warren g speakers

forbidden wrote:

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So what are the model#s of your equipment? and ready for some bad news, your Sony amp is probably only rated at 25% of what you state, sorry for the bad news, will clarify it for you when you post up the needed info.

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i'm afraid forbidden's absolutely correct about your sony amp.....it's probably true that it's rated at 1000 watts....but 75% is heat. What does it say for RMS on this particular sony amp?....

the rms on the sony amp is 400watts . the model number for the amp is g-840 i think and the speakers are cs-wg1200. also i was in best buy and i seen a punch amp that has 1500 watts. i think it is the punch 501s. will this amp really do 1500 watts or will it only do about 500 watts

The Rockford amp will put out 1500 watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms. your subs are dual 4 ohms which means you can wire them 2 ways, either 2 ohms or 8 ohms. That Rockford amp would be just about right for what you need. Your subs are rated at 350 wats RMS each. If you wire them in series-parallel you will have a 4 ogm load and can hook it up to the 501S and get 500 watts RMS, 250 to wach sub. It would look something like this:

The 501's ratings are below
•  125 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
•  250 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
•  500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms in bridged mode
Your subs are 350 watts rms 4 Ohm DVC's
Your current Sony amp is defiantly not a good match neither is the Fosgate 501. I would suggest that you find an amp that puts out either 350 X2 @ 2 Ohm rms  or 700+ @ 4 or 1 ohm rms bridged. If you give us your budget we can recommend a good amp your subs.

I second bberman, not a good match.

 Bfog99, be careful on your advice, while all advice is usually helpful, in this case you have misquoted peak power for rms, while it may have been a simple oversight, it can lead a customer to purchase the wrong thing. The amp has a 50 amp fuse for it which will yield a result of result of approximately 720 watts in bridged mono mode, if the amp is 100% efficient. While the amp may be capable of playing a 2 ohm mono load and delivering close to 1500watts, it was not designed and engineered to operate at a 2 ohm mono load for continuous use, expect to have problems,NOT RECOMMENDED. No offence intended dude, just did not want to see someone set off on the wrong foot.

I was actually recommending a 4 ohm mono load at 500 watts. It would actually be under powering the subs a little, but it would work. I didn't say it was an exact match, but just about right. It would work.

according to besybuy.com they have a 350W RMS rating each.

someone mentioned to me in my last topic about an audio control epicenter, i found one one ebay for like 20.00 bucks but it does not have a bass knob. i have a bass knob from a kicker amp that i had and i wanted to know if that knob will work.

I love Epicenters - I've used one in every one of my personal cars since 1991.  It hooks up like an equalizer - between the head unit and the amplifier.  There are two RCA inputs, and two RCA outputs.   There's also an input for the control knob.  The control knob is connected to the main Epicenter unit by a telephone cord.  I don't know if the bass unit from a Kicker amp uses the same connection.  If not, AudioControl will sell you a new control knob for about $35.  If you can get the Epicenter on eBay for $20, and then buy the knob from AudioControl, that's still a *great* deal.  Used Epicenters with the knob usually end up going for $75-$100 on eBay.

As for what the Epicenter does, it's pretty slick.  It looks for bass notes that have been lost during the recording or transmission process.  It does this by looking for harmonics of the original note, and then calculating to see if the original note is still there.  If it's missing, it re-injects it into the music.  Here's an example:  Let's say your favourite band had a 30-Hz note in one of their songs when they performed it in the studio.  Some of it would have been lost by the microphones, some more would likely be lost during the mastering, and more will be lost when the radio station broadcasts it.  By the time it gets to your stereo, almsot all of that original 30-Hz note might have been lost, but there will be harmonics remaining at 60 Hz, 90 Hz, 120 Hz, etcetera.  The Epicenter can re-create the original note from the harmonics and put it back in the music.

The control knob tells the Epicenter how hard to look for harmonics, and how loud to make the re-created notes.  So, the Epicenter is more than just a bass booster, but it can raise your max dB a significant amount, and if you get silly with the control knob, it can turn a Beach Boys song into a trunk-rattler!

Scott Gardner

Do not use any other knob other than the Audio Control piece, even though they look the same and plug in the same, the electronics inside are usually drastically different. The Epicenter goes into the signal path before the amplifier, unplug the rca's from the sub amp and plug into the input on the Epicenter, output from Epicenter back to amplifier. Some Epicenters also use a line driver in them (another nice toy!), you may have to turn the gain on your amp down (a good thing).

JL3gEclipse, no, not always. There are a lot of other determining factors in output of subs other than cabin gain. ie: Ported or sealed box, type of music played, surface area of the drivers, throw of the drivers, efficency of the subs, effeciency of the amp, are the vehicle the same..... A nice example of this was a camaro we recently did with 1 10" MB Quart refence RWC254, 1 1.25 cu.ft. ported box (slot port 1 x 6 x 7") driven from a Lightning Audio B350.1 (really nice sub - OK amp) It hit 138.9 db in the first contest he entered, and handed alot of dual 12" drivers their walking papers. So it is not always the number of brand of anything or how many watts, it is how the equipment is matched together and used.

One thing I forgot to mention about the Epicenter.  It needs to see the full audio spectrum to look for harmonics, so be sure to feed it with a full-range RCA input, not a low-pass input.  The best thing to do is go full-range from the deck to the Epicenter, and then either use an external low-pass crossover or the low-pass crossover in your sub, if you have one.

Scott Gardner