Distribution Block Question

If you have an inline fuse or breaker at the battery do you really need a fused distribution block in the rear or can you just run a standard distribution block?  The very first car I ever owned yeeears ago, a friend wired up for me!  He's a professional installer and he used a fused block so every car i've owned since then and have done myself I've used a fused block.  I currently have 4g power running to a fused block and then 8g to the amps, I want to upgrade to 0/1 gauge and split it to 4g to run to my new amp which pushes out 1500 mono!   

should be no problem usin non-fused distrubution block after the main fuse so long as the main fuse is the correct size for the current draw you intend pullin out of the battery.  Use the guide below to determine the correct size.

https://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

mj239air wrote:

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You need to have the fuse block in the rear also because you want the smaller fuse to blow before you bigger amp blows. Your fuse up front is big enough to run everything and unless everything blows at once you will be screwed. Go with the added cost and protection and put the fuses in the back as well.

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I partially disagree with this as your main fuse is designed to protect you cars electrical system from overload not to protect the amplifier.The amplifier WILL have 1,2,3 or even 4 fuses to protect it from disaster , however there is no reason why you can't run Fused distrubution blocks it is just not an absolute necessity.   and also to run 1500wrms you shouldn't really need to go as far as 0/1 gauge cable i think that 2 gauge would be sufficient up to about 18-20ft,just add all the amplifiers rms ratings together to find out the total output then use the url i gave you to determine the right size.