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amp keeps going into protect mode

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=17512
Printed Date: June 03, 2024 at 8:09 PM


Topic: amp keeps going into protect mode

Posted By: bigballer
Subject: amp keeps going into protect mode
Date Posted: August 12, 2003 at 7:24 PM

alright, i have 2 alpine type r 12's in a 2000 honda civix. they used to work fine except my lights would dim alot a night when i played them, but now the amp keeps going into protect mode while my other amp running the inside speakers works fine. i dont know what to do. the fuses are fine and i think the battery is ok,(the battery indicator is still green)and my digital cap dosent ever turn off and i was under the impression that they slowly trikles down, (but i could be wrong). what should i do?

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Replies:

Posted By: spl/luxy
Date Posted: August 12, 2003 at 7:39 PM

 What amps are you using ?.  Do you have a birth sheet for the amps?

And how are the subs wired up?

What impedence are the subs?

Cable size to the amps?

Earth to the amplifiers?

if you can give me this info i should be able to help out?



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Australia's Loudest Street Max 3-4 Car Ever!




Posted By: MAXST
Date Posted: August 12, 2003 at 8:23 PM
your either pulling too much of a load and your charging system isnt up to par.

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I need quality equipment, feel free to donate.




Posted By: hobbes6981
Date Posted: August 12, 2003 at 8:41 PM
yeah I agree with Maxst. If your pulling a lower ohm load than the amp is safe at then watch out. And how much ventilation are those amps getting? The more the better.




Posted By: bryceyaworsky
Date Posted: August 12, 2003 at 10:01 PM

You may want to switch the amps and try using your rear amp to run the mids.   Just try it for a minute and see if the amp goes into protection mode.  If it does then you should take it in to have it looked at.  If it works, even at higher volumes, put it back to the rear and try it again.  If something's wrong with the amp it'll go into protection mode.  Again, this means take it in.

I'm assuming that you have a proper impedence going to the amp, and that you don't have the gain cranked.  I had a similar problem once, and it turned out to be pricey.  If your amp is still under warranty, do some testing in your car to make sure it is broken, and if so take it in pronto.





Posted By: bbmecp
Date Posted: August 12, 2003 at 11:49 PM

It could also be a blown sub with the voice coils shorting only when put under a large load as when the bass hits or even possibly a blown channel in the amp which only shorts under a large load. I did two years as a authorized repair tech for pioneer, sony, aiwa, kicker, and JL, and it could be either of those or what these other guys are saying but if you are familiar with your setup and have an dmm then just start testing each piece.



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everyone calls me subwoofer




Posted By: msf145
Date Posted: August 13, 2003 at 12:49 AM
i had a problem the other day. my alpine amp was going into protect mode. it was because the wries on the output were frayed and one strand was crossing from the + to the -. see if the speaker wire somehow became loose and crossed over. sounds dumb but thats what happened to mine.




Posted By: fuseblower
Date Posted: August 13, 2003 at 9:20 AM

If your amp plays your subs at low volumes it could be that you have blown a sub.  Depending on how your system is wired disconnect both subs from your amp terminals.  Trun on the system and see if the amp goes into protect mode.  It it does you have and internal amp issue.  If it does not try each sub independently.  By doing this you will be able to see which sub may be blown or shorting out.  

I recently had the experince of my subs shutting my amp down on two different systems.  One was because one of the coils were blown in one of my subs and the other was that the wires connecting the terminal leads to the voice coil were touching the casket of the sub when it bounced...





Posted By: bigballer
Date Posted: August 13, 2003 at 10:55 AM

im using a rockwood 4080 amp it says 1400 watts with 4 channels, im running 4 guage power and 4 guage grnd wires

i dont know what a birth sheet is.

the subs are bridged

i know the subs arent blown because i hooke a brand new sub to my amp.

the subs are 1000 watts  and 300 rms



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Posted By: spl/luxy
Date Posted: August 14, 2003 at 8:26 AM
bigballer wrote:

im using a rockwood 4080 amp it says 1400 watts with 4 channels, im running 4 guage power and 4 guage grnd wires

i dont know what a birth sheet is.

the subs are bridged

i know the subs arent blown because i hooke a brand new sub to my amp.

the subs are 1000 watts  and 300 rms


Well a birth sheet is a bit of paper that tells you the exact  rms outputs of an amplifier.

I think that you may need to re-check all connections again,make sure the impedence load on the amp isnt too low for the amp.What is the impedance on the subs and are they svc or dvc.What size box are they in.If you cant find some of this info out it may be a bit hard to help you out sorry .Info on the subs are on the back of the magnet if you dont have a birthsheet or for the amp have alook for a website.let me know how u go.



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Australia's Loudest Street Max 3-4 Car Ever!




Posted By: bigballer
Date Posted: August 16, 2003 at 1:34 PM

heres some of the specs on the subs they are in a sealed box for 12's that i got at a auto sound shop

 

Specs:

      General-Subwoofers

    • Diaphragm Material : Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
    • Magnetic Weight : 89.4oz.
    • Mounting Depth (top mount) : 178mm (7”)
    • Mounting Diameter (top mount) : 275mm (10-7/8”)
    • Recommended Box Types : Sealed/Vented/Bandpass
    • Recommended Sealed Box Volume : 0.7 – 1.0 cu. ft.
    • Spider Material : Nomex
    • Voice Coil Diameter : 50mm

      Power Handling

    • Power Handling Capacity (Peak) : 1000W
    • Power Handling Capacity (RMS) : 300W

      Thiel Small Parameters

    • Coil Height (Hvc) : 37.74mm
    • Cone Area (Sd) : 467.59 sq. cm
    • D.C.Coil Resistance (Re) : 3.6 ohm + 3.6 ohm
    • Electrical Q (Qes) : 0.45
    • Equivalent Suspension Stiffness (Vas) : 58 liters(2.04cu.ft.)
    • Free Air Resonance (Fs) : 28Hz
    • Frequency Response : 24Hz - 1kHz
    • Gap Height (Hag) : 10mm
    • Impedance (Nominal) : 4 ohm + 4 ohm
    • Inductance (Le) : 3.85mH at 1kHz (1.34mH at 20kHz)
    • Linear Excursion (X linear) : 13.87mm
    • Maximum Excursion (X peak) : 27.7mm
    • Mechanical Excursion (Peak-to-Peak) : 55mm
    • Mechanical Q (Qms) : 8.31
    • Sensitivity : 87 dB/W/M
    • Total Loudspeaker Q (Qts) : 0.43

    here are the specs for the amp:

    4 CH. 1400 W/Max

    1400 Watts Stereo Amplifier
    Max. Power Output: 350W x 4Ch. (@ 2ohm)
    Bridged Mono: 290W x 2Ch. (@ 4ohm)
    Variable High Pass Filter (50Hz - 1KHz)
    Tri-Method Speaker Hook Up Capability
    Multi Channel Function
    Bass Boost
    Variable Low Pass Filter (30Hz - 250Hz)
    Frequency Response: 15Hz - 30KHz
    2-8 ohm Load Capability
    Low & High Level Input
    Variable Gain Control
    Gold Plated RCA & Speaker Terminals
    Power-On LED Indicator
    Channel Separation: Better Than 55dB
    Signal to Noise Ratio: Better Than 80dB






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