audiobahn amp

hey! does anybody know if this amp is any good? the audiobahn A2401Q 2-Channel Amplifer? it is 280watts mono. i want to power a JL 10W6 the older style sub. is this good enough? any suggestions? thanks!

Basically that is only a SVC sub so the most you will be getting out of that amp running at 4ohms will be 100watts rms. If your looking to power that sub you might want to look into getting a good quality 2-channel such as the JL 300/2. Basically if you use the audiobahn amp you are going to end up running the amp into clipping and risk damage to the sub as well as the amplifier.

From what I've read Audiobahn makes a very reliable amp. That one in particular is 100 x 2 @ 4ohms, 140 x 2 @ 2ohms, and 280 x 1 @ 4ohms mono. The newer JL 10W6's are 6ohm DVC rated 300RMS. Being one 6ohm DVC, you'll get a 3ohm load wired in parallel. I don't know if that amp is 2ohms Mono stable, so you may run into problems.

IMO if you have the DVC version then you would be better off finding a Class D mono amp that is 2ohm stable rated apx. 400 x 1 @ 2ohms and 200 x 1 @ 4ohms. That way you should be right around 300 x 1 @ 3ohms (close enough for gov't work anyway).

Even if you have the SVC version that Nedgeworth mentioned you would still be better off with a different amp

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
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As far as i'm aware from my readings apparently that amp is 1ohm stable. But yeah if it is the DVC version like Wvsquirrel mentioned you would be better off going with a Class D mono.

hey thanks for the information, but i still don't know what to get, actally i'm not sure what sub i have now, it's just says 10W6. i just want some more bass in my car so i don't need anything crazy, maybe something around 150 dollars. what do you recommend? thanks!

Get one of these jbl 300.1 or the 500.1

https://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=BP300.1&ser=POS&cat=AMP

they're good amps i had one (but put it in my gf's ride).

If you got the 300 it'd be perfect (not too much not too little) but if you got the 500 then it wouldn't have to work too hard.

not that it'd matter they're very solid and reliable amps.

he was right though you might want the 500 cause it'd be running at 3 ohms in parallel. so the 500 would put out about 400W whereas the 300 would put out about 150W.

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Pioneer Premier DEH-P550MP
Pioneer TS-D160R fronts
Pioneer Premier GM-X644
Clarion SRW2581 (10")

if i'm running a 500 watt amp, and at 3 ohms, does that mean i have 3 ohms of resistance therefore i really only have about 400 watts going to my sub? how do i know how many ohms i'm running? and is it selectable? thanks for all the help!

First look at the back of your sub. Does it have 1 or 2 sets of terminals (where you hook up the speaker wire to the sub)? A DVC will have 2 sets (generally on oposite sides of the sub). An SVC will only have 1 set (they mays have 4 terminals, but they are all connected on the same side of the sub). You magnet should also have the impodence (ohm) information

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
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oh, thanks! mine has 4 tabs but all on the same side, so it's a svc (what does it stand for?) what does this tell me?i can't find the ohm on it tho...

OK, SVC stands for Single Voice Coil. DVC stands for Dual Voice Coil. DVC's offer more wiring possibilities and usually have a higher RMS and Peak ratings. Let me do some reasearch and find the rest of your specs...

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

Anyone know the RMS and Peak specs of the older SVC JL 10W6?

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Squirrel
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oh...thanks can't wait til i find out more!

Ok, the dilly is...

That amp is not 1 ohm stable.
It's not even 2 ohm stable when bridged.

https://www.audiobahninc.com/products/detail.asp?productsID=60

Question is, Does the sub say 10W6AE?
As far as i know that's the only "old school JL style" W6
that is made. If that's the case, they only make a Dual 6 ohm Voice Coil model to my knowledge.

The jl sub ratings are here:
https://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/RP_Chart.html

At any rate with that amp and the 10W6AE DVC 6ohm,
You would be pushing approximately 210-230 Watts total, with the amp bridged running at 3 ohms.
Although, the amp might not like running at 3 ohm bridged, in which case against better judgement you could run each coil on a single channel (independent).
That'd give you a couple more watts but it's not recommended as any voltage inconsistencies between channels could damage the sub.

In any case given that sub, nedgeworth's JL 300/2 suggestion would be your best bet.(Although they do run about $325)

My vote is for the JBL 180.2 found here:
https://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=jblp1802
because you said Around $150.






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Pioneer Premier DEH-P550MP
Pioneer TS-D160R fronts
Pioneer Premier GM-X644
Clarion SRW2581 (10")

correct me if i'm wrong, i thought my sub was SVC?

lemme axe you dis.

are two of the four tabs soldered to tinsel leads that go to the speaker? or are there just four tabs?
and does it say 10W6AE?

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Pioneer Premier DEH-P550MP
Pioneer TS-D160R fronts
Pioneer Premier GM-X644
Clarion SRW2581 (10")

I you read earlier in this thread I asked the same question. He said he has 4 terminals on the same side of the sub. I've seen the AE's and they have 2 sets of terminals, each on opposite ends of the subs. If you read my earlier posts I said the same thing if he does have an AE (since that's all I could find info on as well). And he also said he could not find any info on the magnet.

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

sorry guys, i starting to wonder what kinda of sub this really is... can we post pics? if so how?

OH okay i'm am stupid! there are 2 sets of 4 tabs, one on each side of the magnet! i'm am sooo sorry!! what do you guys recommend now??

from what ive read the reccomendations will be the same because all the posters have assumed it was the m10W6Vae

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Quad L Handyman services

As long as you get an amp that pushes out around 300rms at 4ohms you will be very happy running that sub. That's just to put it simple instead of worrying about all the details which have been covered in previous posts.

a Class D mono amp that is 2ohm stable rated apx. 400 x 1 @ 2ohms and 200 x 1 @ 4ohms. That way you should be right around 300 x 1 @ 3ohms

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

hey thanks for the clear up! would this be a good amp to use?

