Help, Which components?

I want to buy a new set of components for my car and I am between the Eclipse sc8362 6.5's and the Alpine type r 6.5 component sets. I am leaning toward eclipse because I own eclipse stuff and have owned it in the past and I know they make awesome stuff. I won't be able to demo the eclipse because I would have to order it. Which do you think????

im not sure about those two but may i also reccomend the kappa perfect series by infinity

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Quad L Handyman services

Thanks for the suggestion but it has to be between the eclipse and the alpine, that is what my local shop has that is good and I can get a killer deal on, because I do quite abit of business there.

And where in Canada are you? As an Eclipse owner yourself, go with your hunch, you will not be dissappointed. As an Eclipse dealer I know that my customers have not been.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

I live in Saskatchewan, I pretty sure that I am going to get the eclipse's because I am also going to buy 2 12 inch aluminums right away.

Before you buy the aluminums (I use these myself ) what car are they going in and what choice of amplifiers are you going to consider. Let's get you some options before you hit the store so that you get what you need, not what you want.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

They are going into my 99 neon r/t. I have a planet audio 1250d amp for the aluminums which will give them about 625 apeice give or take a little. They will be in a custom fiberglass box that I am going to build which will be sealed with 1-1.25 cubes for each sub. Also I have a 600 watt Planet 4 channel for the comps and maybe another set of comps or a coulple of 8 inch midbass(haven't decided yet). The components will be fiberglassed into my doors also.

This amp is a gret amplifier and will do the job for you. It is American built, has lots of current and a 5 year warranty. Good choice. Buy the dvc aluminum subs and wire them in a all parallel fashion to create a approximate 1 ohm mono load. Make sure you ground the amp directly to the battery. From your statement about the fibreglass, I imagine that you are doing a spare tire well. Make sure your glass is al least half an inch thick. Make sure these subs have a minimum of 1" mdf to mount to, I have seen so many of these subs blow boxes apart and even more physically rip out of their mounts.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Just curious but how come grounding the amp to the chassis isn't good enough and what gauge of wire should I use. Would 4 be good enough or should I go to 2 gauge. I don't know if I am going to glass it into the spare tire well yet, I probably will. But I had a crazy idea of trying to build it up alittle more so I could still get my spare tire in and out. Also do you know how many cubic feet are in a neon spare tire well.

Here is a whole pile of info that most salesperson do not know and even some really good installers.

(1) electricity is like an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to the other. If you put 50 amps of current into an amplifier, you must take out 50 amps as well. This is part of the reason that you must have a good ground wire. Now most installers leave it here, they ground the wire nice and short and use the ground return of the vehicle, some installers may upgrade the ground at the battery, this is better but can be improved on in most vehicles. Most vehicles today you can scratch the paint and see coca-cola underneath. They are just not built with pure metals anymore. Where I am going with this is something called resistance on a ground lead. I have seen more amplifier failures to this than any other. I have actually blown 9 amplifiers to prove this point and prove that there was a design flaw with the amplifier (Crossfire)  . What resistance on a ground lead equates to is this - go down to Subway, eat a footlong sub and then have someone sew you crack shut... get the drift. An amplifier has to get rid of all the negative current, it does this through a ground. Current flows from negative to positive, not the other way around. If you have a resistance on yuor ground of over .5 ohm then you have a really crappy ground plane in the vehicle. Test this by setting your meter to check for resistance in ohms, the neagative lead goes to ground on the battery, the positive lead to the grounding point at the back of the car (or on the ground screw of the amp) This will give you a measurement in ohms. A high (greater than .5ohm) measurement of resistance will cause an amplifier to heat up excessively, a loss of output, a loss of sound quality, a loss of control of motion of the driver and ultimitaly failure of the amplifier. The simple way for you to find out the airspace in the wheel well is to fill the space full of water...28.32 litres of water = 1cuft. of airspace. For wyour wiring in the neon 4 gauge power / ground will probably be enough, the amplifier just beacuse it has these big fuses does not draw that much current all of the time. Get yourself a 1 Farad cap at the minimum. Lightning Audio makes a good one and to it add the LL10db distribution block. This will provide you with a central power / ground distribution point for both amplifiers. It will take up to a 1/0 gauge input and has 2 4 gauge and 2 8 gauge outputs, it also bolts directly onto th capacitor (most brands). Tell me what you think or if you need clarification.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

I think the Alpine Type R's are good

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---- 1996 Chevy S10 ----
1 Lightning Audio S2.600.2 Amp
2 Lightning Audio 12" Subs
1 Lightning Audio 1 Farad Cap