2x 400watt max SPLX subs - amp?

i have 2x 400watt max SPLX subs in a ported box with the perspex front

Pics of Subs From - www.interford.com

What amp can i get?

i want to run them at two ohm mono
i was thinking of getting this amp

and running them from one channel, mono, and using thr high frequency input, inputs.

any other sugestions of amps and setups?

BiG_DaVE

as the amp pic hasnot worked, the amp is a

sony xplod - XM-D1000P5
1600watt
pentagon amp
class D
mono amp
The amp pic from external website

-------------

Most Class amps will suffice. Sony is good but if you want something that will pound I suggest the MTX Class D amplifiers, like the Thunder 801D will be a perfect match at 800 watts @ 2 ohms

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

maybe the jbl 600.1

-------------
Quad L Handyman services

ok my man

will research into that amp

thanks alot

any other suggestions?

BiG_DaVE

-------------

Friends don't let friends buy sony.

-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

how come?
whats wrong with it?

BiG_DaVE

-------------

well most people on the site will edge you away from them, my first amp was sony it was good until i got to hear my speakers with a different brand amp. basically the company doesnt do too well in the car audio world.

-------------
Quad L Handyman services

so what other amp would be good then?

needs to be mono    as i want them as 2ohm 800watt

BiG_DaVE

-------------

you said these subs are 400 watts max. what is the RMS for each sub? is you are going to run 800 watts RMS to two sub with a total 800 watts peak, they won't last long. you'd blow 'em.

eh?
Here is a pic of the sub if it helps
so what is rms???
and whats the diff between watts max and rms

im confuzzeled

BiG_DaVE

-------------

max is well the max wattage you "can" put to a sub and RMS is the root mean squared or the nomial amount of power you can put to a sub. the RMS is usually how you determine what amp to put with what sub.

with those subs i would put maybe a 150wrms to each of them. so maybe a jbl 300.1? or the 150.1 even im not sure because i cant find the subs anywhere on the net. so i cant tell for sure the Rms rating on them. if somebody knows it off hand plz share!

-------------
Quad L Handyman services

so if the are 150watt rms

and 400 watt max

it would be better to run them at around 300-350 watt?
still as mono @ 2ohm?

(i think im getting it!)
(thank u 4 helping me buy the way!)

i will find out all i can 4 u

BiG_DaVE

-------------

so would this be a better amp then?

Amp from halfords (Crappy pic tho)

and if i turned the bass leval down on it a little??

BiG_DaVE

-------------

Sony makes great home theater equipment, but when it comes to car stereo, there are better brands (at least in my, and most other people's opinions). Ketel22 was right when he suggested the JBL BP300.1. It will push 300 watts RMS for 1 or 2 ohms and 150 watts at 4 ohms. Alpine also has the MRD-M300 that will run at 300 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. JL Audio 250/1 will run 250 watts at 1.5-4 ohms, but they tend to be pretty spendy. Kicker has  the KX400.1 that will put out 400 watts RMS at 2 ohms. Rockford Fosgate has the 301M that runs 300 wattsRMS at 2 ohms, or they have the 351M that runs 350 watts RMS at 2 ohms.  There are a few other options for you.  When you say 2 ohms you are going to wire your subs in series right? I am assuming they are both single voice coil with a 4 ohm load.

Big Dave, keep asking the questions, you'll eventually gain the knowledge you need, I've seen some pretty good replies as well. Peak power vs rms power can be explained rather simply. Your car has a speedometer, even though it says 150mph as your top speed the speed limit on your highway might be 70 (I'm Canadian, give me a break eh. We canucks have metric everything and the #1 hockey team an hour away). Anyways, if you are lucky enough not to get caught at 150mph in the 70 zone, eventually you must do the speed limit again. This is much like peak vs rms watts. A natural byproduct of producing power is heat, this is what kills speakers, not distortion or way too much power etc, these are all root causes but not the killer. Your speaker is designed to handle musical bursts of power (much like you hitting someone), like your punch, the energy is there and then it is gone (a peak). If you keep hitting this guy as hard as you can, the same thing is going to happen to him as will happen to your speaker. The voice coil in the speaker is not designed to handle the constant dissipation of the excessive heat buildup. What the speaker is designed for is to safely dissipate the heat build up under normal listening conditions (the rms rating). Can your speaker handle these short bursts of power, well most speakers can but only for a limited period of time. A better built speaker that has addressed this problem will obviousely hang in there alot longer. I hope this helps to explain the rms vs peak issue to you.

