wiring questions
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=23887
Printed Date: May 10, 2025 at 1:57 AM
Topic: wiring questions
Posted By: boomer_106
Subject: wiring questions
Date Posted: January 04, 2004 at 2:17 AM
Ok I havent messed with any newer vehicles. I have installed plenty of amps, radios, eq etc but, I always changed the factory head unit when doing so. 1.Do the newer vehicles in my case a 2002 Silverado still use the old commond ground system for the speaker wiring? I am going to be installing a set of MB quart separates in the front doors and a sub and an amp or two. My amp doesnt accept hi level inputs so I guess Im going to have to get a line output converter. 2. Where would be the best place to wire this in at? The head unit I assume? I hate to splice into the factory wiring but, I guess Im going to have to cause a harness would not plug back into the factory radio. 3. Also where do you get a remote turn on wire when the factory head doesnt supply one? Id appreciate any info. Thank you
Replies:
Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: January 04, 2004 at 2:52 AM
1.They haven't used common ground setups for a long time. So you won't have to worry about that. I'm not a big fan of using hi/lo converters because of the noise it causes. The hiss is very annoying. I'm sure you will be adding a factory unit soon after. 2. Well you can get the signal from the rear speakers, but you still have to tap into the front speaker wires. This is much easier to do at the factory radio, and you might as well run wire there to get your signal as well. 3. You can tap it into the ignition wire on the vehicle (or accessory). That way the amplifier will be on when the vehicle is on. The only downfall to this is that your amplifier will still be on when you are driving and turn off the radio. That has only caused one problem that I know of, but only if you are getting the signal from factory powered speakers. If you have the radio off but ignition on and you close a door, this can move the factory speakers you are gettting the signal from. Their voice coil will produce a signal that will get amplified through the sub amp, then get played by the sub, which will then move those factory speakers even more, and so on. This will produce a growing hum from the sub. -------------
Posted By: boomer_106
Date Posted: January 05, 2004 at 12:03 AM
Steven thanks for the replies. I never turn the radio off while driving. If I need to quiet things down I would just turn the volume all the way down. You think I will still have this hum? How bad does the hiss get from hi lo converters? I really dont want to replace the factory head because it matches the dash so well. What if I found amps that accepted hi level inputs ? What problems do you forsee then? Hasnt anyone done this? Id love to hear your experiences with keeping factory heads and adding amps and subs. All replies welcome Thanks alot. Boomer
Posted By: LittleBill
Date Posted: January 05, 2004 at 1:13 AM
never delt with a high low converter, i had a 98 cav, ran 3 amps and front rear speakers, subs off high level input, i used the stock deck just loved the way the deck looked and i still used tapes at the time, the high level sounded fine, no hiss ever, sounded very good till i dropped in a different deck, only thing i will say is the factory deck introduced noise into the system i had a low level alt whine, but turn the deck up 3 click u couldn't hear it anymore, aftermarket deck completely illiminated this noise, i ran a relay off the battery and tapped into the iginition wire off deck wires, for my remote turn on as said above, only problem i had was when shutting off the car, i would sometimes i get a pop in the system, other then that it worked flawless for like 1 1/2 years
Posted By: LittleBill
Date Posted: January 05, 2004 at 1:16 AM
only thing now adays that uses common grounds for speakers that i know off are 2 channel decks used in international school busses, the system sucks anyway we endup grounding the speakers to the deck anymore
Posted By: TonyPTX
Date Posted: January 07, 2004 at 8:52 PM
Here are a few options.... If you like the stock look and know you're going to be replacing the head unit, there are a few companies that make HU's to fit the GM opening... https://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-eUbzX3YJjIT/ProdGroup.asp?c=3&g=52500&s=0&cc=01&avf=N&search= 2. If you don't like splicing the factory wiring, use a wiring harness kit from Scosche. They sell "reverse" kits that plug into factory radios. So pick up two harnesses. One that fits your factory radio a la "reverse kit" and one that fits the factory wiring harness. Then you connect the two harnesses and splice inbetween :) 3. Like everyone suggested, pick up something that is on via the ignition or accessory lead. Many autoparts stores sell a "Add a Circuit" jumper that you can plug into a fuse box and wire it up to the ignition/acc. buss then run the lead to the amp. An alterternative is to buy a new amp with high-level inputs and "Auto Smart" turn on features where you don't have to run any Remote On line. Tony
Posted By: boomer_106
Date Posted: January 08, 2004 at 12:04 AM
Tony thank you for your replies. I did get a suggestion from a tech at autosoundgear.com to use the two wiring harness thing so Im going to do that. He also said my factory head already has a remote turn on wire he said it was pink the 9 pin connecter. Im not sure why I have no factory amp or power antenna but, when I get in there I will use my meter and verify. I hope hes right that would be great. I havent seen any amps with auto turn on. Maybe they just dont advertise that well. Then again since i have amps I havent paid alot of attention to the newest models. Thanks again. All ideas are welcome
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