is still green, so im assuming its still good, yes i have a digital cap and it doesnt turn off.also my head lights and dash board lights blink on and off with the bass. (they stay onn they just git realy dim)
Don't rely on the battery indicator. Take it to an automotive shop like Advance Auto or Discount Auto Parts and have them electronically check you alternator and battery (they will test both for free). I've seen too many of those indicators fail and remain "green" even when the battery has damaged/dead cells.
Any lights going dim in the vehicle when the bass hits indicates that either you are not supplying sufficient voltage to the electrical system from the alternator or you have a damaged/degraded battery (or it could be problems with the alternator
and battery). A good quality HO alternator will run you between $300 - $600. Bberman1 and Big Purds are the HO Alternator experts in here
-------------
Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com