Now for Sony and why not. Sony does have some good points, they are a very large company, but can you imagine gm biulding your house? In this industry there are 3 basic categories of companies, the bottom feeders (insert brand name here), the mid fi (Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, Panasonic, Pioneer & Premier, Sony, Jvc and more) and the high end guys (Eclipse, Xtant, Mb Quart, Grundig, Focal ...) All of these companies have a marketing division, the addage of you get what you pay for generally comes true. This does not mean that you must buy only from the high end guys, just do lots of research. The majority of the products purchased is in the mid fi area, this area is driven solely by price, this is why we see Clarion of Driftwood cd players for $120.00 cdn. The marketing dept says if you build it to look like this and sell at this pricepoint, you will sell lots of them. Most but not all the mid fi guys cater  to this philosophy. For the guys that argue this point look at how the price of cd players have fallen. Some manufacturers put exaggerated claims on their equipment in order to increase sale, this I totally do not agree with as it is totally misleading and preys on the uneducated and uninformed consumer. The more you learn and become an educated and informed consumer, the more you will learn about some of these companies. At the end of the day for companies like the mid-fi guys, in order to hit the price points they need to remain competitive in their market, the cuts they make are not to their bank account or paychecks, but to the value of the equipment - price - sound quality - capabilites - performace - warranty. In order to hit the price point you must make these cuts. The high end guys go exactly the opposite way, they do not build something to hit a price point, this is why a bottom of the line Eclipse cd player sells for $399.00 cdn and is also why it sounds bettter than any other cd player. Bells and whistles in a cd player can be good if you choose to ring and blow them, unfortunately they have nothing to do with the quality of the cd player. This same addage applies to amps, subs and speakers. The mid-fi guys do have some good stuff again but generally speaking the high end guys will always win, the question is do you have the $ to spend on their products. Bmw makes some really nice cars but I don't see them making a car to compete with the Chevy Cavalier, nor do I expect them to, high end vs mid end, the same as hi-fi vs mid-fi. Lets hear your thoughts on this.

-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

kewl

thanks my man

much clearer now

i will find out the rms and will find an am that i thik is ok, then ill ask u guys
NOT a sony this time
lol

thanks again lads

BiG_DaVE

also if you want 2 reccomend the best one

WITH

high frequency inputs

that would be a big help

BiG_DaVE

-------------

How about this 1?

Has stereo input
is that the same as high frequency input?
or the input that uses the speaker out cables?

BiG_DaVE

-------------

Not recommended, but the driftwood (lol) is a step up from the Sony. This particular amp is  rated at 230watts rms at 2ohm @ 14.4v. This is an ok little amp but I think you can do better. I see your stuck on a rock, much like me on Vancouver Island, BC. I do not know of your local shops or of your imported brands available to you where you are. Do some looking around at the local shops and make a list of brands available to you where you are are we'll find an amp for you.

-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

hummmm

halfords near me!!!

or sumthing on the bass junkies site!BassJunkies

£150 below      ish?

BiG_DaVE

sumthing from bassjunkies preferably!!

BiG_DaVE

Well, on the bassjunkies web site, I would look at the JBL BP300.1 (which is what I would pick), the Alpine MRPM250 or MRPM350, or the Rockford Fosgate 301M.  From what I have read, all of these have speaker level inputs.

approve on the alpine mrpm350

MRPM350 From BassJunkies

Very nice

thanks for all of your help

everything is much clearer now :)

BiG_DaVE + SarsY

as u no wot ice i got     

would either of these XS amps be any good ????

Either of the two nearer the bottom of the page

(150 to 200 watt RMS subs)

BiG_DaVE

prefferably the 480watt

any one?

BiG_DaVE

I have never heard of that brand. If i were you I would get either the alpine you liked ot teh JBL

so thats a no the

ok lads

thanks

BiG_DaVE

hi agen lads

its been a while

caliber 260w - will it run it? 4 a while any way

BiG_DaVE