loose Sub
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=19090
Printed Date: July 16, 2025 at 7:11 AM
Topic: loose Sub
Posted By: molotov_icr
Subject: loose Sub
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 2:03 PM
I have 2 15inch JL W3's in a custom box. The one on the right side is a bit loose near the bottom left corner. Air escapes from and around three screws. I've tried bigger screws but the holes are just too big now for any bigger screws. I want to epoxy the holes and redrill them. Will this work? Will it hold up? Or is there a better way to do it? I've contemplated putting a long strip of foam tape along that one side to keep the air from going out, but my screws will still be loose and I am sure the problem will find a way to continue. If anyone has ever ran into this I would really apreciate your ideas so that it can be a quick fix, thanks, peace. ------------- "If it's to loud, Then you're to old"
Replies:
Posted By: MAXST
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 2:36 PM
injecting wood glue or wood putty in the screw holes, i think would work.
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I need quality equipment, feel free to donate.
Posted By: mj239air
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 4:25 PM
Try using bolts with t-nuts next time. If you are using screws they are bound to come out and if my memory serves me correct, IASCA and USAC both say that you can't use drywall-type screws for mounting anything.
I always use hex head bolts with a t-nut for all my speakers. Never have any problems.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 5:25 PM
Quick fix: Remove the woofer and run a bead of sealant around the mounting hole. Replace the woofer sealing the entire circumference. Fill all your moutning holes with good quality wood glue and replace the screws (being sure to wipe up any excess glue.) Wait for the whole assembly to dry (6 to 12 hours) and see if it holds. Permanent fix: replace the speaker mounting baffle with a new piece of MDF and use bolts like suggested above.
Posted By: Ketel22
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 7:39 PM
mj239air wrote:
Try using bolts with t-nuts next time. If you are using screws they are bound to come out and if my memory serves me correct, IASCA and USAC both say that you can't use drywall-type screws for mounting anything.
I always use hex head bolts with a t-nut for all my speakers. Never have any problems.
What do you use to seal the bolts if anything? ------------- Quad L Handyman services
Posted By: mj239air
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 8:42 PM
I don't use anything to seal them. When I install the t-nuts, I don't drill a hole even big enough for them and have to pound them in with a hammer. Make sure you install the t-nuts into the baffle before you put it on to your box and don't pound too hard so that you don't crack the wood. Have done that on ocasion when the wood is thin in spots, then you have to start all over. When you put the bolt into the t-nut it seals up everything else. Every speaker I have ever installed has a small seal already on it.
On another note if you want a quick fix, just rotate your subs a little both ways in the hole to where you are on virgin wood(never been screwed into) and you will have 8 new holes and can do it right.
Posted By: molotov_icr
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 8:52 PM
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll go and get some of those t-nuts at the hardware store and then see if i can seal them. I can't rotate it because then the JL logo will be crooked on one side, that would not look good. Thanks a lot, peace.
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"If it's to loud, Then you're to old"
Posted By: MAXST
Date Posted: September 20, 2003 at 9:36 PM
Can i see a pic of this bolting method...im curious apple_jack2004@yahoo.com ------------- I need quality equipment, feel free to donate.
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