THANKS i've learned soo much about subs and amps. if the amp is rates 150x2 at 4 ohms would i be able to use both channels for one sub and get 300 at 4 ohms? i think i need 3ohms, how many watts would that calc out to? sorry for the newbie to subs questions

Ok,
now if you run each channel of a two channel amp
to separate voice coils then the slight variations in the voltage that each channel puts out could damage your sub.

So,
when using a two channel amp it is advised to bridge the amp. In this manner the amp only puts out one channel
thereby eliminating that problem.

Also,
that amp would not be "stable" at such a low impedance.
Amps like all things electrical are only rated to have so much current running through them before they fry and start things on fire. That amp's specifications say that it will put out:
100 Watts through 2 channels with 4 Ohms of impedance.
Now if you lower the amount of resistance that the amp has to overcome, it works more efficiently:
140 Watts through 2 channels with 2 Ohms of impedance.
If you "bridge" the amp (read: put the channels together)
the wattage and the Impedance both double:
280 Watts through 1 channel with 4 Ohms of impedance.
Got it?
If you ask that amp to power your sub at 3 Ohms while bridged it will be trying to push more current than it's rated to push, and could fry.

In terms of your last question you'd be pushing approx. 220 Watts at 3 Ohms.

Does that cover it?


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Pioneer Premier DEH-P550MP
Pioneer TS-D160R fronts
Pioneer Premier GM-X644
Clarion SRW2581 (10")

okay i think i'm narrowing down. Will the JL 300/2 bridged to 300W work good for me? or will a monoblock still be better? thanks!

when it is bridge it is in mono right? thanks!

Yeap that's right. Bridged makes it 1channel which means Mono!

It is not true that if the terminals are on the same side that it is a single vc sub. On a JL that is especially untrue because the W6 is a dual and it IS on the same side.
I am not sure about the older W6 but the new only comes in dual 4 which means in parallel he would have 2ohms and most
2 channel amps are NOT 2ohm stable when bridged. For this sub get a mono amp for best results.

also, the 300/2 is not set up to run subs, get the 250/1 unless you plan on running it hard. if you push too hard and it is underpowered you will most likely clip the signal and damage the amp or the sub. if this is the case then go with a 500/1 and you should be fine.

Thing is it's a 3ohm model sub. So running it in paralell you would require an amp that is 1.5ohm stable. The best thing to do if unsure is write to jl and ask them for the specs of the older model sub that way the choice is easier than having to go on information you think is right.

Everything that has been suggested is approiate depending on the senario. But if you want to get the best choice you'd be best to get some more info out of JL then we can suggest a couple of exact suggestion instead of a broad range of what if's.

maybe you guys can recognize the sub....

Think you might have to try that again.

okay let me try again...

well i guess pic upload doesn't work... but i emailed JL and i post when they reply thanks again!

No probs.

I've seen the W6's and the terminals were on opposite sides of the sub. But yes, I know not all subs are like that (even though the majority of DVC's are). And the W6AE is a 3ohm DVC like Nedgeworth said

So with 1 of them you want a Class D amp that is stable at at least 1.5ohms. With 2 of them you want a Class D amp that is at least 3ohm stable

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

i checked the JL website and it seems to be the other way around when wired in parallel. If i had 2 subs then it will be 1.5 ohm and since i only have 1 it is 3 ohm, but i'm not sure if i'm reading it corretly.

it's on page 2 of the pdf manual.
https://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10_12W6AE_MAN.pdf

What they mean is that it is 3ohms per voil coil. So just think of it like you have 2subs each with a 3ohm coil. Now if you were to run these in parallel you will end up with a 1.5ohm load.

So what wvsquirrel has suggested is what you should be looking for.

I think we just keep covering the same stuff over and over here! anyone else feel like that [:P]

okay guys, JL says it's the same as the 10W6ae so all of your suggestions are good! i can't seem to find many amps that is 1.5ohm stable....any ideas?

Look into the JBP PB series amps. They are 1 ohm stable and suite your needs without a hefty price

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

Sorry about that, the amps are the JBL BP series

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

it seems like all the BP series are 2 ohm stable and the bpx series are 1 ohm stable when parallel-bridged. is this correct?

The bp's are 1 ohm stable also.

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dream it, build it, fiberglass it

If you download the pdf manual from the site you will see that they are 1ohm stable but they still have the same output as if run at 2ohms.

WOW hopfully this will be my last question before hook up! should i get the 300.1 or the 600.1? where would be a good place to get it? thanks!

The JBL BP300.1 would be your best bet. It's your "best case scenerio" amp where the RMS of the sub equals the output of the amp at the proper ohm load. With the 300.1 you can get apx. 300 watts at 1 or 2 ohms (since 1.5 ohms is in the middle it will be the same as well), and your sub is rated 300 RMS at 1.5 ohms.

I would not recommend the 600.1 for 1 reason, according to JL the "Void Warrenty" zone for the 10W6AE starts at 500 watts. The 600.1 is apx. 600 watts at 1 or 2 ohms. You could try turning the gains WAY down, but you may still damage your sub by overpowering it.

It's ultimately your decision (and money!), but I would go with 300.1

Here's a link to JBL's Where To Buy page. This will show you "authorized" retailers.
If you want to go with "unauthorized" retailers, you can try eBay or other online stores. With these you will spend less (usually like half the MSRP), but will not get the JBL factory warrenty.

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

I plan on buying mine from ikesound.com   you can get a 300.1 for $130.50 plus shipping. It is the cheapest i have been able to find.

thanks everybody! i will post again when i'm done hooking up!